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Carburetor heat soak or vapor lock?

coronet_bob

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I read a post here talking about running a return line to solve a fuel starvation/hard start problem when the car has hot and sat for a brief time. No mention of general driving problems. I was told that this is carburetor heat soak to be solved with a carb parobolic spacer and that vapor lock messes with the car just operating right. Can anyone share their experiences and solutions.
My car has an air gap intake for air circulation but is hard starting when hot and it sits for a brief time. Otherwise it runs great. I have no hood clearance for a parobolic spacer. Thanks
 
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i had just what your going threw, i could see fuel bubbling,i have the clear window on my holley.Went away after installing 1/2 inch parobolic,you shure not enuff hood clearence.
 
I've heard of phenolic spacers and I've heard of polymer spacers, but I've never heard of parobolic spacers, nor have I heard of parabolic spacers.

Does anyone have a link for a parobolic spacer?
 
I installed a couple of things that worked great for this issue. Cool Carb (- Home) is a great spacer because it is wider so it protects the bowls from heat and its super thin (.155) so it will fit even when hood clearance is tight. I also install a fuel filter with dual outlets with one outlet routing a line back to the tank.
 
I used to have this problem with the slant six Valiants I drove back in the day, was surprised when it didn't happen with the 1970 GTX I bought in 1977. The factory vapor separator with return line in the second generation GTXs and R/Ts worked effectively. Years later, I owned two GTXs, both of which had been restored, and didn't have the vapor separator installed. I had hot start problems with both. Replacing the factory system solved the problem.

Baby Blue had the factory vapor separator, return line, a carb spacer, and a Holley electric fuel pump from the 70s. That car started like it had modern day fuel injection, under all conditions.
 
I installed a couple of things that worked great for this issue. Cool Carb (- Home) is a great spacer because it is wider so it protects the bowls from heat and its super thin (.155) so it will fit even when hood clearance is tight. I also install a fuel filter with dual outlets with one outlet routing a line back to the tank.
Do you think the spacer or return line made the biggest difference?
 
At the speed shop I used to work at back in the 80's, we sold quite a few of these shields. They were oe GM at the time. Works for any standard flange carb like Holley's, Carters etc. They used to make another version that was for spread bore carbs, q-jet/tq's etc. These units are very effective for dissipating heat and are thin. One gasket, the shield, then one more gasket. You may need to trim in areas to get around stuff since you're crossbreeding. They were especially effective on RV's.

IMG_7761.jpeg
 
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I've heard of phenolic spacers and I've heard of polymer spacers, but I've never heard of parobolic spacers, nor have I heard of parabolic spacers.

Does anyone have a link for a parobolic spacer?
1753416737343.png
this is a parabolic curve.
 
I read a post here talking about running a return line to solve a fuel starvation/hard start problem when the car has hot and sat for a brief time. No mention of general driving problems. I was told that this is carburetor heat soak to be solved with a carb parobolic spacer and that vapor lock messes with the car just operating right. Can anyone share their experiences and solutions.
My car has an air gap intake for air circulation but is hard starting when hot and it sits for a brief time. Otherwise it runs great. I have no hood clearance for a parobolic spacer. Thanks
Bob, what are you working on? What's your engine, intake, carb, filter combo?
 
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