• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

1962 Header Help

So a little off topic but still regarding doing our own thing, here's something different. Removing anodizing has always been a brutal and labor intensive job. Up till today. I stripped all the anodizing off these pieces in no time flat.

View attachment 404923

I used 100% Lye Crystals mixed up in water and dropped the pieces in and watched it go to work. Adding about 4 tablespoons to a gallon of cold water, mix, let it heat up and drop in the pieces. I actually shot the water temp with my heat gun. It went from 57F to 76F in a few minutes. I can sure see why they say NOT to add to hot water.. Hope this tip helps.
Neat idea. What kind of fumes are being produced if any. Should it be done outside?
 
Neat idea. What kind of fumes are being produced if any. Should it be done outside?

No, it wasn't noticable at all. I had 1 door open about a foot but no, it was ok. I tell you, I've scrubbed and scraped for hours with oven cleaner and that **** does stink. This was a piece of cake. I used an old tooth brush a couple of times for a bit of brushing when I'd flip the parts. But like 15 - 20 minutes was plenty.

You can see it working in this pic.
IMG_1015.JPG


In this picture you can see where there was a touch of old black paint that just floated away.
IMG_1017.JPG
 
I'll remember that when I go to clean up my sill plates! I hate oven cleaner. You get a speck of that on you, you really feel it, plus the fumes.

Thanks for sharing :thumbsup:
 
Where ya going NUTCASE?

It's my thread and I say you can stay! There's not too many threads where we can sit around and have some good conversation, no matter what the topic might be. I was just thinking about how this thread has found a new direction today and thought it was a great thing to be doing this.

I'm still waiting on the starter, the bad weather placed all of the shipments around here a day or two behind schedule, so shooting the fat is ok with me. It might be Monday before I'll get my results on the fitment. The garage takes too much to heat when it gets in the 20's outside anyway. Come on April!
Love the twists and turns, And it's right here for your reading pleasure. Best thing is.... this doesn't cost anything!! You Guys crack me Up!! Don't go changing!!
 
I agree in the build rather than buy.That's part of the fun. I use at least 75% used stuff. When someone asks you who built it, you'll be able to tell them, me.
Doug

downsized950112001642.jpg 0407131235.jpg
 
I agree Central Pennsylvania sucks in the winter. I heat my garage with oil . When it's 20° out if I get it to 50 I'm lucky and it doesn't stay there long. Every tool is cold, The floor is cold so your feet get cold just no fun!
 
Oh yeah, we were talking headers.

Received the regular mini starter today. The difference between the Jegs width is only 1/8".
So I'm going to do a little massaging on that tube. Maybe next week, this weekend got all booked up somehow!
20170317_204928.jpg

20170317_200815.jpg
 
Why is the top mounting hole so large on these starters? Is it for adjusting the bendix gear to flywheel ring clearance?
 
Why is the top mounting hole so large on these starters? Is it for adjusting the bendix gear to flywheel ring clearance?
The nose locates the starter. The only reason I can think of for the large hole is there may be a dowel used for the original factory application.
Doug
 
The nose locates the starter. The only reason I can think of for the large hole is there may be a dowel used for the original factory application.
Doug
When I have the bolts almost snugged up, I can still get some top play (starter to flywheel). The seat in the bell housing looks good.

IIRC I have seen a sleeve inside of a starter bolt hole before or maybe on the stud itself. I might just use one to center it up, then check the witness mark on the painted ring gear at a later date.
 
Why is the top mounting hole so large on these starters?
I've always figured it gives play, to allow the line-up lug at the tail end of the starter, to go into the receiving bore in the trans housing.

Great thread! Kills some cold times, and good info to boot!
 
Bought some plumbing, I'll need another two feet in front of the mufflers but it's a DIY starting point. Jegs has a good selection.
20170318_112334.jpg

20170317_124040.jpg
 
Hey Kid what about the cable? Will it take the heat?
I need to make a bracket, off of the lower starter bolt, to hold it centered through the tubes. I bought some heat shield like they use on plug wires and some aluminum heat shield to use over that.
 
Hhey kid on mine are used a short cable and Kept tight to the transmission housing if you are using an aftermarket shifter. When I bought my first 65 the cable was not as close as yours to the headers and it melted the outside takes five driving it was fine but if I left it sitting idol and melted
 
I plan on useing a bracket, off of the bottom starter bolt, to hold the cable in the center of the tubes. That way the cable won't be laying on or touching a tube.

Also, while the cable isn't attached to the shifter, I'm going to slide a piece of thermal protective sleeve, like they use on sparkplug wires, over the cable and a larger aluminum flex sleeve over that.
20170329_223622.jpg


The problem I've ran into with these headers, is the collector tube is really long, about six inches from the transmission cross member. They don't line up with the indentations either. You really don't have enough room to redirect your pipe in that short of a space. I'm still trying to work that one out.
20170329_225954.jpg

20170329_225826.jpg
 
Last edited:
welcome to the club this is what I used. Summit
Hedman Universal Header X-Tensions 18701
I plan on useing a bracket, off of the bottom starter bolt, to hold the cable in the center of the tubes. That way the cable won't be laying on or touching a tube.

Also, while the cable isn't attached to the shifter, I'm going to slide a piece of thermal protective sleeve, like they use on sparkplug wires, over the cable and a larger aluminum flex sleeve over that.
View attachment 408817

The problem I've ran into with these headers, is the collector tube is really long, about six inches from the transmission cross member. They don't line up with the indentations either. You really don't have enough room to redirect your pipe in that short of a space. I'm still trying to work that one out.
View attachment 408818
View attachment 408819
!

hed-18804_w_500.jpg
 
Last edited:
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top