• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

2007 Ram: Replace the engine or replace the truck ?

Photon440 said:
Have you done a compression test? I'd find out what's up with the coolant issue, if it's something like a head gasket, just fix it. As for oil, how much? If it's going through oil but not smoking, then the cost of topping it up will be a lot less than getting a used engine. Actually, if the cylinder bores are still good, you could put on rebuilt cylinder heads and solve both problems. You mentioned transmission, is that acting up too?
Click to expand...
It has always used oil but has increased in the past year. It uses something like a quart per 1000 miles sometimes. Yeah, it has started smoking too. It drips from the oil pan onto the exhaust pipe and I can smell oil burning when I park. It rarely leaves an oil spot on the pavement. The coolant loss is still hard to pinpoint but there is some wetness around the front of the engine at times. I can loosen the radiator cap after the truck sits a day or so and it does hold pressure.
 
Ray70Chrg said:
Remanufactured engine and transmissions. Find reputable company in your area and look into having them installed together, unless you think you can handle the job.
Click to expand...

I just talked to my Machinist. He is familiar with the 5.7 engines. I'm thinking of looking for a lower mileage core to take to him. I'll probably have him disassemble, inspect and assess what it will need. I may even have him assemble it.

DeltaV said:
Which colors do you prefer?
Click to expand...

I know that I sound picky but I am tired of seeing the same 3 colors all the time. My first 1500 was Flame red. My second one was medium blue. This 2007 is Inferno Red. I don't want yellow, most of the blue colors aren't my style and I don't care for brown, green or the others.

zyzzyx said:
Living in the rust belt, I envy all of you in climates that don't eat away all of the
sheet metal! You can replace all of the major components and not worry about
the body falling down around you!
Click to expand...

That is the thing...The frame is clean and dry. The body has a few small nicks and dings. I could have the body ready for paint in a day. A 3 day weekend would be all I'd need to freshen up the body and paint. This truck is the Devil that I know.
The appeal of the 2009 and later trucks is the HP increase from 345 to 395. They added VVT (Variable Valve Timing) in 2009. I am thinking of changing the axle gearing from 3.55 to a 3.92 or a 4.10. I may also use a slightly bigger cam. The VVT engines and their associated wiring don't directly fit the 2003-2008 trucks so I am limited there.

02 Ram 10.jpg


06.JPG


Ram A 5 (2).jpg
 
How does your insurance work? If you spend $5k or $7k repowering this truck and it gets stolen the next day does your insurance company just give you blue book on a truck with 400,000 miles?
 
Kern Dog said:
.

The VVT engines and their associated wiring don't directly fit the 2003-2008 trucks so I am limited there.
Click to expand...

Does the rest of the wiring work? Comp sells a VVT Cam Phaser Lock Kit for less than $100... Don't know nothing about the feasibility just tossing it out there...

Like I mentioned before, not a big fan of most reman engines... And I worked in the trade, seen/installed plenty of them.... I'd much rather put in a low mileage wrecking yard engine...
 
Reasons to go with whatever engine build that strikes your fancy @Kern Dog:
  1. Truck prices, new or used, are sky high and the dealers aren't budging (much).
  2. The economy is going to hit a "correction" sooner than later.
  3. World events are particularly uncertain right now.
  4. You like your truck!
Enjoy a rejuvenated truck and save your money for a rainy day (in Tennessee:D).
 
Kern Dog said:
I just talked to my Machinist. He is familiar with the 5.7 engines. I'm thinking of looking for a lower mileage core to take to him. I'll probably have him disassemble, inspect and assess what it will need. I may even have him assemble it.



I know that I sound picky but I am tired of seeing the same 3 colors all the time. My first 1500 was Flame red. My second one was medium blue. This 2007 is Inferno Red. I don't want yellow, most of the blue colors aren't my style and I don't care for brown, green or the others.



That is the thing...The frame is clean and dry. The body has a few small nicks and dings. I could have the body ready for paint in a day. A 3 day weekend would be all I'd need to freshen up the body and paint. This truck is the Devil that I know.
The appeal of the 2009 and later trucks is the HP increase from 345 to 395. They added VVT (Variable Valve Timing) in 2009. I am thinking of changing the axle gearing from 3.55 to a 3.92 or a 4.10. I may also use a slightly bigger cam. The VVT engines and their associated wiring don't directly fit the 2003-2008 trucks so I am limited there.

View attachment 1155204

View attachment 1155205

View attachment 1155206
Click to expand...


Must pass SMOG test, or is there none in Granite Bay?
 
1 Wild R/T said:
Does the rest of the wiring work? Comp sells a VVT Cam Phaser Lock Kit for less than $100... Don't know nothing about the feasibility just tossing it out there...

Like I mentioned before, not a big fan of most reman engines... And I worked in the trade, seen/installed plenty of them.... I'd much rather put in a low mileage wrecking yard engine...
Click to expand...
I have read bad reviews on the motor mill shops like Jasper. I have no intention of using them. A buddy of mine, a notorious cheap ***, just bought a remanufactured 5.7 for some bullshit low price. He is so proud of himself, too. I am waiting to see how long the Harbor Freight rebuild lasts before smoking or blowing up.
No, my intention is to have my trusted machinist go through a good core. He has been my go-to guy for every engine I've built except ONE when he was taking a LONG vacation. That ONE 440 that I had machined elsewhere threw a rod split a cylinder!

Runcharger said:
How does your insurance work? If you spend $5k or $7k repowering this truck and it gets stolen the next day does your insurance company just give you blue book on a truck with 400,000 miles?
Click to expand...

I am not sure of what they would cover. My best guess is that if it is in a condition that is far greater than average, they might pay accordingly but certainly not a dollar for dollar coverage.
 
MIKESPOLARA said:
Must pass SMOG test, or is there none in Granite Bay?
Click to expand...
The smog test here is simple. They check the computer for codes and if there are none present, as long as the vehicle produces no visible smoke, it passes. Oh, yeah, it must have the factory emission equipment in place. It is all stock now except for a cold air kit.
The thought of a slightly bigger cam is in keeping with maintaining compliance with the emission testing.
 
Kern Dog said:
I have read bad reviews on the motor mill shops like Jasper. I have no intention of using them. A buddy of mine, a notorious cheap ***, just bought a remanufactured 5.7 for some bullshit low price. He is so proud of himself, too. I am waiting to see how long the Harbor Freight rebuild lasts before smoking or blowing up.
Click to expand...

I worked mostly dealership & some time working for the manufacturer... Not to impressed with "Factory Authorized Remanufactured" (read $$$$) rebuilds either...

I was involved with only one Jasper install... One was all I needed... Customer insisted... Engine was a POS... Threw a rod in less than 10K...
 
Over at Yellowbullet, there was a thread on these places. Some of the responses were surprising.
Engines with some cylinders bored over, some left stock....different sized pistons in the same engine.
Extensive use of "seasoned" parts like valvesprings and lifters.
Screw all that. Every engine I have rebuilt has held together except that one 440...My machinist magnafluxes all the rods and the shop I used that one time only did it upon request.

Having Rick in my corner gives me confidence that the engine will last.
 
I would look for a good core motor to rebuild while still driving your truck. You might even find a wreck that you can buy reasonably with all the good usable parts. They want an arm and a leg in the junk yards for high mile motors.
 
I just talked to a man that said they get $550 for their core engines. This was a full service wrecking yard that specializes in trucks.
These 5.7s have been trickling into the self serve yards but with the electronic speedometers, there is no way to tell the mileage on the trucks. They pull the batteries before the vehicles reach the yard. On special events, you can get a complete engine at the self serve yards for $200 plus their BS core charges on everything.
With classic 318s, 360s and 440s, I'd just expect to have to go through them or at least re-gasket them. I'd check rod and main bearings, look at the spark plugs for oil fouling and see if the engine spins freely.
With the stories I've heard of valve seats coming loose, broken valve springs and lifter failure from excessive idling, I need to be a bit more careful picking a core. I'm guessing that these engines use torque-to-yield head bolts. That means buying new ones for a rebuild. MLS head gaskets are nothing new. I have them on my 440/493.
 
Iffin were me (and of course, given my particular situation), I would fetch a Mopar crate engine (reputed to be
not much more/even a little less than aftermarket rebuilt ones) and a quality rebuilt transmission together.
Those things have a 100k warranty, or they used to I think?
 
Kern Dog said:
I just talked to a man that said they get $550 for their core engines. This was a full service wrecking yard that specializes in trucks.
These 5.7s have been trickling into the self serve yards but with the electronic speedometers, there is no way to tell the mileage on the trucks. They pull the batteries before the vehicles reach the yard. On special events, you can get a complete engine at the self serve yards for $200 plus their BS core charges on everything.
With classic 318s, 360s and 440s, I'd just expect to have to go through them or at least re-gasket them. I'd check rod and main bearings, look at the spark plugs for oil fouling and see if the engine spins freely.
With the stories I've heard of valve seats coming loose, broken valve springs and lifter failure from excessive idling, I need to be a bit more careful picking a core. I'm guessing that these engines use torque-to-yield head bolts. That means buying new ones for a rebuild. MLS head gaskets are nothing new. I have them on my 440/493.
Click to expand...
I would try to cherry pick one. Do a tear down and evaluate what is there. Then decide on the best avenue. Get the heads fully serviced [seats, guides, valves, springs.], most likely the block will need to be bored. Get the crank checked and cut if needed. Rods should be checked and refurbished as needed. Once you get all that done you will know what pistons, rings, bearings to get. Oil pump, timing set, cam, lifters and gaskets. No doubt it will add up but you will know what you have when done. Plus you can keep driving your truck until it is ready to go in.
 
One also has to be careful on what years fit. There are some differences but I am not up on the gen 3 stuff. Esp when you need it to meet emissions.
 
The 2003-2008 5.7 engines are the compatible ones whether they are from a car, truck or Jeep. The differences are in the accessory locations, dipstick, manifolds and whether or not it has MDS. All of that can be changed. A truck engine core would make the most sense because then I could have a complete engine to swap over. A car engine has a different oil pan and pickup. Not a deal breaker though since I could just use my existing stuff after a thorough cleaning.
 
I have a 2007 5.9. Runs tip top (knock on wood).
I’d take it to a diesel shop and get an estimate for repairs. Probably blown head gasket. Probably good time to do injectors, turbo and maybe freshen up the trans. Beats a $600 a month truck payment.

FIW. A buddy in Glendale has a 06 2wd 5.7 with 160k miles he’s considering selling.
 
This is a gas engine....NO turbochargers on these, man!


In California, ANY "tune" or non stock equipment raises red flags unless it is approved. Vehicles with a "tune" in the PCM history also can be trouble.
Because of this, I am considering a rebuild with a longer stroke crank. Stock is 3.58 like a traditional 360 or the 5.9 Magnum series. The most common longer stroke is 4.05 if I recall correctly. This adds something like 45 cubic inches. With the 2003-2008 making 1 HP per inch, this equates to roughly a 45 HP increase along with torque.
The appeal of this is that the engine car idle like stock, look like stock but make more power.
The question IS.....Would the fuel injectors keep up? Is there enough "range" in the PCM tuning to accommodate the additional demand? Would there be a risk of any MIL (Check Engine) codes?
 
6.1 injectors will handle the extra cubes.
 
Kern Dog said:
This is a gas engine....NO turbochargers on these, man!


In California, ANY "tune" or non stock equipment raises red flags unless it is approved. Vehicles with a "tune" in the PCM history also can be trouble.
Because of this, I am considering a rebuild with a longer stroke crank. Stock is 3.58 like a traditional 360 or the 5.9 Magnum series. The most common longer stroke is 4.05 if I recall correctly. This adds something like 45 cubic inches. With the 2003-2008 making 1 HP per inch, this equates to roughly a 45 HP increase along with torque.
The appeal of this is that the engine car idle like stock, look like stock but make more power.
The question IS.....Would the fuel injectors keep up? Is there enough "range" in the PCM tuning to accommodate the additional demand? Would there be a risk of any MIL (Check Engine) codes?
Click to expand...



They don't do a tail pipe sniff on a dyno? The change in stroke WILL change the tail pipe sniff test
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Kern Dog
Towing with a Ram 1500 regular cab short bed
2 3
Replies
41
Views
2K
Nevada dan
Nevada dan
70ChargerRT
Buying my first brand new truck since 2002.
2
Replies
26
Views
1K
70ChargerRT
70ChargerRT
padam
  • Poll
Truck Cap Good or Bad
2
Replies
24
Views
1K
YY1
YY1
OH71RRunner
1999 Ram 46RE HELP!!!
Replies
10
Views
765
gtx6970
gtx6970
jprather
Whats it worth ? 96 Dodge Indy pace truck
Replies
9
Views
977
RemCharger
RemCharger
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top