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Oil in new build

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Bold & Old

Deceased, But not forgotton
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My hemi has not run in over a year since the new rebuild and dyno.

I always turned the engine a 1/4 turn daily.

Will I need at some point have to do a tear down the top end or at best pour oil over the rockers before it is started again.

The engine may not be started for another year or more.

Willin to listen to some good advise!

Thanks Guys
 
You will want to prime the oil pump with an electric drill while turning the crankshaft over 2 complete revolutions. That will oil all the rocker shafts.

it is pretty easy to do and WELL worth the effort to do.

DO NOT SPIN IT OVER WITH THE STARTER! Please stop posting that stupid lazy idea!

Just do it right, and pouring oil over the top of rockers doesn’t do anything. If you can’t handle removing and installing the distributor and drive gear with out help then just sell all the old cars and buy a new one with warranty.
 
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Yep when I got my Bee it sat for 2 years so I pulled the distributor and primed it. Set timing and fired her up.
 
What you all are saying that the crank bearings and rod bearings are OK waiting that long with brake-in oil.

OK.... so if I pull the valve covers and lube the rockers.... this should work the same way as pulling the distributor..... of course the galleys wont have any oil at this point?

My engine is not installed in the engine bay at this point so it would be easier to do pull the covers.

I really do not want to mess with the distributor timing period...... until it is in running condition.

Just looking for a easier fix..... but I like hearing options from you all....

Thanks guys
 
Pulling the distributor and oil pump drive is the best way to prime it. Only other suggestion would be to pull all the plugs and spin it with the starter until you see oil pressure. <30 seconds typically.
If the engine was dyno run and still has the oil in it, I would just fire it. It’s ready primed and lubed. Cars have sat longer than a year and weren’t re-primed.
Any of my new builds I prime on the stand and I usually install and fire them within a month of that.
 
69L48Z27 said:
Pulling the distributor and oil pump drive is the best way to prime it. Only other suggestion would be to pull all the plugs and spin it with the starter until you see oil pressure. <30 seconds typically.
If the engine was dyno run and still has the oil in it, I would just fire it. It’s ready primed and lubed. Cars have sat longer than a year and weren’t re-primed.
Any of my new builds I prime on the stand and I usually install and fire them within a month of that.
Click to expand...

Cool........ Being it is a hemi.... I do not want to mess it up.

that's what I going to do... Thank you sir
 
Bold & Old said:
Cool........ Being it is a hemi.... I do not want to mess it up.

that's what I going to do... Thank you sir
Click to expand...
One other thing... call the shop who built it/dyno’ed it and see what they say too.
 
Bold & Old said:
What you all are saying that the crank bearings and rod bearings are OK waiting that long with brake-in oil.

OK.... so if I pull the valve covers and lube the rockers.... this should work the same way as pulling the distributor..... of course the galleys wont have any oil at this point?

My engine is not installed in the engine bay at this point so it would be easier to do pull the covers.

I really do not want to mess with the distributor timing period...... until it is in running condition.

Just looking for a easier fix..... but I like hearing options from you all....
There is the right way to do things, and there is the half assed way to do things. Set your engine to the top dead center (-0-) timing mark on the compression stroke. Then mark the distributor and block with a sharpie so you can put it back in in the same position and then pull the distributor and prime the engine properly before starting it. That will ensure ALL moving parts have the proper lubrication and the oil filter is full of oil.

Thanks guys
Click to expand...
Bold & Old said:
What you all are saying that the crank bearings and rod bearings are OK waiting that long with brake-in oil.

OK.... so if I pull the valve covers and lube the rockers.... this should work the same way as pulling the distributor..... of course the galleys wont have any oil at this point?

My engine is not installed in the engine bay at this point so it would be easier to do pull the covers.

I really do not want to mess with the distributor timing period...... until it is in running condition.

Just looking for a easier fix..... but I like hearing options from you all....

Thanks guys
Click to expand...
There is the right way to do things, and there is the half assed way to do things. Set your engine to the top dead center (-0-) timing mark on the compression stroke. Then mark the distributor and block with a sharpie so you can put it back in, in the same position and then pull the distributor and prime the engine properly before starting it. That will ensure ALL moving parts have the proper lubrication and the oil filter is full of oil. Also after priming the engine recheck the dipstick to make sure the oil level is correct.
 
Don’t worry about it just take it to someone that’s experienced just sounds like you wouldn’t know what to do if something went wrong
Let them know you want to be there and video it they won’t tend to take shortcuts then
 
wvmarv said:
There is the right way to do things, and there is the half assed way to do things. Set your engine to the top dead center (-0-) timing mark on the compression stroke. Then mark the distributor and block with a sharpie so you can put it back in, in the same position and then pull the distributor and prime the engine properly before starting it. That will ensure ALL moving parts have the proper lubrication and the oil filter is full of oil. Also after priming the engine recheck the dipstick to make sure the oil level is correct.
Click to expand...

I have rebuilt many engines in my past... this is the first engine built by a pro.

The value of the engine is what sets this engine apart from previous builds + lots of $$$ involved.

The last time I rebuilt a motor was 20+ years ago. I tend to lean towards common sense knowing I may be not as sharp at 75 and this is my first Mopar.

I ask for help because a think tank and ways that may have evolved to a better solutions.

I am lucky to still have all my marbles to take on such a task of another car project.

I also do not have all the tools at my disposal like I once had ...

What you are saying is correct and I am aware of it... I am sure I will do it will do it correctly.

I thank you for your perspective
 
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"The engine may not be started for another year or more."

Ship that sucker over here! I will drive the piss out of it and you won't have to worry about cobwebs in the motor.
 
Mark Barnes said:
"The engine may not be started for another year or more."

Ship that sucker over here! I will drive the piss out of it and you won't have to worry about cobwebs in the motor.
Click to expand...


repeat the following verse as fast as you can 10 times

I am not a fig plucker but a fig pluckers son

but i will pluck figs til the fig plucker comes.:lol:
 
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Tools needed:

1/2” wrench
12” Long straight slot screwdriver
Needle nose pliers
1/2” or 3/4” drive ratchet or breaker bar
1 1/4” socket

You CAN do this with our help. If not then quit now.
This is an easy task, and you said how much money you have in it. Do it right.

And please stop turning the engine 1/4 turn every day, it’s not necessary. One and one quarter crank revolution per month is just fine.
 
R413 said:
Tools needed:

1/2” wrench
12” Long straight slot screwdriver
Needle nose pliers
1/2” or 3/4” drive ratchet or breaker bar
1 1/4” socket

You CAN do this with our help. If not then quit now.
This is an easy task, and you said how much money you have in it. Do it right.

And please stop turning the engine 1/4 turn every day, it’s not necessary. One and one quarter crank revolution per month is just fine.
Click to expand...
Please, oh please tell us from where this sage advice was gleaned...
 
Working in the auto repair industry and into old cars all my life. Drag racing and sharing info.

You turn the crank on a stored engine to open and close different valves. You go more than one revolution so it’s not the same valves open and closed every other time you turn it. Remember two crankshaft revolutions for one camshaft revolution.

On a hemi you cannot take the rocker arms off without affecting head gasket sealing. (There is a type of rocker stand that allows you to remover rocker shafts on a hemi but I don’t know what the name is or if he has them). On most other stored engines you take off the rocker arms or shafts so all valves are closed.
 
if I had a hemi i'm storing for 2 years i'd build a stand with a battery and a key switch and radiator just so I could hear beautiful thunder every month
 
Nevada dan said:
if I had a hemi i'm storing for 2 years i'd build a stand with a battery and a key switch and radiator just so I could hear beautiful thunder every month
Click to expand...

like this? just might do that....:thumbsup:

3 21 20.jpg
 
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R413 said:
Working in the auto repair industry and into old cars all my life. Drag racing and sharing info.

You turn the crank on a stored engine to open and close different valves. You go more than one revolution so it’s not the same valves open and closed every other time you turn it. Remember two crankshaft revolutions for one camshaft revolution.

On a hemi you cannot take the rocker arms off without affecting head gasket sealing. (There is a type of rocker stand that allows you to remover rocker shafts on a hemi but I don’t know what the name is or if he has them). On most other stored engines you take off the rocker arms or shafts so all valves are closed.
Click to expand...

I recently spoke to the builder of the engine and having the dyno at the time he told me to just pull the plugs and fog it with fogging oil in each cylinder.... then pull the coil wire and turn it over with starter (about 20 seconds) until the oil pressure comes up on my exterior pressure gauge.

Thanks to all for great ideas.....

its nice to have a broad group of experienced motor-heads. :luvplace:
 
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