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Front/Rear subframe connectors. Best that DON'T require welding to floorpans? I'm WELDING mine in!!

snakeoil24 said:
If you flush the 2x3 stock to under side of pan and flange the sides of 2x3 stock you extend the spot welded surface and layer the material ten times more strength by spot welding un cut floor pan to the 2x3 stock.
Click to expand...
Not making a 600 fold blade here just a car frame.
 
70chall440 said:
I weld all of mine to the floor, to me it makes for a far more solid/strong. I know that with my Cuda which has a USCT SFCs on it they are as solid as any part of the factory frame.
Click to expand...
Great answer full welds that the factory doesn't do much you would be a good one to ask have you welded a K in?
 
I tried the US car tools , once in a 1970 Cuda I did . When it came to routing brake, and fuel lines and emergency brake cable system was a royal pain
No thanks. the next time I made my own

Going off memory here so bear with me.

I think I used 2 x2.5" box tubing . I think they were .080 thick wall.
Cut the rear end of the tube so it slides up and over the rear frame section where its turns up and is welded to the floor pan. Basically encapsulating the frame itself . ( hopefully this makes since .)
The butt weld then to the trans / torsion bar cross member rail in front. I left a lip on this end that sits flat on the bottom side of the frame , thus basically locating the tube to sit flush with the frame itself.
if you want to ad stiffeners make some small up rights that can be welded to the top of said tube and welded them to the floor ( I didnt do this part)

I lost all my pics of said install on another computer when it died a few years back

I can assure you that add far more stiffness to the car than you can imagine. AND no dealing with brake line, or emergency brake cable issues

Best part is they are barely visible from the side unless you get down low and look for them . And can be removed later on if the owner decides ,,,although not likely . As opposed to the US stuff that fully welded full length
 
I can tell you that the rails welded into my split floor pan flat out work. My car has stock rear rails. Leaves square and level right to left. It has over 750 passes on it. 60 FTs in in the mid 1.2x range off the foot brake. The body is still laser straight. What else could you ask for?
Doug
received_920231962100194.jpeg
 
dvw said:
I can tell you that the rails welded into my split floor pan flat out work. My car has stock rear rails. Leaves square and level right to left. It has over 750 passes on it. 60 FTs in in the mid 1.2x range off the foot brake. The body is still laser straight. What else could you ask for?
Doug
View attachment 1162686
Click to expand...
Thank you Sir for an awsome answer welded frame is better.
 
biomedtechguy said:
So my best friend brought to my attention that the U.S. Car Tools subframe connectors require welding to the floorpans (which I knew, but wasn't thinking about). Before I began to see my car in the reference of trying to make less "invasive" performance modifications, I was all set to use the U.S. Car Tools frame connectors....
My Assassin traction bars are shipping next week, and I'm ordering my Calvert split mono leaf springs and sliders as well. So while the car is having the front and rear suspension system replaced, I may as well tie the front and rear frames together.
What brand of subframe connectors do the best job without having to weld them to the floorpans, and how drastic of a compromise is that vs the U.S. Car Tools pieces and technique?
Thanks to all of you. I want to make the order by next week, so please let me know what you think!
Click to expand...
Think what is a frame for?
 
440 Charger said:
So you are welding in?
Click to expand...


More like welded in . . . that was a bit ago . . . and the underside is all finished . . .

The unfinished area is where I had some figuring out for the hand brake - custom work.

sm_bedliner08.jpg
 
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