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My new to me 64 Polara

icetech said:
if you are like me your brain will make you check for leaks everytime you stop anywhere :)
Click to expand...
It acted up before leaving my driveway. Like it is running off one side only. It's ok now. more comments from people about bad fuel from one particular chain store.
 
I filled it up with good stuff from another station and I will add some additive like Marvel or the like.
 
When you took the fuel mixer apart, was there any brown cloudy sediment in the bowl? If so, thats rust. No fuel filter made will keep it out. However, if you're using a metal in line filter, you put a magnet or two on it to stop the rust. I like using the trans pan magnets Mopar used on the 727 based units and the 413/604/606 FWD units. About 2" od and just under 1' id. I have that on the wagon. If you ever drop the tank out, you can put a couple of Cow Magnets in various places of the bottom. Those can be had at livestock supply houses. Will grab whatever is floating around in the tank and keep it from traveling forward.
 
ckessel said:
When you took the fuel mixer apart, was there any brown cloudy sediment in the bowl? If so, thats rust. No fuel filter made will keep it out. However, if you're using a metal in line filter, you put a magnet or two on it to stop the rust. I like using the trans pan magnets Mopar used on the 727 based units and the 413/604/606 FWD units. About 2" od and just under 1' id. I have that on the wagon. If you ever drop the tank out, you can put a couple of Cow Magnets in various places of the bottom. Those can be had at livestock supply houses. Will grab whatever is floating around in the tank and keep it from traveling forward.
Click to expand...
I was disappointed that I didn't really find anything in the carb. No sediment or floaties at all. I sprayed all the passages and blew them out with compressed air. I usually run a piece of tag wire through them but I didn't have any.
 
toolmanmike said:
I was disappointed that I didn't really find anything in the carb. No sediment or floaties at all. I sprayed all the passages and blew them out with compressed air. I usually run a piece of tag wire through them but I didn't have any.
Click to expand...

on the upside it will go a lot quicker the second time :)

And magnets on the fuel filter is a great idea
 
icetech said:
on the upside it will go a lot quicker the second time :)

And magnets on the fuel filter is a great idea
Click to expand...
The accelerator pump linkage is a turd with that carb, down in a cavity with a S shaped link that get's fed through a hole in the plunger shaft on one end, and the other end has a tiny flat washer and a hairpin clip. Get it all together and cycle it a couple times and the damn thing comes apart. I bet I put that thing together a dozen times.
 
toolmanmike said:
The accelerator pump linkage is a turd with that carb, down in a cavity with a S shaped link that get's fed through a hole in the plunger shaft on one end, and the other end has a tiny flat washer and a hairpin clip. Get it all together and cycle it a couple times and the damn thing comes apart. I bet I put that thing together a dozen times.
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God's way of telling you to put a 4 bbl. AFB on it. LOL
 
It's always fun when parts come in. Like Christmas in June.

mega parts order.jpg
 
toolmanmike said:
It's always fun when parts come in. Like Christmas in June.

View attachment 1874099
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Lots of luck with that, Mike. I had a heck of a time getting mine to cancel correctly. It might have been more a problem of the aftermarket steering wheel than the switch, though. Anyways, I managed to break one of the plastic cancel ears off the switch, and have to cancel manually, anyways. I said, "F@@k that, I'm NOT changing the switch again!". At least, it signals OK now.
 
Dave6T4 said:
Lots of luck with that, Mike. I had a heck of a time getting mine to cancel correctly. It might have been more a problem of the aftermarket steering wheel than the switch, though. Anyways, I managed to break one of the plastic cancel ears off the switch, and have to cancel manually, anyways. I said, "F@@k that, I'm NOT changing the switch again!". At least, it signals OK now.
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I hope I can get the brake light to work properly. Many guys here say a switch takes care of the problem. My switch works well in the left position but it feels like a baseball bat in a 5 gallon bucket when turning right.

If feeding the wires down the column is a major issue, I might think about cut, strip, solder, and heat shrink up closer to the switch. As long as the wires and the connector are good. (probably not) LOL
 
toolmanmike said:
If feeding the wires down the column is a major issue, I might think about cut, strip, solder, and heat shrink up closer to the switch. As long as the wires and the connector are good. (probably not) LOL
Click to expand...
Here's the type connection that you have.
20160717_190801.jpg



Use needle nose pliers to gently release each one. Just draw a diagram of each color and location. If you forget just look on the other half in the car.
20170709_130729.jpg


20170709_131307.jpg



Then you can remove the screws on the turn signal switch and pull them through the column.
20170709_132504.jpg


20170709_132359.jpg


20170709_132717.jpg



To install, do everything in reverse. Tape the wires all together along with a piece of stiff wire, to fish them back down where they come out.
20170720_215610.jpg
 
khryslerkid said:
Here's the type connection that you have.
View attachment 1874170


Use needle nose pliers to gently release each one. Just draw a diagram of each color and location. If you forget just look on the other half in the car.
View attachment 1874171

View attachment 1874172


Then you can remove the screws on the turn signal switch and pull them through the column.
View attachment 1874173

View attachment 1874174

View attachment 1874175


To install, do everything in reverse. Tape the wires all together along with a piece of stiff wire, to fish them back down where they come out.
View attachment 1874169
Click to expand...
That's great. Thanks for the procedure and photos.
 
Before you pull the wires up through the column, tape the wire terminals under the dash together as tightly as you can, with another piece of wire included in the bundle. as you pull the old switch out, this length of wire will be pulled up through the column. Snip this wire off at the old terminals, and attach it firmly to the new ones on the new switch. Grab the end of this wire, under the dash, and slowly and carefully pull it through the column, pulling the new wires in. Attach the terminals to the correct holes in the block, and plug back in.
 
I got my shirt today. Pretty amazing, 10 days to print it, make it and ship it to me from China. The guy in the second photo isn't me. I wish I was that trim.

shirt I ordered 2.jpg


Shirt I ordered.jpg
 
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