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383 vs 440 Down the Road...

Going back to what is presented to be the OP's original question:
P-38Sam said:
Down the road, say both maintained to be same condition 20years down the road, is the 440 of driver quality a better car to buy than a better condition 383?
Sam
Click to expand...
The question is fundamentally flawed - he first states that both of his representative vehicles are in the "same
condition", then says one is "driver quality" and the other is in "better condition".
That doesn't make sense...one is not the "same" as the other to begin with, according to his description of each.

I'm trying to understand what the actual question is here.
Is the OP trying to make the argument that original 440 cars shouldn't be thought of in the hobby as "better"
than their 383 cousins?
What's the premise here?
 
My answer is: buy what you like & not think or worry what it's worth 20 years down the road. Buy as good condition as possible.
 
Depends on the car I guess. When I see a 1969 Road Runner or Super Bee with a 440 swapped in place of the 383 I lose interest in it for some reason. The engine swap seems to take away from the original soul for some reason. A 383 Charger with a swapped in 440 doesn't bother me.
 
They are always worth what someone is willing to pay for them.. beauty is truly in the eye of the beholder. No more no less. It all depends on the car and your taste.
 
moparedtn said:
Going back to what is presented to be the OP's original question:

The question is fundamentally flawed - he first states that both of his representative vehicles are in the "same
condition", then says one is "driver quality" and the other is in "better condition".
That doesn't make sense...one is not the "same" as the other to begin with, according to his description of each.

I'm trying to understand what the actual question is here.
Is the OP trying to make the argument that original 440 cars shouldn't be thought of in the hobby as "better"
than their 383 cousins?
What's the premise here?
Click to expand...
I think you're over reading it:

...maintained in the same condition (as bought). i.e. a slightly better 383 car vs. a slightly worse 440 car, but they fundamentally stay in the same condition for the 20 years.

That's the way I read it at least...
 
HawkRod said:
Maybe I have it wrong, but I feel like the OP is asking more about the value of the car 20 years down the road rather than performance between a 383 and 440 car.

Assuming numbers correct, as optioned cars when built, I believe 440 cars will continue to be valued more than 383 equipped cars. They are less common and therefore cost more. Once an engine has been changed in the car, then all bets are off. For example, I don't believe a 383 car with a 440 transplanted in it is worth more than the original 383 equipped car.
Click to expand...
You're probably totally correct, but then, why does everyone (including certified Mopar guys) ask if my engine is a 440 when they weren't available in '68 Bee's? Lol
 
oldbee said:
You're probably totally correct, but then, why does everyone (including certified Mopar guys) ask if my engine is a 440 when they weren't available in '68 Bee's? Lol
Click to expand...
It sort of supports the whole "440 is perceived as the better engine" argument, if you think about it....
but yes, that's a very prevalent mistaken assumption amongst the unwashed masses. :)
 
HawkRod said:
I think you're over reading it:

...maintained in the same condition (as bought). i.e. a slightly better 383 car vs. a slightly worse 440 car, but they fundamentally stay in the same condition for the 20 years.

That's the way I read it at least...
Click to expand...
I believe you're correct about what the OP was trying to ask (or even state - a lot of personal opinion is first
stated as sort of a question these days, after all).
However, again at its' root - "better" does not equal "same" in any language.
The two are mutually exclusive terms.

Again....if the OP is actually asking a question here, he needs to rephrase it.
If not, then he shouldn't present personal opinion as a rhetorical question at all, eh?
 
There is an alternative to 383 vs 440? Or B-block vs RB to be more specific? Why not combine? Take the B-block Chrysler 400. Largest bore block Chrysler ever produced for production. Combine with the longest stroke crankshaft Chrysler ever produced for production. The RB 3.75". (Crankshaft will need machining to accommodate smaller 400 bearings. Thus counter weights also machined to balance.) Add a .035 over bore? And you have the now classic 451.

I'm a big fan and believer in this setup. Because you truly get the best of both worlds. The spin and RPM of the short deck B-block with the torque of the RB Block. You can do the same with a 383 block. You end up with about 19 fewer cubes than 400 at 432. (Depending on final bore size)

The reason for the performance increase besides a little more cubes? (If one over bores a 440 .060? You also get 451 cubic inch. But the B-block 451 will out perform the RB 451.) Is because the shorter block deck height means shorter (Thus lighter) internal rotating parts. Using same connecting 6.7" rods. The piston height needs to be shorter. Thus lighter. Pushrods are shorter. The smaller 400 bearings produce less heat. Thus less rotating drag. All in a package that is about 60+ lbs lighter in the engine bay than standard 440. Both use same heads.

The draw backs? An aftermarket piston is needed. Thus $$. And. In an ultimate build to biggest cubes possible? The RB 440 block will win. Because of taller deck height. It can be stroked higher. Thus ultimately retaining more cubic inches. But that would need custom aftermarket rods/crank and pistons. Much bigger bucks.

This is an ugly description why the B-block 451 was and still is sought and admired. I have one in my '74 index drag race Duster. I call it "The big block that thinks it's a small block."

ZomboDroid 27062021135616.jpg
 
I'll take a 383 over a 440. The 440 is too big for the top end as in not enough head.
head to head a 383 Roadrunner will walk all over a standard 440.
 
fishmens67 said:
I'll take a 383 over a 440. The 440 is too big for the top end as in not enough head.
head to head a 383 Roadrunner will walk all over a standard 440.
Click to expand...

I guess anything is possible? Neither my 383 RR or my 383 Sport Satellite from yester year could hang long with my 440 GTX. My first 440 GTX was quicker thru the gears than my current. But current would run down all my big blocks back then all because taller rear tire. Which does change gear performance.
 
Hi Guys,
Thank you for all the input. I will do my best to test drive some cars. Some places (dealers) won't let you drive the car until late in the purchase process. Guess too many knucke-heads have gone in and ruined cars. I'll look for a private seller to test drive a 383 and 440 (if possible) to compare.

I just wasn't sure if people are less looking at cars with 383's and mostly looking at 440's. Some 440 cars I've seen look like they just gone done racing a full season and crashed twice. But, value is similar to a nice car but with a 383. But, sounds like if you have a nice car, but 383, it doesn't really matter.

Thanks again for all of the input. I appreciate the responses.
Sam
 
khryslerkid said:
I've owned several "R" blocks, 383s and now own a "RB" 440. 383s have been very dependable for me and have plenty of get up and go. They really rev up quickly and have good power.

The 440 is a real powerhouse with unreal torque. There seems to be no top end to it compared to the 383. Not putting down a 383 one bit, I'd own another one in a heartbeat. It's just a noticeable difference between the two in this sense but they both are dependable power plants.
Click to expand...
440 is the torque monster.
 
It’s a silly question and it is way more complicated than 383 verses 440. Determine what you can or want to spend and buy the car you like and what you plan to do with it.
 
P-38Sam said:
Hi Guys,
Thank you for all the input. I will do my best to test drive some cars. Some places (dealers) won't let you drive the car until late in the purchase process. Guess too many knucke-heads have gone in and ruined cars. I'll look for a private seller to test drive a 383 and 440 (if possible) to compare.

I just wasn't sure if people are less looking at cars with 383's and mostly looking at 440's. Some 440 cars I've seen look like they just gone done racing a full season and crashed twice. But, value is similar to a nice car but with a 383. But, sounds like if you have a nice car, but 383, it doesn't really matter.

Thanks again for all of the input. I appreciate the responses.
Sam
Click to expand...
In the end, my advice is to buy the best car period. Either engine will give you ample enjoyment, each
with its' own attributes - but the advice when getting into one of these cars is always the same:
Buy all the car you can afford (in other words, the one needing the least attention and is most sorted out).
Good luck and let us know what you get!:thumbsup:
 
oldbee said:
You're probably totally correct, but then, why does everyone (including certified Mopar guys) ask if my engine is a 440 when they weren't available in '68 Bee's? Lol
Click to expand...

Don’t feel bad - when I take my 67 GTX to a cruise night most people ask “what engine - a 383? I kind of have to bite my tongue before replying politely. I mean it has 440 on the air cleaner and hood ornament and most of these spectators are supposed to be car guys at some level. Always a mystery.
 
AR67GTX said:
Don’t feel bad - when I take my 67 GTX to a cruise night most people ask “what engine - a 383? I kind of have to bite my tongue before replying politely. I mean it has 440 on the air cleaner and hood ornament and most of these spectators are supposed to be car guys at some level. Always a mystery.
Click to expand...
I too have politely explained that a 383 was never an option for GTX. But at least that crowd had the manufacturer correct. I still have to explain the difference between GTX and GTO to many.
 
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