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I've done it and seen it done a lot on the dirt track circuit where hydraulic lifter rules are in place. We never had issues. I don't know how they would do in a low rpm street car.

I know this is an old thread but I have direct experience so here are my thoughts. First, of course you have to cut it. You'd be stupid not to know that right out of the gate. Secondly, once cut, it is NOT a two piece seal. It's still very much a one piece seal. You simply "coil it" on to...

Never have thought of measuring that. I can say from experience that it's a ton more than .060". On Fords with studs made on the converter, you usually have enough room to remove the nuts and totally disengage the studs from the flex plate. The studs are usually either 3/4" or 1" depending on...

I would think as long as the oil grooves and oil holes are in the same place on the different lifters that it will be ok. That said, cheaping out" is not something I recommend on a roller engine.

I like the Mopar cams. Have used a lot of them. They are hard to map., Just ask Herb McCandless. He's mapped all of them and found that they do not measure as advertised. I think Mopar did this on purpose. They "say" they use .850 for instance, instead of .750 to figure duration @.050"...

V block it on the bench and measure the lift with a dial indicator. That should give an indication of the general size of the cam. In other words, if it's .480 lift, it's a safe bet it aint got 250 duration @ .050.

I've always done 2 turns on both and never had a problem.

I agree. The Weiand Action Plus is a much better starting point, IMO. Now, you can make a nice improvement on the Performer by adding a 1" open spacer if you have the hood room.

The Y and 9 mean nothing as far as the type of case. If the last three digits are 489, it's a 489.

I don't see how they are "big chevy" rockers since they are 1.72 ratio stock. The red and blue remind me of the Pro Comp rockers or something similar. I would certainly measure the lift at the valve retainer when you assemble them to make sure.

They were bought out by S&S Cycles and S&S doubled the prices on everything. rat bastards.

Another cam is a better deal and the right way to do it.

The TransGo TF2 is a good one.

Is your face blue yet?

Meh, I think they're overpriced old school technology when there are such lifters as the Rhoads V-MAX and all of the other direct oiling lifters available today. I don't think I would build a flat tappet cam engine now unless I could get some type of direct oil on the cam lobes. Read about the...

If you are running adjustable rockers, the MP 528/284 solid is an EXCELLENT choice for what you are looking for.

IMHO, without a cruch sleeve eliminator, the 489 is the weaker of the two. However, when a crush sleeve eliminator is used in the 498, it is somewhat stronger, I believe. That said, I've been around cars turning wrenches since 1974 and have yet to see a broken pinion on any of the three cases. I...

I forget.....is this an iron head motor? If so, stick some aluminum heads on it and a bigger cam in it. Band aid or not, it'll work.

Everything is a compromise. A windage tray keeps oil off the crank but also stops needed splash lubrication from the rest of the bottom end. Run one if you want to, but I honestly don't think it's necessary.