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My new to me 64 Polara

I seem to be on a roll buying a few old (quality) parts lately. I was looking at lower ball joints which are on my to-do list. I used to sell TRW which were top notch. I just bought a chassis parts catalog so I can look the numbers up. I have a TRW Performance parts catalog for engine parts. I also have a few Filko Ignition parts catalogs for all that good stuff.
 
Hey @icetech, I tried a little trick I heard from you. You used the fuzzy side of Velcro in your window channels. My seals are completely gone and the door glass rattles really bad. I had some white Velcro (wrong color but just an experiment) I cut a couple of 2" long pieces and stuck them in the channel and rolled the window up. Rattle 99% gone! Just a test that worked.

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toolmanmike said:
Hey @icetech, I tried a little trick I heard from you. You used the fuzzy side of Velcro in your window channels. My seals are completely gone and the door glass rattles really bad. I had some white Velcro (wrong color but just an experiment) I cut a couple of 2" long pieces and stuck them in the channel and rolled the window up. Rattle 99% gone! Just a test that worked.

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awesome... And i think i got that trick from Khryslerkid... i can't stand doors that rattle when they close, if you do the whole channel make sure to use something to hold the velcro really tight in place while the adhesive sets up, my drivers one gets hard to roll up bout 3/4 of the way
 
I drove around and took some fall pics yesterday. The ol' girl makes me smile.

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Terry1213 said:
I paid $2500 for my 64 earlier this year. 383/727 8 3/4. The guy completely rebuilt everything except the interior and body, but it wouldn't crank. It sat for 7 years. He finally gave up and wanted it gone. I bought it and found the connector between the shifter cable and the rooster comb wasn't installed. No gear changes are possible without it, so no way to activate the neutral safety switch. A&A Transmission in Ohio had one. Drive it all the time.

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If you decide to do an interior, I'm really happy with the seat covers I got from Legendary. Mine is the bench seat. Yours looks to be the 500 with the front buckets.

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SlingLow said:
If you decide to do an interior, I'm really happy with the seat covers I got from Legendary. Mine is the bench seat. Yours looks to be the 500 with the front buckets.

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Home made upholstery not done too bad. The seats are uncomfortable and the upholstery is thick and stiff. I may buy seat foam and upholstery and next year get the door panels. Your's looks great.
 
It doesn't look bad but it sets like a cement block.

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I have been on a NORS parts kick lately since I straightened out my ignition system. I sold Filko Ignition back in the 70's so that's what I buy. I have 3 catalogs and I look for parts on the internet. I have oil pressure and water temp senders, an ignition switch, starter relays and extra electronic ignition ECU's. That reminds me, I need to get a ballast resistor or two. Hoppy fixed me up with a magnetic Puck up for inside the distributor.

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Ignition from Hoppy..jpg


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Now, let's switch gears to suspension. I had the alignment checked earlier this year and the tech said the lower ball joints are pretty worn. Well, I used to sell TRW at the parts store so I found a catalog on E bay and I did some shopping today. Hey, I found some nice lowers and 2 uppers as well. All TRW and all Made in the USA.

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toolmanmike said:
Now, let's switch gears to suspension. I had the alignment checked earlier this year and the tech said the lower ball joints are pretty worn. Well, I used to sell TRW at the parts store so I found a catalog on E bay and I did some shopping today. Hey, I found some nice lowers and 2 uppers as well. All TRW and all Made in the USA.

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Are you selling some of them?? I need a water temp sensor for my 64 Polara. The one I bought has resistance readings from 675 cold to 90 hot. I understand the correct readings should be around 90 to 10.
 
Terry1213 said:
Are you selling some of them?? I need a water temp sensor for my 64 Polara. The one I bought has resistance readings from 675 cold to 90 hot. I understand the correct readings should be around 90 to 10.
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Correct Ohm reading on a 68/70F shop temperature sender should be about 360 ohms. Once the engine heats up the gauge will read correctly as it goes through it's 72 or so ohm "cold" (gauge just starting to move) to 10 ohm full "hot" on the gauge.
 
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