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For pump gas if the compression is on the high end for the octane we often make the split 8 or more. I think it depends a lot on how well the exhaust flows. It is different also with a full exhaust on a street car. When you add more duration on the exhaust it allows the engine to pump more...

...changes when you compare the seat timing or the .050” timing. An example is a Comp cams retro fit thumper cam. Those thumper cams the LSA is 107*, but it has a 14* E/I split at .050”, it has the equivalent LSA @.050” of a 103.5* LSA single pattern cam @.050”. It has less acceleration on...

...engines is for single pattern cams. When you add more exhaust duration to the cam and keep overlap the same the LSA always becomes wider. So with 8* extra exhaust duration like those Elgin grinds that equation should really use 130 instead of 128. But then all the other overlap, compression...

We went that direction with a lot of our cars, still have some set up with tighter LSA’s, some single patterns. We got to the point on some cars that all more mid range push was going to do was make them hard to hook up, especially on the street. We went to bigger cams, bigger E/I splits, 8 to...

...size in a 440 using the same Elgin profile on a 105 LSA. If you took that 256/264 Elgin profile from the SBC and widened the LSA out to 108* on the 440, it would not only make more power in the 440 than the 264/272 105 LSA I mentioned, it would also likely do it with less head flow. We have...

.030” below the deck sound correct to me for 1970. Seems like I recall the 70 383 and 440s were about .030” to .040”shorter than the 68 and 69. Our 383 is set up with pistons that are .004” from zero deck, and has the heads milled .070” to 72cc. It is just barely over 10. Not many factory...

If they only made fenders for a Coronet. That is more frustrating than the price. Lol

I think there are several factors present on cam failures. For the most part, if you loose one lifter or two, either right after break in, or after several thousand miles, but after the failure, the rest of the cam looks good, that is either soft metal or improper machining on those lobes that...

I think HR5 is pretty much as good as it gets in these old street driven engines with flat tappet cams. I once drained the oil on an engine that had a zddp additive in it, the zddp additive came out first, then the oil. Not exactly what you hope for with an zddp additive. Lol

They really went for it on the EV top speed! Hope that isn’t correct lol

Next week on the Dukes of Hazard…

Every episode of the Dukes would be the same..the sheriff just goes down to arrest them while the general is charging up at the farm!

The zddp is suppose to reinforce the film thickness on the metal. If your driving your car too the point that the zddp is gone, you went way past your oil change, especially if that is for the cam break in. If your adding a zddp additive to your oil after the break in, sending the oil samples...

To check all the boxes properly for street, drag racing and road course type handling it needs to be AWD for that much HP. I would use a proven solid axle in the back and focus on powering the front axle thru a IFS set up like a rally car.

Dang! Having something happen in an airplane thousands of feet off the ground is all kinds of scarry! On a car with a mechanical and electric pusher pump that you need the fuel pressure only for wide open bursts you can wire in a WOT switch. The electric pump rarely runs then, no worries...

If it is already wired up I would absolute leave it and run both. Get a check valve system to bypass like the pic, add a electric switch to turn in off separately. Then you have a back up when the mechanical pump craps out, don’t have to run it if you don’t need it, but you can prime the engine...

I have had great luck with systems like that. Carter sells a check valve set up that lets the mechanical pump bypass the electric pump when it is shut off. I run one. The mechanical pump will also pull thru some electric pumps with almost no restrictions with the electric pump shut off...

The Engle’s grind would have (about) 8* more duration if you converted it’s seat specs from .008” to .006”. 9014 would run around 40* overlap at .006” tappet. For most the smaller Engle Mopar grinds add 52* to the .050” number gets you close to the more common .006” rating that most cam...

440 in a late model..Your a wild man! Very cool.