• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

possible bad converter?

icetech said:
BTW... just doing research.. should i add a blocker rod or not? I see guys that swear it does not firm the shift and just puts more stress on a clutch.

"When the 1-2 upshift occurs the piston moves in the opposite direction, (AWAY from the spring) so the spring has absolutely no cushioning affect on the shift. The cushioning that the accumulator supplies on the 1-2 upshift is strictly a hydraulic function, it "accumulates" fluid to slow down the application of the kickdown band."
Click to expand...
Don't use a blocker rod. Just leave the accumulator spring out.
 
Dave6T4 said:
Don't use a blocker rod. Just leave the accumulator spring out.
Click to expand...
people argue bout that... saying that just removing the spring still lets the piston move so basically same same?
 
This is why i love forums.. 50 opinions on the same thing and they are all right :)
 
Dave6T4 said:
I'm pretty sure you got a bum converter. It happens, sometimes. I rebuilt a 727 for a customer, and he called to say there was something wrong with it, after he installed it. I went to his place to see for myself what was going on. His problem was almost the opposite of yours, however. He could rev the engine up, and the car would hardly move. At the same time, there was a weird howling noise. I told him that his converter was no good. He said it was a new higher stall piece that he had bought from a local speed shop. He took it out, and the speed shop was good enough to exchange it. The replacement converter worked fine, and he was happy with my transmission rebuild.
Click to expand...

Thanks Dave.. i'm gonna order a PTC... i don't feel like dealing with RMA and shipping this one back. maybe for a spare eventually. 6 months out of warranty now.
 
Dave6T4 said:
Just my experience from rebuilding 727's. I've likely done a 100 of them over 40 years.
Click to expand...
K.. ordered a PTC.... 90 day warranty? wtf though... oh well.. should be here in a week or so.. they don't keep 727 street converters on the shelf
 
Thanks guys.. will update this when i get it swapped out.. third time i have had the trans out.. first time i started the car i heard weird noises and ran it for 1 minute tops.. yanked the trans and went through it for the second time in a week.. didn't find a single thing wrong.. put it back in and the noise was gone. I bet that first start is what hurt the FTI converter....

I called them at the time and they said if i could turn the top gear in the converter it's prolly fine.
 
BTW.. if anyone has a bad converter the guy at PTC said they will cut them apart and repair for like $350.. by the time i paid shipping i would be at almost 500.. and the wait... screw it.. it's just money and i'll make more.
 
icetech said:
idle vacuum is 9inches, initial is 24 total 34.. don't have a tach right now. Not enough power will make a converter not stall at all? that's what i'm trying to determine.. not lack of power
Click to expand...
Lack of power can make the converter feel tighter, to a point. Add a couple degrees of timing and then be careful with it. That 34 degrees may be a little low on a 9.4 to 1 318, but that is easy to test. That will also test the timing marks and the timing light itself. Don't care what number it ends up with, just add four degrees and evaluate it carefully. If it rattles or sounds off, don't beat on it and put the timing back.

In the 90s I saw a low compression 360 with a lot of camshaft that was a complete turd. That one had stock exhaust manifolds and a set of headers fixed it up. Never seen another one that bad before. But I looked back at your build thread and you have headers on this one, so we can rule that out.

You mentioned band adjustment in the trans. Low/reverse band too tight would not be noticeable in 1st gear since it is applied in manual low range anyways, so rule that out. Too tight intermediate band would drag when it is not supposed to. That is easy to check because it is the external band adjustment.

After all that, I would agree with the idea the converter is the cause. With 4.30 gearing that car should FEEL like it is accelerating easily and, if not, something is definitely off.
 
Bobzilla said:
Lack of power can make the converter feel tighter, to a point. Add a couple degrees of timing and then be careful with it. That 34 degrees may be a little low on a 9.4 to 1 318, but that is easy to test. That will also test the timing marks and the timing light itself. Don't care what number it ends up with, just add four degrees and evaluate it carefully. If it rattles or sounds off, don't beat on it and put the timing back.

In the 90s I saw a low compression 360 with a lot of camshaft that was a complete turd. That one had stock exhaust manifolds and a set of headers fixed it up. Never seen another one that bad before. But I looked back at your build thread and you have headers on this one, so we can rule that out.

You mentioned band adjustment in the trans. Low/reverse band too tight would not be noticeable in 1st gear since it is applied in manual low range anyways, so rule that out. Too tight intermediate band would drag when it is not supposed to. That is easy to check because it is the external band adjustment.

After all that, I would agree with the idea the converter is the cause. With 4.30 gearing that car should FEEL like it is accelerating easily and, if not, something is definitely off.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bob... yeah i wish you could feel it.. it's not like low power.. it's like it just hates life. I usually am pretty good at fixing stuff but this was just new to me. Am excited for the new converter to show up though.. hope it wakes up.
 
icetech said:
BTW.. if anyone has a bad converter the guy at PTC said they will cut them apart and repair for like $350.. by the time i paid shipping i would be at almost 500.. and the wait... screw it.. it's just money and i'll make more.
Click to expand...
A friend just sent a converter to PTC for checkout. Turnaround time was rather short and communication with them was excellent, from what he tells me. And his was not originally a PTC unit either. It was sent in while the trans was out for freshening.
 
icetech said:
Thanks Bob... yeah i wish you could feel it.. it's not like low power.. it's like it just hates life. I usually am pretty good at fixing stuff but this was just new to me. Am excited for the new converter to show up though.. hope it wakes up.
Click to expand...
If it is the converter causing, and sounds likely, it will be obvious with a good one in there for sure. I agree with DVW, that thing should kind if haul *** for a street car.

The problem with me feeling it is every car feels worse with me in it. At 6' 7' tall and about 330 pounds people can feel the difference when I get in, like throwing out an anchor. Lol.
 
Bobzilla said:
If it is the converter causing, and sounds likely, it will be obvious with a good one in there for sure. I agree with DVW, that thing should kind if haul *** for a street car.

The problem with me feeling it is every car feels worse with me in it. At 6' 7' tall and about 330 pounds people can feel the difference when I get in, like throwing out an anchor. Lol.
Click to expand...

6'7" you wouldn't even fit in my car :) And i just hate dealing with shipping and all that plus i didn't keep the original box so meh... i'm so lazy i will blow $500+ to not deal with it..

I hate that warranty starts when you buy the part even if you don't install it for 2 years... i mean it's fair and all but still sucks.
 
Bobzilla said:
If it is the converter causing, and sounds likely, it will be obvious with a good one in there for sure. I agree with DVW, that thing should kind if haul *** for a street car.
Click to expand...
Yeah... i have never had more than a stock converter so i'm excited to see the difference finally. I only built this to beat on to and from work.. I would kill to go racing (was my dream as a kid...) but the cost of truck/trailer and all that.. not gonna happen unless i sell my house and move a mile from milan :)

P.S. the 318 was just gonna be a temp motor.. i have my 360 block stripped down and needing to hit a machine shop then i will do a 408.. kinda wanna do a 426 but people say not to. Kinda love the little 318 though, been fun to work on.
 
Not much constructive from me at this point, and I haven't read the whole thread, but.....
That thing should run like a raped ape, with a trickflow-headed small block, a converter, and monstrous gear!
Something is way wrong. It should light street tires for two hundred feet thru two gears.
I sure hope you find your problem.
 
33 IMP said:
Not much constructive from me at this point, and I haven't read the whole thread, but.....
That thing should run like a raped ape, with a trickflow-headed small block, a converter, and monstrous gear!
Something is way wrong. It should light street tires for two hundred feet thru two gears.
I sure hope you find your problem.
Click to expand...

Thanks imp.... it won't even hint at breaking the tires lose... on my painted garage floor i can brake torque it though.. like a 1982 straight 6 fairmont :) 99% sure this will fix it.. plus i can inspect the trans at the same time.. Have a pushbutton trans and slip yoke tailshaft has me crazy paranoid about having to find another if i hurt it.
 
FTI has A pretty good reputation. I'd call them. If you pump up the brakes hard. How many rpm can you get it to. I built a similar combo in a 68 Satelite convertible a few years ago. 8.9-1, 360, 3.23, stock 904 converter. It would spin the tires all the way thru 1st gear by just flooring it. My Challenger flooring it from a roll, (no clutch dump) the 9.0-1 360 in will rip the tires all the way thru 3rd gear. It's a 4 speed car so no torque multiplication. You'll figure it out. It'll run great.
Doug
 
dvw said:
FTI has A pretty good reputation. I'd call them. If you pump up the brakes hard. How many rpm can you get it to. I built a similar combo in a 68 Satelite convertible a few years ago. 8.9-1, 360, 3.23, stock 904 converter. It would spin the tires all the way thru 1st gear by just flooring it. My Challenger flooring it from a roll, (no clutch dump) the 9.0-1 360 in will rip the tires all the way thru 3rd gear. It's a 4 speed car so no torque multiplication. You'll figure it out. It'll run great.
Doug
Click to expand...

I have no problem with FTI.. just bad luck i will prolly get this one repaired eventually.. working 70 hours a week doesn't give me time to run around for shipping and stuff.

holding the brake, pretty much none.. it doesn't flash or rev at all, all grab. guy at PTC said it sounds like the sprague also. In the video you can hear the motor didn't come up in rpm at all at take off, just rolled out easy.

thanks for all the help btw doug
 
What spark plugs and ignition system are you using? I've seen too high of a heat range do that before.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

1
Cam recommendation
Replies
2
Views
443
493 Mike
493 Mike
fesser
Which converter would you use, low bid project
Replies
12
Views
991
RemCharger
RemCharger
truetriplex
1979 727 Transmission issue
Replies
6
Views
462
1967coronet
1967coronet
M
converter stall speed on 318LA
Replies
4
Views
811
Trans Man #
Trans Man #
Moparfiend
Guess the Torque Converter
Replies
7
Views
661
Moparfiend
Moparfiend
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top