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Voodoo Rising - A Build Thread

Acid brushes for pipe soldering work well. Also read the info on the seam sealer. Some, like the Sika Flex I've used, require some primer down before laying the sealer on.
 
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ckessel said:
Acid brushes for pipe soldering work well. Also read the info on the seam sealer. Some, like the Sika Flex I've used, require some primer down before laying the sealer on.
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Thanks for the info! I am definitely a "follow the instructions" guy any time I work with a product for the first time. If the product recommends that order of operations, I can hit it with the epoxy primer I got first.
 
And as I've recently found out when I went to use my un-opened tubes of sealer, a little over a year old, most was junk. I was able to get some out of the 2nd tube to do the small area on the VW, but will need more down the road. Same with the Eastwood inner frame spray I use as my primer for the welded areas.
 
ckessel said:
And as I've recently found out when I went to use my un-opened tubes of sealer, a little over a year old, most was junk. I was able to get some out of the 2nd tube to do the small area on the VW, but will need more down the road. Same with the Eastwood inner frame spray I use as my primer for the welded areas.
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Hoping the stuff I bought is good, just got it yesterday but who knows.

I shop vac'd the whole floor out and did a final inspection today. Found a few things that need addressing, and they are coming back out to button them up. Generally I'd say 95% perfect on the first try though, and they are happily standing behind their work to ensure it is done right. Considering all in this only took one week so far, and at less than 20% of what one of the local hot rod shops (who have 18+ month lead times) cost, I am very pleased. The shops near me do excellent work, but because of that they are always booked WAY out and I simply don't have the time or budget to use them.

Hoping next weekend I'll ACTUALLY be doing the seam sealer, as well as dropping the K member, suspension and rear end.
 
Still no pics, but I have been making good progress. I keep having very small windows of time to work on the car so the headphones go in, the work progresses, and I forget to get worthwhile pics haha. The seam sealer is 90% done, I have finished all of the new metal seams.

While I was poking around I discovered some of the old stuff had failed, especially around where the wheelhouse connects to the rear underseat pan. I popped it out and cleaned up the areas underneath thoroughly, thankfully they look clean with just the tiniest tint of surface rust. Going to hit them with rust neutralizing primer today, then seam seal them this weekend. I'll try and remember to get pics soon, but it is definitely a good feeling having the floor coming together like it is.
 
Random update! Predictably any stickers on the car were in pretty sorry shape. Most notably the radiator support decals and some of the decals on the front bumper that tell a little about the car's history.

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I happen to work at a print shop, and an opportunity arose where I was able to slide in a small project for myself. I had digitally re-created these decals a while back, and finally was able to print them off! We had a run of very nice 3M cast vehicle wrap film being produced and it had some dead space I was able to use.

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I will be repainting the engine bay at the same time as the floor pan, so I wanted to have a nice set of radiator support stickers to match the fresh finish. I ran off some extra radiator support decals as I figured that is something that could be useful to others. The stickers for the front bumper will live in storage for a little while, no point putting those on until I get around to doing the exterior restoration. Nice having them on hand though!

It is definitely cool learning that the car was bought new in NJ, but pretty soon after it went to SoCal for several years while the owner went to school. It appears to have ended up back in NJ as the final registration window sticker from '77 is a NJ one.

I swear the next update will be floor pan progress! Been crazy with work, travel, and renovating a house all at the same time.
 
FINALLY a pic of the floor for you guys. Still a few final welds to dress and spots to seal but it feels damn good having a solid floor in place. While I wasn't able to replicate the factory look of the seam sealer as accurately as I had hoped, I think it comes close enough. The caulking gun worked great to get it thoroughly down into the overlaps, then I applied an additional bead and brushed it. The stuff I am using does a really nice job of adhering, but appears to self-level quite well too, so it smoothed out a lot of the brush marks. Oh well, function is key and it is definitely super well sealed!

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Next step after the final touches is a once over to smooth any last rough spots, then it is getting epoxy primed. Any input on how to handle the transition up into the inner firewall would be appreciated. I don't have full access to paint all the way up in there, was thinking of maybe just tapering it off and letting the new green paint fade into the original paint as softly as possible.

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Still feels surreal that this is all happening in my "corner" haha. I've never gone this deep in a project before, and really expected to have a garage before ever trying something like this. Still a big upgrade from my previous projects working in my driveway on a main road. Now I have my very own fence for a little privacy at least!
 
Your feet and shoes will appreciate the new floor being in place. No more calluses too.:lol:
 
Very cool car, factree 383/4 speed is killer. I am a huge fan of green cars and I don’t think I have ever seen a dark green gen 1 charger. That color makes that car look fantastic.
Travis..
 
Phantomx said:
Very cool car, factree 383/4 speed is killer. I am a huge fan of green cars and I don’t think I have ever seen a dark green gen 1 charger. That color makes that car look fantastic.
Travis..
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Thank you, when I came across it this one felt special. Biggest project I've ever undertaken for sure. She's going to have to sit for almost a month now, as I will be tied up finally getting the home renovation moving again, plus hopping around traveling. Likely mid-June I'll be back on it and doing the epoxy and color coat on the floors and engine bay. I'll be daydreaming about it the whole time though!
 
Voodoo said:
Thank you, when I came across it this one felt special. Biggest project I've ever undertaken for sure. She's going to have to sit for almost a month now, as I will be tied up finally getting the home renovation moving again, plus hopping around traveling. Likely mid-June I'll be back on it and doing the epoxy and color coat on the floors and engine bay. I'll be daydreaming about it the whole time though!
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Isn't mid June the tropical season in Florida?
 
Don Frelier said:
Isn't mid June the tropical season in Florida?
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I feel like 10m months of the year in FL have tropical weather haha. If you're talking about Hurricane season though, they yes that starts at the beginning of June. Most years we don't have severe storms that early though, usually back end of July or early August it ramps up. Now I've said that though, I am sure we will get a Jun 1st storm haha.
 
Small update, got the first layer of undercoat on, figured I could at least get that done before things go nuts midweek. Still drying in this pic so it looks a bit blotchy, but I believe it should even out as it sets. Couple of thin spots from what I can see, but second coat should take care of that.

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I'll be doing the underside rear once I have dropped the rear axle, all seems pretty nice and solid back there, so it should be a bit easier. I'll be dropping the K member and front suspension too, so ill do the underside up front at that time as well. Anyone know if the frame rais should be painted body color, or if they were black? Trying to figure out how to transition from up there to the black underside. Any info would be appreciated!

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Small progress on the 440, managed to get valve cover grommets, breathers and filler caps in place. Took a lot of combing through old posts, but I managed to find a grommet that fit the oversized hole in my covers. It only came with a 0.75" opening, so I had to find breathers with that stem size which was trickier than I expected. Finding Chrome ones was easy, but no such luck finding black ones. Oh well. I'll be getting the breathers and filler caps either powder coated or painted black. Once the car has been through the initial shakedown and is running reliably, I'll add the PCV system in. Dual breathers initially just to simplify things on first start.
 
Finally back from a long trip visiting my grandfather for his 90th birthday, and starting to get back after it! My goal coming into the weekend was to get the front end removed. Unfortunately I am battling against stuck torsion bars. I've read several threads on here and watched a bunch of videos, so I have a couple more things I am going to be trying today after work.


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I did get the harness removed and the firewall mostly stripped. Just gotta get under the dash and pull the brake master, throttle cable, and steering column. Once the front end is out, I will be working on engine bay prep. I plan on painting the engine bay at the same time as the floor pans. If I get bold, I will be converting the car tent into a temporary spray booth and doing it in-situ while the front end is out for powder coat.

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After getting my *** kicked by the torsion bars, I pivoted to another project and pulled the trims from around the windshield and rear window. I was pleasantly surprised at the condition in there, though there is some old goop I have to clean out. I don't plan on pulling the glass out of this car until much later when it is time to do body and paint, so I am going to do a temporary reseal for now. I tend to drive my projects a LOT once they are on the road, so this thing has to be able to deal with some rain.

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Anyway, that is the update for now! Once the front end is back in, I plan on dropping the whole rear end out and doing a similar process. It'll be my first time building a differential, so that should be fun haha.
 
Voodoo said:
I tend to drive my projects a LOT once they are on the road, so this thing has to be able to deal with some rain.
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That's my problem, once it runs and drives it doesn't get worked on anymore. I have to save that part for last!
 
nitro_rat said:
That's my problem, once it runs and drives it doesn't get worked on anymore. I have to save that part for last!
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Totally understand that! I am working on a deadline of October for this car to be road ready. I decided the only thing I will allow myself to hold off on doing is the interior if time is getting tight. Anything mechanical has to be 100%. Realizing I may be crazy as that's only three months from now...
 
I would recommend the 1.03" PST bars.
That allows you to just cut the existing bars.
Part of your difficulty might be the way you have the entire spindle hanging down quite a bit.
You don't want any twist on the hex entry points.
The passenger side on my car took a bunch of pressure on the press even after cutting the bar in 2 pieces.
(A Rochester NY car...)
 
Don Frelier said:
I would recommend the 1.03" PST bars.
That allows you to just cut the existing bars.
Part of your difficulty might be the way you have the entire spindle hanging down quite a bit.
You don't want any twist on the hex entry points.
The passenger side on my car took a bunch of pressure on the press even after cutting the bar in 2 pieces.
(A Rochester NY car...)
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I think you're pretty much dead on, got one free and ended up managing to separate the K frame from the LCA on the other side so we are 90% of the way there. Going to take the spindle off to get as much load off as possible tonight and I bet it'll behave then. I have brand new bars on the shelf already, been a minute but I am pretty sure I got the 1.03" ones. I almost got to the point of cutting the bars but I am glad I didn't. I hate destroying old parts if I can avoid it. Sometimes it's necessary though.

After that I get to blast the whole thing apart and give it a rough clean before sending all the relevant bits off to powder coat. That should be a little more rewarding.
 
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