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Replacing motor mounts for BB

Wietse

Wietse

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Hey all,

I've got a set of new motor mount isolators lying around for my '69 Coronet with 440 engine, the other day i noticed the currently installed appear not to be in the best shape and i would like to replace them.
Is this possible to replace them 1 at the time without engine removal?
Guess i could set a jack with a block of wood under the oil pan side and raise the engine slightly to take the weight, but is it possible to remove the isolator in that way?

If not guess it needs to wait till i will pull the motor out.

Any tips/info is highly appreciated!
 
I have replaced mine in the past without removing the motor, doing it just like you described. Take out one bolt, lift that side of the motor and swap them.
 
Ya, just watch your throttle cable.
make sure your not over twisting the tranny rubber mount (would loosen it up ) just to be safe
 
To be honest..(digging in his parts box)...i also happened to have a tranny mount. :)
I see if i can replace that once the motor mounts are done.
So, when lifting the motor, it's possible to damage the throttle cable?
How much lift are we talking here? Length of the stud on the motor mount?

Edit: I've got a set of Dynatech Engineering MityMounts, read somewhere these are good right?
And a Mopar Poly transmount.
 
Personally I would take throttle cable loose from engine just so there’s no damage to it. Also trans linkage. I went with Moroso solid steel mounts many,many years ago when racing; so I have no worries there.
 
I installed the mitymounts, they do work better than the stockers and still provide some vibration dampening. Get the car up on stands, and jack the motor just enough, usually only takes an inch or so (1)to take pressure off the mounting bolts for removal, and for(2)lining the holes up for installation. Yes on removing the nut from the trans mount..
 
I've changed mounts too with the engine in the car. You have to lift it up about 20-25cm, one side at a time. I like mopower's idea of disconnecting the throttle cable and loosening the transmission mount bolt/bolts....really, just loosen anything that starts to get pulled on when you lift the motor to one side. WATCH YOUR FINGERS

For the transmission mount, you really need to support the back of the transmission and remove the cross-member to change the mount (at least with a 4 speed, and probably with an automatic too)
 
Open the hood and leave it open. Disconnect throttle and kickdown linkages. Unbolt shroud and trans mount. Do not lift on any part of oil pan. I'll assume you have no garage equipment, lift, hoist, etc. You can lift each side of the engine with a bottle Jack at the rear of the block near the inspection cover. If 4-speed, watch clutch pivot shaft so bushings don't pop out. After removing mount bolt, raise just enough to clear tabs. Work slowly and carefully.
 
Had a go at it this morning, unfortunately after starting to lift the engine the header hits the torsion bar.. :eek:
It only gave me very little clearance to work on them and pretty sure i will not get it out in this situation.
I will have another close look, if they are broken or so i have to find a way to do it, if they are not broken or so (quite sure they are not) i will wait until i will pull the engine.
There is another 1000 things i can do on the car so i am not going to be bored :D
Thx anyway for the input guys!
 
Man, I never thought about the throttle cable being an obstacle! I have only had to replace the RH (2468 cylinders) side though.
On an aside....
In 2002 when I converted my car from a 318 to a 440, I bought a Schumacher poly lock LH side and a new rubber RH mount. A couple of years ago I was under the car and saw the LHone was broken. I moseyed to my parts stash and found several spares but they all looked thicker than both the LH poly lock and the broken one I had. It seemed odd but I went to a local parts store and the ones they had were also thicker. I installed the new one and now the LH header touched the power steering gear chuck.
I had to dimple the 2 tubes and grind some on the P/S box to get clearance.
This what I call "The snowball effect", where one small change leads to another change, another modification, etc.
 
Not sure on the header manufacturer, but it's with a 3" collector and i believe 1-7/8" primary's.
I think it is a tuned header because mine has a few extra strange bends compared to the ones i find online.

Anyway, it's not a problems as they are not broken, i can still drive it till i pull the engine one day. (hopefully this winter)
For sure it's a tight fit these RB engines, a set of stock exhaust manifolds really make a difference in engine bay space, but they kill performance. :(
 
Believe or not I changed one once by removing the bolts. Then had a friend start the engine and brake torque. While he held the RPM up in gear it raised the engine. I pulled the old mount out and slipped the new one in. Not recommended, but it sure was a time saver.
Doug
 
WileERobby said:
Open the hood and leave it open. Disconnect throttle and kickdown linkages. Unbolt shroud and trans mount. Do not lift on any part of oil pan. I'll assume you have no garage equipment, lift, hoist, etc. You can lift each side of the engine with a bottle Jack at the rear of the block near the inspection cover. If 4-speed, watch clutch pivot shaft so bushings don't pop out. After removing mount bolt, raise just enough to clear tabs. Work slowly and carefully.
Click to expand...
I know this is an old thread…
When lifting on the rear of the engine, do I lift from one side then the other so it rolls?
 
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