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1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2

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Partially Mark. I see from the first picture that the automatic only has the oil switch wire plugged into that quick connect and then taped to the starter cable.. where does that gray wire run across to get to the oil pressure switch?.. as mine also has the two reverse wires taped to the oil wire so they all are intended to run the same path to the back of the engine. I also see as I suspected that this reproduction cable was made longer than it should be, as I have extra from the battery to the bracket (and I won't be able to go that route once I put a script battery with caps in) and also enough cable length to pull it up into the wheel well harness retainers.... although I see in the one picture that AR67GTX posted the battery/starter cable is up and retained by one of the plastic clips, but the car also has an aftermarket battery in it so it may not be a factory harness either...ffs... LOL
 
Wayne when you had the cluster out you didn't mention that there is a strip of steel spanning thee 3 top holes. Did you have that strip? Just wondering
Now that I look at the picture with the tape on both ends... it IS holding that strip of steel. Wonder what was with the tape, but never gave it a second look as it was obviously factory.
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Partially Mark. I see from the first picture that the automatic only has the oil switch wire plugged into that quick connect and then taped to the starter cable.. where does that gray wire run across to get to the oil pressure switch?.. as mine also has the two reverse wires taped to the oil wire so they all are intended to run the same path to the back of the engine. I also see as I suspected that this reproduction cable was made longer than it should be, as I have extra from the battery to the bracket (and I won't be able to go that route once I put a script battery with caps in) and also enough cable length to pull it up into the wheel well harness retainers.... although I see in the one picture that AR67GTX posted the battery/starter cable is up and retained by one of the plastic clips, but the car also has an aftermarket battery in it so it may not be a factory harness either...ffs... LOL


It’s hard to get a good camera shot there, but the oil pressure wire and your b/u wiring split before the starter and head up to the oil pressure switch encased in a thinner cloth insulation covering. From the oil pressure switch, the wires will head down the bellhousing and secured with the three finger clips on the side of the transmission housing.

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Here's a picture I just found of my repro 68 Hemi 4speed wiring harness. You can see the where the wiring harness splits and the oil pressure wire is hanging. The back up wiring is just draped across the firewall out of the way. The difference on my 66 is that there is another piece of insulation covering from the split to the pressure wire.


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Okay thanks... so if that's the case on a manual trans harness as well the wires were definitely made too short, no way they could stay along the starter cable and make it even to the oil switch let alone the trans switch.

Edited to add, thanks for that '68 shot. So MAYBE I have the wires running in the correct place, maybe I just need to swing the heavy cable to the starter over towards the steering column and take the extra cable out of the wiring clip.. that I didn't break YET. ffs.. THANKS!

OH.. and I see I'm missing another starter cable bracket off the rocker cover or head bolt back corner?
 
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I have a 4-speed and there is nothing of original assembly left on my car. But FWIW I have the small cable running under the column and then back up slightly and hooked under a firewall clip that supports the brake line, before running to the oil switch, etc. Looks natural but maybe not OEM.
 
Okay thanks... so if that's the case on a manual trans harness as well the wires were definitely made too short, no way they could stay along the starter cable and make it even to the oil switch let alone the trans switch.

Edited to add, thanks for that '68 shot. So MAYBE I have the wires running in the correct place, maybe I just need to swing the heavy cable to the starter over towards the steering column and take the extra cable out of the wiring clip.. that I didn't break YET. ffs.. THANKS!

OH.. and I see I'm missing another starter cable bracket off the rocker cover or head bolt back corner?


Stick with me Wayne, I’ll get your car straightened out.


:lol:
 
Okay thanks... so if that's the case on a manual trans harness as well the wires were definitely made too short, no way they could stay along the starter cable and make it even to the oil switch let alone the trans switch.

Edited to add, thanks for that '68 shot. So MAYBE I have the wires running in the correct place, maybe I just need to swing the heavy cable to the starter over towards the steering column and take the extra cable out of the wiring clip.. that I didn't break YET. ffs.. THANKS!

OH.. and I see I'm missing another starter cable bracket off the rocker cover or head bolt back corner?
And there are two lengths of those brackets - a long and a short one. I wasn’t sure which I needed so I made a guess and made my own up and dipped it. Worked fine so far and I haven’t gotten around to buying a repro one.
 
And there are two lengths of those brackets - a long and a short one. I wasn’t sure which I needed so I made a guess and made my own up and dipped it. Worked fine so far and I haven’t gotten around to buying a repro one.
What is the bracket attached to??
 
I tried to find a picture of mine to refresh my memory but couldn’t locate one. So my unrefreshed memory is a bolt in an unused threaded hole in the rear of the head. Probably the same hole used to mount the alternator on the front of the right head. Of course I added it to my car so I can’t be sure that’s OEM correct but it works well to hold the wire harness away from the manifold. I’ll take a closer look at my car.
 
This is why you never throw anything out. Old aged clip with one end that is missing a usable tab, so I cut the good end off.
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Popped that good end into the retainer hole to hold the broken clip back in place and then some Gator super glue.
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All fixed up and you'd never know one was broken if I hadn't told you.
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Figured I may as well use the rest of that clip I cut to fix the most forward one. It still had the "stud" in the hole but was missing about 3/4" of the body.
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Glue to the "stud" edge and the overlap and clamped with hemostates for a few minutes.
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Back to functional and again unnoticeable repair beside the battery.
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Installation now looks pretty neat and it's going to stay as is. Interacting with other '66 Hemi owners here on FBBO has determined that the reverse / oil wires do take the short cut under the master cylinder. Possibly not exactly the way I have it, but it's close and functional so we move on.
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Installing the tachometer I got from "Santa" before Christmas, so I can get a real comparison on RPM vs the sound of the beast... so I don't blow it up! Once I get use to sound vs RPM I'll probably take the tach back out.
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Was nice that the last owner simply cut the wires from his tachometer install and taped them all together to be found up under the dash. All wires still hooked up to power, light circuit and ignition coil.
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All hooked up and it works. Just waiting for the worm gear clamp to dry after spraying it with black trim paint, then I can clamp it to the steering column.
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Pulled out the NOS tail light lenses that I bought from Tony's Parts last Spring @ $250US each.
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Damn near **** myself when I saw RH on the "left hand" lense and then remember that's the car line VIN codes first two digits and not which side they go on. Both Left and Right lenses are branded the same STD B 66RH
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Actual part numbers Left side #2585099
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Right side #2585100
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Sounds like you have it figured out, but in case you want to see mine, I zoomed in on a pic that I have. The car isn't accessible to me right now. It's stored away for the winter at a friend's place.

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Here's a better picture of the clip. Interesting how it's just flopping out in space like that.

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Thanks, I don't see the three wires exiting the starter cable tape up, so can only assume that they're down there below the column or closer to the block and then up like RC was describing.

My repro was no where near long enough to go that route. I think part of that issue was they taped it together with too much wire up top at the quick connect plug, but I'm not taking it apart again! Thanks all for playin.... car starts and the reverse lights work! Oil wire will never be hooked up...
 
This shows more but it's as far down as I have. Disregard the random blue wire. It was left behind by a previous owner.

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Okay perfect! There is the triple wire popping out of the tape and up behind the block, presumably into the brake line clip then up. Maybe I'll see what I can do to get mine closer to OE when I get the tail lights and master cylinder done. THANKS!!
 
Glad it helped. I took those pictures before I replaced my positive cable after I had the starter rebuilt.
Here's another interesting tidbit and a couple of pics of my starter after I got it back and all cleaned up. The orange paint seems to indicate that the starter was attached to the engine when the engine was painted. Frank Badalson told me there is some evidence that the starter was attached to 4 speed Hemis when they were painted, but not certain. He was very interested in these pics.

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