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440 build

I'm not impressed with the Retro Fit hydraulic roller lifters. They are more expensive, and heavier than the solid roller lifters and limit cam lobe profiles, spring choices, and RPM.
If going Roller lifter, I would just use the solid roller lifters, even on a mild lobe profile.
I don't have as much an issue with factory type hydraulic rollers, they are lighter than the retro-fit lifters and cost alot less.
I don't have any issues with good aluminum rocker arms for the street. To me the question is not the material, but the quality. On the Trick Flow 240's I ran the recommended harlan Sharpe rockers and I have the HS rockers on two other engines with no problems. The Charger with the Victor MW heads have the T&D rockers and they have stood up to alot of abuse.
Thank you for the input.
 
I see no problem with a solid roller if you use bushed lifters. Stock stroke and block with 270's is a higher rpm package. 11.5-1 might work on pump gas, might not. I'd follow the TF 240 package recomendation but with a solid roller. If you stick with using a hydraulic roller, make sure you talk to Dwaye Porter first.
Doug
 
EM did a comparison of the 270 to the 240, on a 440. The 270s were better everywhere, including low end torque.
If you're willing to confine yourself to maxwedge port intakes, I'd run the 270s. As head limited as a 440 is, I'd go for the biggest and best heads I could afford. (Just decent aftermarket bbc heads outflow 270s by a pretty good margin. A small oval port is 290cc's, and outflows the 270 by almost 50, and 320 and 360 cc heads are everywhere)
And for a badass street motor with a bigass cam..... solid roller, 100%.
And I'm not a gambler. I'd set the c.r. at 10.5.
Give up 10 or 20 hp for a better chance of running on straight pump gas? In a street car? Yep, I'd do that.
 
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I see no problem with a solid roller if you use bushed lifters. Stock stroke and block with 270's is a higher rpm package. 11.5-1 might work on pump gas, might not. I'd follow the TF 240 package recomendation but with a solid roller. If you stick with using a hydraulic roller, make sure you talk to Dwaye Porter first.
Doug
Thank you for that information
 
EM did a comparison of the 270 to the 240, on a 440. The 270s were better everywhere, including low end torque.
If you're willing to confine yourself to maxwedge port intakes, I'd run the 270s. As head limited as a 440 is, I'd go for the biggest and best heads I could afford. (Just decent aftermarket bbc heads outflow 270s by a pretty good margin. A small oval port is 290cc's, and outflows the 270 by almost 50, and 320 and 360 cc heads are everywhere)
And for a badass street motor with a bigass cam..... solid roller, 100%.
And I'm not a gambler. I'd set the c.r. at 10.5.
Give up 10 or 20 hp for a better chance of running on straight pump gas? In a street car? Yep, I'd do that.
My thoughts exactly on being able to run a badass street motor on pump gas.
 
If you're going with aftermarket rockers, you're most likely going to have to alter the rocker arm geometry. I had a set of Harland Sharpe and a set from Hughes when I built my 440. The Harland ones are taller and will hit the baffle in the valve cover before the Hughes ones will. I went with Hughes. It's a much simpler design, no rollers on the shaft. Mike at B3 Racing Engines is the guy to go to for getting the geometry correct. A couple hundred bucks very well spent if you ask me!
 
If you're going with aftermarket rockers, you're most likely going to have to alter the rocker arm geometry. I had a set of Harland Sharpe and a set from Hughes when I built my 440. The Harland ones are taller and will hit the baffle in the valve cover before the Hughes ones will. I went with Hughes. It's a much simpler design, no rollers on the shaft. Mike at B3 Racing Engines is the guy to go to for getting the geometry correct. A couple hundred bucks very well spent if you ask me!
Thank you, that's some really good information
 
The little crescent moon shaped pieces are what B3 makes to relocate the rocker arm shaft. They make your rocker arm at a 90 degree angle to the valve stem at the mid-point of valve lift. Mine had to be shifted up and in but every build is gonna be a bit different.

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