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Oil Pump Prime Procedure

Little update. Turns out the "tool' that I have is for the other brand. Chebbies. Wrong end type. I still think (thought) I was given the correct tool and searched but did not find it until now. Right after I ordered one from Summit. It was given to me about 20 years ago when a local garage closed. The owner was a friend. Turns out it was crafted out of all thread and I'm leary of using it in case it breaks when the pressure builds up. I know the mechanic probably used it in a pinch but i don't see evidence of that on the tool. Another couple days until I can get further along on this project. But that's the way it goes with old cars.

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It's a 5/16" hex drive. I made one from a piece of round rod and a grinder.
Put thee flats on drill end for Chuck to grab without slipping.
Loaned mine out and it was still out.

I'm going to make them and hand out for Christmas, along with battery terminal wire brush tools.
 
I thought going into my old parts 55 gallon barrel to see if I have a junk distributor. Could part that out and use the shaft. Weld an extension if needed. But I can get the tool in a couple days so thought I would move on removing the driver door panel to get to the key lock. It needs some rebuild. Will work after numerous tries and angles and oil but unlocks with the key just fine. We have a good locksmith locally to get it operating smoothly. Maybe before the tool comes in.
 
Not sure what you mean about the hex drive because mine is a slot. The other tool I have is a hex but does not work on the 383.

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Mariposa Mike said:
Appreciate the warning Don. I'll put the screw in handle on the drill for control. Obviously I have never done this before so any warnings/procedural info is much appreciated. I was looking at the engine Yesterday after completing the oil pump replacement and complete brake job. With a/c and a radiator hose further to the left and all the other stuff in the way it's hard to make a mark for reference when replacing the distributer. Believe I may have to move the alternator back out of the way. And maybe more. It is what it is.
Click to expand...
My engine builder does it all by hand and no drill. I tried once and in about 8 turns you could feel the pressure and see the oil. had the valve covers off
 
Id just pour some oil in the pump install and start it. You will have oil pressure just as quickly as when you change oil. Oil pressure faster if you prefill the filter some, I know its on its side but it will hold some oil.
 
I believe when rebuilding the pump with o-rings and gasket there was/is a hex on the outside but as you can see in the picture the distributor side is round with a slot in the middle for the shaft. Only about 1/4 inch lip before the "slot". The FSM does not have a clear picture. My 64 413 has this same configuration and distributor.
 
And to 68-500 I'm reusing the filter since it only a couple hundred miles on it. Thought that might have been my leak but traced it to the pump. There is still some oil in it. I did not lose much oil removing the pump so a hand twist on the pump with my all thread tool might work to get pressure.
 
i would think it would be almost impossible to snap that all thread by priming the pump.
 
The slot is in the drive gear, it is engaged with the camshaft. You won't spin anything with that slot. Take the drive gear out, and the bottom end is a 5/16" Thats what drives the oil pump. The priming tool is 18 inches long.

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Well that explains a lot. And why the tool picture at Summit on line looks round instead of pointed. Without that explanation I would have received the tool and wondered what the heck? And probably the tool I posted next to the distributor is the correct tool. It has a hex on the other end. That one looks like a used distributor shaft but is probably a used drive gear shaft. And I would have tried to turn the shaft and then thought something was locked up because it would not turn. Pictures are worth a thousand words and a thousand thanks for that.

Ol' Mike (never too old to learn)
 
Mariposa Mike said:
Well that explains a lot. And why the tool picture at Summit on line looks round instead of pointed. Without that explanation I would have received the tool and wondered what the heck? And probably the tool I posted next to the distributor is the correct tool. It has a hex on the other end. That one looks like a used distributor shaft but is probably a used drive gear shaft. And I would have tried to turn the shaft and then thought something was locked up because it would not turn. Pictures are worth a thousand words and a thousand thanks for that.

Ol' Mike (never too old to learn)
Click to expand...
Maybe it’s just how you write , but it seems like you still don’t understand.
The cam drives the oil pump drive shaft via the gear. The oil pump drive shaft turns the distributor via the slot. To prime the pump. You pull the oil pump drive shaft ( mark it for index.)

the priming tool is just a long shaft with the proper hex on one end that will fit in your drill. Mine is a piece of hex stock. Some are home made, but the hex is what fits in the pump to drive it. No slot is needed.
 
I think it's how I wrote it. I've taken a picture of how it's indexed to keep the engine timed when all goes back together. Even made a mark on a bracket where the rotor is pointing before removing the distributer. Will pull the gear today (I hope) and Summit says the tool will be delivered today. I can never have enough info so thanks for adding procedure to this post. The B Body forum has been a really good source for all kinds of info. Much of it applies to my C body too.
 
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