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Orange ignition module

dadsbee said:
I would hope that at 82 you'd have more than a 27 year old Bob.
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I may be biased, but considering the 27 year old isn’t pretending he’s better then someone because of his bank account, because he knows it’s not going to mean a thing when it’s time to go, he might have “more”
 
dadsbee said:
I would hope that at 82 you'd have more than a 27 year old Bob. WTF is wrong with you and what does your bank account have to do with anything in reference to ignition knowledge???. As for your bank account, I'm sure that many here could put your boasting to shame...
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:poke: :lol: Yep. It doesn't belong in this conversation.
 
Delete what needs to be deleted. Put whoever needs to be in timeout in the corner.

Back to ignition. Sadly we live in a world plagued with quality control issues. Points, HEI, Chrysler electronic, it doesn’t matter, it’s going to fail at some point. The best thing to do is find a company with good customer service, that’ll admit they sold a faulty product and help you solve the issue. It doesn’t hurt to carry a few spare parts too
 
Cheapsunglasses said:
Delete what needs to be deleted. Put whoever needs to be in timeout in the corner.

Back to ignition. Sadly we live in a world plagued with quality control issues. Points, HEI, Chrysler electronic, it doesn’t matter, it’s going to fail at some point. The best thing to do is find a company with good customer service, that’ll admit they sold a faulty product and help you solve the issue. It doesn’t hurt to carry a few spare parts too
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I’m lucky. My GTX was restored with factory ignition parts. I also carry spares I bought from Halifaxhops.
 
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Cheapsunglasses said:
I wish the red x was still available. I’m guessing you also think bias ply tires are still the cats meow? Are you typing this using a telegraph? Do you even have a starter on your car, or do you use the hand crank still?
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Why the negative reply to a fellow club member? I would bet you couldn’t tell the difference starting or driving a car with electronic or a points ignition without popping the hood.
 
Cheapsunglasses said:
I wish the red x was still available. I’m guessing you also think bias ply tires are still the cats meow? Are you typing this using a telegraph? Do you even have a starter on your car, or do you use the hand crank still?
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I run bias ply tires on all my cars .
 
Big bill said:
I run bias ply tires on all my cars .
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I've run bias ply and radials, points and electronic ignitions. My current GTX was a test mule of sorts, having been a Plymouth dealer's personal car for 15 years, during which time he made a few changes from factory stock. During that time, he stayed with the original points ignition. However, he changed out the factory cam for a milder grind for trailer towing, and went to radial tires in 1972. Car was fitted with 1968 style magnum 500s, dealer installed, he didn't want '69 style with trim rings. I know from personal experience that trim rings had a tendency to bend valve stems on daily driven Mopars, as did full wheel covers.

So, this GTX was set up by an expert back in the day, to be an optimum daily driver. I think the points vs. electronic debate clouds the fact that with the quality parts that were originally available through Chrysler, both systems were reliable in daily use, and Bill Clark never saw a need to modify the ignition components in my car. I did, however, put it back to bias plies, trying to recreate the memory of what it looked like the day I first drove it.
 
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I feel like I posted this before, but:

I bought a Mopar Performance B block electronic conversion kit around 2001 for my 71 Fury Custom Suburban. It was stock, points 383 2bbl. As soon as the key was turned to "on" the box had an oscillation - a constant arc from the coil secondary to the primary terminal. Swapping coils netted no change. Coil ohm reading was normal. Swapped to a stock black box from a 70's parts car and it ran like that for 10 years till I sold it. I still miss that car.
 
But the "checkbook balance" comment isn't called for. That in itself caused the issue. Take a deep breath and blow some air out of your puffed out chest. You appear to be a smart fellow, act like it. We were having a good conversation here until your comment. Are we done yet? (rhetorical question)
 
I've put ignitors In furnaces too!! ( different kinds even!)
 
For a simple street car I like the Pertronix. The base unit without bells and whistles. I have used one in my Swinger for many years now without issues. It's a great replacement for points and condenser.
 
who uses a checkbook in 2024? ....... I think they are all bias ply
 
RJRENTON said:
YES.....THE BEST ALTERNATIVE IS TO REVERT BACK TO POINTS AND CONDENSER METHOD.......realizing you will lose 50+ blazing HP and increase in MPG, etc. Everything promised with ECU is smoke and mirrors.....
BOB RENTON
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Trying to contact you but get some '15 conversations' message. Have question about going back to points. Thanks. John
 
I'm not sure if anyone reading this thread is still concerned with the ECU failures but from my experience, the biggest problem I found with them is the lack of a good case ground on them such as the pic in KD's post #4, Once I learned that lesson, I have never had one fail. Although I do have to admit I have never bought one made in the last 20 years or so. Although, the Points and condenser was a good system, IMO, the electronic ignition was a big improvement. It is just that you have to verify a good ground with a meter. You can't just assume no matter how big your bank account is.
 
1963JAM said:
Trying to contact you but get some '15 conversations' message. Have question about going back to points. Thanks. John
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How can I help you? My 1970 GTX RS23V0A ******, an origional 4 speed car, super track pack option ,4.10 Dana 60 rear, N96 air grabber, had an MSD CD Ignition system and a Mopar electronic distributor triggering the MSD system, by former owner) Since I wanted originally, I went back to the original Prestolite Dual point distributor, Mopar Essex coil and 0.5 ohm ballast resistor. (The distributor was recurved to my specs....~ 20° Advance all in by 2400 RPM and 15° static without any vacuum advance. I use Champion UJ-11G or Champion HO-8A spark plugs....and other internal engine mods. The rotating mass balanced, the engine will run up to 6500 RPM and never misses a beat. The cam is a Crane equivalent to a Mopar purple shaft cam.....0.509 lift 292 degree @ 4 degrees advanced and Crane 1.6 ratio roller rocker arms. Personally, dual point ignition is more than adequate for my needs. I've owned the car for ~ 36 years. It seems as if many want electronic ignition systems for ????...I'll stay with originally...just my opinion.....
BOB RENTON
 
RJRENTON said:
How can I help you? My 1970 GTX RS23V0A ******, an origional 4 speed car, super track pack option ,4.10 Dana 60 rear, N96 air grabber, had an MSD CD Ignition system and a Mopar electronic distributor triggering the MSD system, by former owner) Since I wanted originally, I went back to the original Prestolite Dual point distributor, Mopar Essex coil and 0.5 ohm ballast resistor. (The distributor was recurved to my specs....~ 20° Advance all in by 2400 RPM and 15° static without any vacuum advance. I use Champion UJ-11G or Champion HO-8A spark plugs....and other internal engine mods. The rotating mass balanced, the engine will run up to 6500 RPM and never misses a beat. The cam is a Crane equivalent to a Mopar purple shaft cam.....0.509 lift 292 degree @ 4 degrees advanced and Crane 1.6 ratio roller rocker arms. Personally, dual point ignition is more than adequate for my needs. I've owned the car for ~ 36 years. It seems as if many want electronic ignition systems for ????...I'll stay with originally...just my opinion.....
BOB RENTON
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Do you know if anyone manufactures a Prestolite distributor? Or have to go scrappin' and have one rebuilt. Is the Mopar Essex coil still made? My Blue Streak coil spilled its guts. Not sure if it doesn't like being mounted on the manifold or is this a case of electronic ignition without specific ballast and coil balancing act issue.
 
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