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Headlight switch diagnosis

megaivtes

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so in a previous thread, my alt was putting out too much voltage. I've since fixed this issue.
I'm assuming the high volt. may have messed with my headlight switch. I previously had taken it out to try and "clean" it up due to intermittent issues. I swapped many of the instrument dash bulbs to LED's and they functioned.
Now I have no lights at dash and one headlight out. I'm assuming the switch could be at fault for the dash lights? I didn't see a way to test in service manual.
 
What kind of car and year? Does your car have two or four headlights? First thing to check with one headlight working one out is the headlight that is out and the ground for that headlight. It is not possible for the headlight switch to cause one headlight to be out and the other on. Both headlights run off of the same source of power, so if one is working and the other is not, it is the lamp, the ground for that lamp, or the wire between the lamps. Which headlight is out driver or passenger? The usual problem area for dash lights is not the headlight switch, but the dimmer switch. Corrosion or the coil of resistance wire breaking are common problems with the dimmer
 
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67 satellite. I'm sure headlight issue is bulb. I pulled the switch out previously to try and clean any corrosion on the dimmer. I'll check it again. Come to think of it, I don't think the overhead light came on either...so maybe the switch failed?
Headlight dimmer works fine.
 
Come to think of it, I don't think the overhead light came on either...so maybe the switch failed?
Headlight dimmer works fine.
The headlight switch has nothing to do with the interior lights. They operate no matter what position the headlight switch is in. They are operated by the door jamb switches. Are you referring to the headlight hi/lo switch or the dashboard light dimmer?
 
refering to the dashboard headlight switch/dimmer.
Lo beam on one side burnt out. Hi beams work.
My issue is no dash lights with combo of new and old dash bulbs.
 
Your dimmer switch is an essential piece in the electrical system of your Mopar. If it has not been correctly restored, it WILL cause problems to include a burnt down car. The resistance wire gets very hot if the internal connections are not compressed well and the original potting compound that the wire is set in from the factory is brittle and WILL come apart. Please make sure that this component is in excellent working order. There are a couple of gauge and switch restoration specialist on here. I have done hundreds of these for customers. If you have questions, please ask.
ps: if you buy a repop chinese switch, expect it to not function consistently and accurately.

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yes, fuse checked.
Steve, understood. I'm going to pull my switch again to inspect. Looks like this..
s-l1600.jpg
 
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