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1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2

8 months of seaching, from time to time, and this kit popped up on ebay to rebuild the master cylinder... or so I hope. Stated it was for a 1" bore so I took a shot that it is correct, for 20 bucks + 15 shipping!

From the FSM the parts look correct in the kit.
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Another what "gearwrenches" were designed for. Removing the brake pedal to master cylinder push rod bolt. 3/4" on the head, 5/8" on the nut.
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Now to get the 4 x 1/2" nuts that hold the master in place.
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3 successfully extracted using a 1/2" deep socket and two "wobble" extensions.
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With the clutch pedal/rod/etc in the way, this was how I got the top left nut. Knew I bought these "crows feet" 30 some years ago for an upcoming job!
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Making sure there's no more lost paint to spilled brake fluid. Cardboard jammed in place below the master and tube wrenches to seperate the master adapter fitting and brake line.
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Master out and brake line capped. You can see how wet the firewall is where brake fluid was weeping out the back of the master cylinder and down into the interior.
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Comparison of the OE I removed and the reproduction I had bought to originally do the job. Looks like I ordered the correct one and my OE is missing it's return spring! Guess I'll be stealing that from the new one. The brake fluid rotted the rubber boot, but there's a new one in the rebuild kit.
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Two bolts out of the piston retainer and out comes the spool attached to the push rod by it's rubber "keeper".
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The other seal, spring, valve and seal wouldn't fall out, so I removed the adapter fitting and used some tweezers to push everything out.
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How about that, I ordered the correct 1" kit !!
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Seal, spring and valve. Something is still missing according to the factory service manual (FSM).
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All of the parts but one.
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OE casting part #2781821 and R24
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If I hadn't read the FSM I wouldn't have gone looking.
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That's a rubber seal down in the bore.
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Seal successfully extracted.
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Soaking for the night in some gas.
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Turns out the guy I bought the K256 rebuild kit also has this K260 kit that has a PB in it's description, so maybe Power Brakes and a different diameter, but I'd like the spring and gasket either way.. so bought them both so I'm covered.
Making sure the relief hole is clear with 2 strands of wire.
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Just happened to have a 15/16 counterbore that I can use to clean up the crusty looking front seal face. The 1" bore is also in need of a honing.
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Hand turned to clean up the seal face.
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That's better.
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Just happen to have a brake cylinder hone that I use to clean up telescopic tubes when building landing gear struts. Most old school mechanics have one in their tool box...
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Into the bore and the adjuster snugged up a bit.
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In and out while running the drill. Checking the bore after each few strokes to see if the imperfections are gone.
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Ain't that nice. Measures at about 1.0015 to 1.0022. FSM states 0.002 over is allowable so should be fine.
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Been yaking with others as to whether the lid was plain, plated or painted. The underside shows it certainly wasn't plated.
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Bent up a scrap brake line tube that I had so I can bench bleed the master before putting it on. Came up a bit short on length so will add some clear hose to make the bowl to see any air bubbles. Media blasting the casting and lid clean is up next...
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Figure I'm this far in I may as well remove the brake master cylinder reinforcing plate, to clean up and get all the leaked brake fluid mess cleaned up. Note that the top left stud end still has body colour paint on it from the factory paint line.
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Ah the joys of a design done by a guy that never did repair work. Easy enough to bolt the pedals in before the dash is installed, but not so easy afterwards. I've pulled many 4 speed pedal assemblies in junk yards with minimal tools, this one gave me the biggest fight to date.
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Usually you can jam washers in between the curls on the clutch pedal "over center" spring and then push the pedal to the floor and get enough slack to remove the spring retainer pin. Then there's enough access to the nut that's above that pin to use a wrench.
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Jammed as many washers in as I could and a no go on this one.
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Plan B... 12" wobble extension and a 1/2" deep socket over the top and got it on the nut.
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Got the ratchet on to find it was the tightest nut in history, almost thought it was cross threaded. I fought it a turn or two and then went and found my air ratchet that thankfully turned it out... still haven't found where the nut went!
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One nut on the top stud that's welded to the firewall.
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Original captive washer nut.
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Black is almost flat, just a very light semigloss.
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Original gasket soaked in brake fluid. Note the gasket is almost like cloth, not a thicker foam like current reproductions.
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Shot to show OE install of the wiring harness clip at the back. Clip has to be installed BEFORE the reinforcing plate is installed onto the firewall.
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Front view of the "long" bracket used on manual brakes.
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Gasket on the firewall stud as well.
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How the wiring bracket is retained in place.
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Wiped clean to show what brake fluid does to paint. Need to clean it properly and repaint.
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How to remove the brake push rod from the master cylinder spool. Rod clamped into vice. You can see the crack in the spool seal that caused the leak.
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A big screw driver and a pickle fork, or what ever you've got similar and pry the spool off.
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The push rod is retained by a rubber sleeve. The sleeve is installed into the spool and then the push rod is forced in locking it there. The retainer usually shears when taking it back apart, as it did in this case. It's just stuck there, but it's torn in half.
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I thought great, now I need to order a $2 part and pay $35 shipping... .but then my brain kicked in and remembered I'd added two of them to my Dr Diff order for the '64 Dodge last year "just in case" I needed one in the future.
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Using a plastic bristle brush and the paint is just rolling off thanks to the leaking Dot 3 brake fluid. I'll get it cleaned up the best I can and give it a quick shot of AA1 Silver. Thankfully I thought to ask if there was any paint left when I bought the car and got about a pint.
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The mess that needs to be tackled thanks to Dot 3 brake fluid.
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Master cylinder reinforcement plate prepped and painted semi-gloss black.
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What a wonderful place to spend the afternoon, bent over the nose of the car, using wax and grease remover and sanding to good paint or clean metal.
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Hopefully I covered everything.
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Get to try out my new gun...
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Not perfect, but it's certainly better than it was. Everything will blend once the master and it's reinforcement plate is back into place.
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Making a new gasket for the brake master reinforcing plate.
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Wiring bracket reinstalled after clean up.
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Gasket in place.
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True colour of the nut, same as the firewall heater box nuts, yellow zinc.
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Cleaned up the front side with brake cleaner and a plastic bristle brush.
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Reinforcing plate back into place.
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-8C outside with the master cylinder for a quick media blast with glass dust. No point in making a mess in the shop.
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In process and of course starting to snow.
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All blasted clean and ready to coat with Boeshield T9.
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Well coated with T9 to let is soak in for the night. My rebuild kits should be in the mail box tomorrow.
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Looks excellent. No one will ever notice the touch up down under there. I had the same issue with mine and did a spray touch up from underneath shooting up - someone else had already repaired the MC before I purchased the car and I didn’t want to remove it at the time. I will probably, re-do it from above when I replace/rebuild the MC. Who actually made the rebuild kit you bought. I think I found the EBay listing you purchased from but you got the last one and I haven’t found another. I do have a new one though if I need to use it.

Did you go back with DOT3 or are you planning to switch to DOT5?
One rebuild kit, the K256, is a "Certified" manufacturer and the K260 is from Asbestonos. After buying the first one I found he had another and bought it toooooo ...

No I'm not attempting for flush the system clean to switch to DOT5.
Any reason not to use you your blast cabinet Wayne? Just curious.

Contamination of the cabinet with brake fluid??
Any reason not to use you your blast cabinet Wayne? Just curious.

Contamination of the cabinet with brake fluid??
No matter how you use it there's dust in the room and currently all my oil and lubricants are piled right beside it. That and it doesn't have glass in it. Just a lot easier with just one part to take it outside and blast it. 15 minutes tops outside.
Hi can you post a pic of your fan blade and did it come with a clutched fan or fixed on the street hemi in 66?
Both rebuild kits came with a bag of fluid, but I'll pass on some tacky 55+ year old fluid and use fresh DOT 3.
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The old parts laid out the way they came out. I reused the spring and left the new one in the Asbestonos kit for another day.
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Parts ready to go into the master cylinder.
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The Asbestonos rebuild kit came with a reused OE main spool. Part #220395
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The Certified seal on the left is thinner and more flexiable than the Asbestonos seal on the right, so I went with the heavier one and the OE spool.
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Cleaned, cleaned and cleaned the bore some more until the kleenex came out as spottless as it went in.
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I put that **** on everything. Never a fluid leak in 30 years in Aviation use.
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Went to use the "bleeder" tube I bent up and noted it didn't thread in enough to make the line flare sit tight. Checking the OE I noted the relieved threads for about 3/16".
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Ground the threads off my bleeder tubes nut.
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All parts going into the master cylinder bore dipped in brake fluid.
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New push rod lock rubber ready to go into the undercut in the main spool.
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Lock rubber in place.
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Brake rod pushed into the lock rubber in the main spool. Make sure you have the rubber boot and retainer plate on the rod BEFORE you do so!
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Seal goes in first, then the valve pre attached to the spring (shown being dipped above). Then a rubber seal that is backed by a thin metal washer with the cup facing over the spring head. Then the spool with seal.
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Spool started in, then I rolled a piece of shim stock into the bore so the seal lip could easily just enter. You have to pull the shim stock back before the spool will go in, or you can use your nails and work the seal into the bore.
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Push rod retainer plate bolted in place and the spring keeper installed to the push rod. Filled the reservoir 1/2 full with brake fluid and hand pumped the push rod with the master at different angles until I had no more air bubbles. Then left it for an hour and did it again getting a few more small ones, then none.
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Found I had a manual brake gasket in the misc left overs from the Bee restoration.
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I can't stand when I see a fresh install picture with bright white gasket sticking out as the "highlight" in the shot. Gaskets are being made larger than OE so I trimmed it off with the exacto knife.
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That I like.
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I was going to leave that top left reinforcing plate nut out, figuring I'd never get the nut back up there and then decided I'd better give it a go. Kept losing the nut and then the light bulb went off.
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