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Well, you won't find "speed rated" 15" tires, that's for sure

Nice. That should do it

I don't see a problem with it. The 727 is a strong transmission. Maybe just add a special transmission pan that will make sure you keep the transmission fluid flowing in the corners & add a large external transmission cooler

Sorry....just checking.....you have a roll bar, right?

The builder is red-green color blind and didn't notice?

Beautiful! I will take two please....one Tor Red & the other Lemon Twist

Most of them.....pthalate esters are "seal swell" chemicals + pthalate esters are often used in DOT3 brake fluid....not necessarily the exact same phthalate esters, but similar chemicals.

In general, these type of "seal swell" products contain chemicals which are slightly incompatible with rubber & make it swell. It doesn't really "stick" to anything, it is absorbed by the rubber seals. Now, if the seals are just worn on the I.D. from wear or have a tiny little nick in them...

No column is better than the factory column in my opinion. Just put in a new upper bearing & lower bushing + buy a "no column shift" collar from Tony's Parts....my 2-cents. Also, maybe buy 3 new "weird plastic spacer clips" where the column bolts up under the dash too. Those always seem to...

If you want a factory "slap stick" shifter & console, then you need to remove the "4spd hump" & block it off (a patch from another tunnel or sheet metal) & add a bracket or two for the automatic shifter/console to bolt up. IF you can live with an aftermarket shifter, I bet you can leave the...

What headers do you have now? When I used to run the 2" primary big tubes, I found that I got about 2" more ground clearance with Hooker vs. Heddman.

In my humble opinion, it depends on how fast you think you'll go at the track. I believe a roll bar is required on a hardtop at 11.49sec/quarter mile or faster. If you think you'll go that fast, then NHRA requires a main hoop, a cross bar behind the seats (where the seat belts attach), two...

It has to be easier & cheaper than swapping a k-member

Tim, with your background I think you can answer this question better than any of us...seriously

It's up to you, but keep in mind that tires are bad after 5-6 yrs. (?) or so regardless of how much tread is left on them... the rubber just deteriorates.

They do sell electric remote bottle openers... it would take 2-3 seconds, so maybe that's too long a wait. For an extra $10,000 you can build a blower motor.

My 2-cents.... if you want it run EXACTLY like it does now, go with the giggle gas. Just some pistons & a little this-n-that and you'd have what you're looking for in my humble opinion.

I'd ballpark a 383 long-block core at around $400-$500. I honestly think you should rebuilt what you have. Turn down the crank if necessary, recondition the rods using high-strength rod bolts, assuming you have to bore the block, pick some higher compression forged pistons, install a little...

Freaking incredible Joe.....beautiful car!

pistons? rods? crank? block mods? cam specs? carb or efi? If carb, what mods? Anything else "unusual" you had to do to set it up for a procharger? Thanks