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Guy I know had a ton of problems with a 55 Chevy w/LS at the track. Turned out to be the sump deal in the Tanks, Inc. tank running out of fuel at top end of track. I have one in my efi 55 but it's just a 400hp street car.
Looking for a couple recommendations on spark plugs for a mild race build. Just to get break-in and dyno done without issue.
400/470 Stroker
Flat Top Pistons .004 in the hole
0.040" MLS Head Gasket
Performer RPM Heads - Ported
Approx .615" Lift Solid Lifter Cam
Trick Flow Single Plane Intake...
I have a similar but you pull the vacuum from the bleeder screw. Problem with that is as you loosen the bleeder screw it likes to draw air past threads so you have to remove them and thread tape first. Bit of a hassle. May have to see if I can invest in some covers for the master and bleed in...
The "ecu" for the Sniper is inside the front bowl of the unit. Your "high voltage" coil is inches away. Personally, I wouldn't like that. Also, coils are susceptible to fail from heat and vibration. Thus one of the reasons we try to get all that stuff off the motor.
If using the wizard and not a specific "tune", I believe the initial setup can affect idle as well. I redid mine in the beginning and went back to "Stock Cam" in the settings. It ran/idled much better. The small block has around a .490 cam in it for reference. Guessing it has to do with vacuum...
Didn't watch that video but have you tried the "duct tape" method to set the IAC? Worked great for me. Basically you cover the iac port with duct tape, start up and adjust idle to 50rpm to below the idle rpm you want. Shut down. Remove the tape and restart. Idle will go up into the range you...
This is one of the "shields" I mentioned. Notice the ford in the pic. More of an issue typically for those guys. May/may not help.
https://www.redline-motorsports.com/products/rf-shield