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My daily driver 67 Coronet wagon

For sure. Having something is better than nothing. Even the bolt ins. But even those are better if welded. I didn't want to cut the floor or have to pull out the interior, so thats what I ended up doing. Chris Birdsong went further by cutting through the t-bar/trans x, to extend to the front rail. Didn't want to get that involved. On my 65, I made the units[ 2X4 .120 wall], extend through the rear rail enough to catch the USCT spring relocation boxes[ all welded together there], cut through the t-bar/trans x to run the unit about 8" into the front rail. The t-bar x got reinforced on 3 sides with ART t-bar caps, plus I added some additional in the exposed areas. Had the floor out. Lots of plug welding, butt welding, lap welding.
 
The springs are now secured in the car. I cleaned off the u-bolts, nuts, washers, plates with a wire brush. After that, got them all in place and cinched down. When I set the car down on the u-bolts, after letting the jack down, I noticed that the right side was way high in the back. Turned out that the shackle flipped forward. Lh was fine. Ran it back up with the jack and tried to figure out how to get the shackle going in the right direction. Then I had a BFO[ blinding flash of the obvious]. Ratchet Straps! Put straps on both shackles to get some pull on them so they would slant back. Let the jack down some, tighten up the straps. All groovy now. Shocks secured. Now I'm like "my wagon has Bilsteins on it". After that I put the brake backing plates on the tubes with some sealer on the backside. I used the bearing retainer flanges from the green units to help spread the load on the plates for now. I put some urethane seam sealer on the top side of the SFC's,where I couldn't get the MIG gun, to stop any water intrusion. Done for the day.

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Today I was able to swap out the rear brake hose then went up front. Removed the battery, tray, braces from the area. Took the p/s belt off the pulley. Got the nuts and top bushings off the front shocks. My cross shaft package for the power lock unit showed up today from Dr Diff. Thank you Cass. I found a couple of 1/4" strap corners that worked fine, after I drilled a hole in each, to allow me to hang the center section on my engine stand. Will tackle the changeout tomorrow and get the unit hung on the housing. Probably get the axles squared away too depending on how the day goes. Also I printed out pictures of the rear brakes to help guide me on the assembly.

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Working away on the center section today. Got the carrier out, split it apart, swapped out the cross shafts, back together, torqued bolts down. Turns out this non oe carrier uses rh threaded bolts, not lefties. I ordered up a set of bolts, assuming they were lefties like the unit I had in my Challenger. Nope! Going to put a post in the for sale section of the items not needed/used. The bolts, spider gears, non drilled cross shaft etc.

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Marked the case halves? Align the splines on assembly? Soaked the clutches?
 
The diff is done and in the housing. It's been quite a few years since I used my dial indicator unit. I think I bought it in the late 70's. Last time it was used was around 97/98 when I put together a 489 unit for my Challenger. Got the backlash back where it was. My neighbor came over and gave me a hand getting it off my engine stand and onto the trans jack. From there, it's in! Will set the axles in tomorrow, get the clearance set on them, put the oil in, set the brakes on and be done back there. Oh, driveshaft on to.

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ckessel said:
The diff is done and in the housing. It's been quite a few years since I used my dial indicator unit. I think I bought it in the late 70's. Last time it was used was around 97/98 when I put together a 489 unit for my Challenger. Got the backlash back where it was. My neighbor came over and gave me a hand getting it off my engine stand and onto the trans jack. From there, it's in! Will set the axles in tomorrow, get the clearance set on them, put the oil in, set the brakes on and be done back there. Oh, driveshaft on to.

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Nice job !!
Mopar2ya!
 
Got the axles in and end play set! Much easier this time as I usually try to do the procedure with the brakes in the way. My FSM says to go for .013-.023 on the endplay. I'm at about .011, but have new bearings etc so I should be fine. Will recheck down the road when I get some miles on. After lunch, going to start loading the brakes on, put oil in and reinstall the driveshaft.

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I didn't get as far as I had hoped, but thats ok. The rh brakes took me awhile to get situated. Got them together, then looked at my pictures and realized I left the e-brake strut off. DOH! Took them back apart partially to remedy that. Lh side went much faster. Tomorrow I'll toss the tires/wheels on and get them adjusted. Also put the gear oil and LSD additive in, plus the driveshaft.

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The back end of the car is a wrap. Other than flushing and bleeding which I'll do when the front is done. Rear brakes have a preliminary adjustment, oil is in, driveshaft on, lug nuts torqued, rubber head protection removed from the muffler clamps. Brakes are a little tight, but it's all new stuff so the fuzz will wear off and the surfaces will settle in. I measured the height to see if there was a change with the new springs and as a prior photo shows, there is about an inch difference in the free height between old and new springs. So I gained an inch for now till the springs settle in.

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