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1974 Roadrunner Re-Paint and Some Upgrades

metal fabrication and hammer and dolly work beats bondo every time. It's crazy some of the really straight cars I've seen that were built from a can, they look good when they go out the door but your days are numbered once you buy one.
You can’t completely eliminate filler. It needs to be sealed correctly. That’s what gets missed and paint starts peeling and bubbling a year later.
 
You can’t completely eliminate filler. It needs to be sealed correctly. That’s what gets missed and paint starts peeling and bubbling a year later.
filler makes up for not straight metal, you can straighten metal to a very high level with time, patience and skill. It's typically not feasible to not use filler but that will always be a potential point of failure. Proper prep work and quality products minimize that drastically. Polyester type high build primers are a good option once you get the metal straight or your bodywork if you are using filler. Sealers or DTM primers or epoxy primers can be used but it's always best to use a singular product line and go with their desired sequence. Every body man I've known has their preferred method from bare metal to paint. I'm a big proponent of having straight metal from the beginning and keeping filler to an absolute minimum when at all possible. Look into a shrinking or phenolic disk. You can do wonders with a hammer and dolly and a shrinking disk if you have the patience and desire not to use fillers. It all comes down to the desired results and the effort that is acceptable. None of my comments are meant to sway your project, it's your project, I'm just mentioning some of the things we do or have done depending on the desired outcome.
 
After shifting the door around more the bottom gap on passenger side is 1/2" along the rocker panel. There is a larger gap on drivers door about 2 feet parallel to rocker panel gets larger than front of door gap. Both corner rear bottom gaps suck! Time for more metal work. Going to add round stock to the doors to close gaps.

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It's coming along great! The door gaps on my car were a nightmare to get right. I ended up spending about a week on them while we were rebuilding our '74.
 
filler makes up for not straight metal, you can straighten metal to a very high level with time, patience and skill. It's typically not feasible to not use filler but that will always be a potential point of failure. Proper prep work and quality products minimize that drastically. Polyester type high build primers are a good option once you get the metal straight or your bodywork if you are using filler. Sealers or DTM primers or epoxy primers can be used but it's always best to use a singular product line and go with their desired sequence. Every body man I've known has their preferred method from bare metal to paint. I'm a big proponent of having straight metal from the beginning and keeping filler to an absolute minimum when at all possible. Look into a shrinking or phenolic disk. You can do wonders with a hammer and dolly and a shrinking disk if you have the patience and desire not to use fillers. It all comes down to the desired results and the effort that is acceptable. None of my comments are meant to sway your project, it's your project, I'm just mentioning some of the things we do or have done depending on the desired outcome.

It is surprising what is possible with time, patience, hammer, and dolly. Back in 2009 my buddy hit a deer with my '74 and I ended up cutting out the spot welds on the front of the fender so that I could get behind it and remove the crease it caused. No one will ever see it, but it is nice knowing that there is almost zero filler in that spot. (Ignore my ugly tack welds)

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It is surprising what is possible with time, patience, hammer, and dolly. Back in 2009 my buddy hit a deer with my '74 and I ended up cutting out the spot welds on the front of the fender so that I could get behind it and remove the crease it caused. No one will ever see it, but it is nice knowing that there is almost zero filler in that spot. (Ignore my ugly tack welds)

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Time , patience, and determination. It doesn’t even take skill, the skill is being able to do it quickly. Good Job!!!
 
They shoved seam sealer all down in the door. Drivers side.
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Rear bottom of drivers door, wasn't terrible. But, it had rust.

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I think we're good on passenger and drivers lower door after looking inside at back of door panel. Most of the rust was at the bottom door frame.

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It is going to be so cool seeing this car finished and going over all of the little cleanup and smoothing operations you're taking in areas like the engine compartment and underside.
 
How did you cut out and make the inner structure? So glad you found this before you went farther.
 
I ordered a 74 Rr brand new. 400 4spd heavy duty suspension. B5 blue white stripe white bucket seat console deluxe interior. 3:55 gears no PS no AC. I never drove the car on a dirt road. $4002.00 being 16 years old I just couldn’t stop spinning the day two L60 tires and aluminum slots. I blew the motor at 1,600 miles racing a 68 302 Z28. I just beat the living snot out of the mechanicals of that car. I learned alot how to fix Mopars because as soon as it was out of warranty I had to fix it all myself outside on ramps. I raised chickens to sell and loaded chickens at night for money. Dang good money but dirty. People have asked me many times what is my favorite car. The answer is always my 74 because I have never seen another like it. (Yet) I traded it even up for a 69 350cu 350 horse 4spd Corvette because I just flat out was tired of working on it. By then I put a 383 magnum in it because the 400 had 12.5 to one pistons in it and it knocked like a diesel. I kept the pistons because I hope to someday duplicate that engine and fix the knock. That car ended up totaled an crushedand probably came back as someone sheet metal! Boy do I like what you are doing. Keep up the fantastic work.
 
I ordered a 74 Rr brand new. 400 4spd heavy duty suspension. B5 blue white stripe white bucket seat console deluxe interior. 3:55 gears no PS no AC. I never drove the car on a dirt road. $4002.00 being 16 years old I just couldn’t stop spinning the day two L60 tires and aluminum slots. I blew the motor at 1,600 miles racing a 68 302 Z28. I just beat the living snot out of the mechanicals of that car. I learned alot how to fix Mopars because as soon as it was out of warranty I had to fix it all myself outside on ramps. I raised chickens to sell and loaded chickens at night for money. Dang good money but dirty. People have asked me many times what is my favorite car. The answer is always my 74 because I have never seen another like it. (Yet) I traded it even up for a 69 350cu 350 horse 4spd Corvette because I just flat out was tired of working on it. By then I put a 383 magnum in it because the 400 had 12.5 to one pistons in it and it knocked like a diesel. I kept the pistons because I hope to someday duplicate that engine and fix the knock. That car ended up totaled an crushedand probably came back as someone sheet metal! Boy do I like what you are doing. Keep up the fantastic work.
Cool story. Not many 16 year olds could go out and buy a new car. $4000 was a lot of money in 1974.
 
You are correct about that amount of money. I worked raising chickens from age 12 to 18 in buildings my dad owned. My labor for 9 to 21 weeks with no pay. Then after birds were sold and pens were cleaned out, all expenses paid, the profit was split 50 50 with dad and me. Not every flock made good money but I made enough to pay cash for that car. Dad had a fleet of vehicles so the car insurance was in moms name. That was a huge savings to me in those days. A buddy an I loaded the trucks that took them to the plant on Sunday night and got $30.00 to split for one truck and $45.00 if it was 2 trucks. Heck that money paid our gas to run around all week in those days. Different times.
 
When you get the door to fender gap dialed in on the top edge, in the curvature make sure you post a couple of good pictures. I think that is a weird gap from the factory and I’m curious as to what you do with it.
 
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