1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2

[AR67GTX]

Thats pretty much what I did with mine too - set a small washer in a bed of JB Weld on the cracked plastic. Works well.

 

[Richard Cranium]

Thanks for the instructions on how to pull the dash cluster. The light bulb over my temp/gas gauge isn't working. I've tried swapping the bulb & holder with a working one and no go, so it looks like I've got to pull the cluster to see what's going on.

Thoughts?

 

[BB BELLA]

Wayne your a gem! thanks for making time to give us the benefit of your time!

 

[AR67GTX]

Thanks for the instructions on how to pull the dash cluster. The light bulb over my temp/gas gauge isn't working. I've tried swapping the bulb & holder with a working one and no go, so it looks like I've got to pull the cluster to see what's going on.

Thoughts?

Unfortunately, pulling the cluster is probably necessary to figure out what is wrong. When I had the one out of my 66 out last year I spent quite a bit of time cleaning the boards, testing continuity and bulbs. I used some De-Ox at all the bulb locations but that’s probably more of a preservation thing than a fix. I believe I also made a couple wire jumpers up to hook it up to the car battery and the lighting stud/pin and ground so I could actually see each bulb was lighting up. I’ve had the clusters out of my 66 and 67 probably 5 or 6 times over the years but I hate doing it - a factory AC car is the worst.

 

[dadsbee]

Thanks for the instructions on how to pull the dash cluster. The light bulb over my temp/gas gauge isn't working. I've tried swapping the bulb & holder with a working one and no go, so it looks like I've got to pull the cluster to see what's going on.

Thoughts?

I'll have a boo at it when I get back to the shop to see what runs the bulb on that side. Working on getting the Daughter and GDaughter packed up and on their way home to a warm house with a new furnace. Thankfully the father and law located them a new furnace and got it installed yesterday.

BTW.. here's a picture of the circuit boards..

 

[Fran Blacker]

I'll have a boo at it when I get back to the shop to see what runs the bulb on that side. Working on getting the Daughter and GDaughter packed up and on their way home to a warm house with a new furnace. Thankfully the father and law located them a new furnace and got it installed yesterday.

BTW.. here's a picture of the circuit boards..
View attachment 1393833

Wayne not sure if your interested in originality? 66 Satellites didn't come with bulbs or sockets in turn signal circuit board holes. They were black taped over.

 

[dadsbee]

Wayne not sure if your interested in originality? 66 Satellites didn't come with bulbs or sockets in turn signal circuit board holes. They were black taped over.

Explains the goo on the circuit boards.. but pretty stupid to leave two bulb holders out when the indicator arrows are in the cluster face! Tape probably cost as much as the bulb holders.. why on earth would they do that. Guess they wanted you to admire the fender tip lights.

 

[AR67GTX]

I put bulbs in both of mine just for the heck of it. They are sometimes easier to notice in bright daylight.

 

[Fran Blacker]

I put bulbs in both of mine just for the heck of it. They are sometimes easier to notice in bright daylight.

Did the same. If I ever pull the cluster to remove the 150 mph speedo the original owner put in I'll tape them over.

 

[dadsbee]

Figure since the cluster is out of the car I should test everything I can before putting it back in.

Negative to the housing and positive to the first pin on the left side board is ignition power in to the board for the voltage regulator. The new RTE's have a Red indicator light that flashes when powered up.

Pin #3 is instrument lights on the left circuit board.

Same on the right circuit board, pin #3 for instrument lights.

Pin #2 on the left circuit board is the left turn signal indicator light.

Pin #5 on the right board is the right signal indicator light.

Ignition power hooked up and then a 10 ohm resistor between pin #4 and GROUND will swing the temperature gauge to full.

Temperature gauge at full with 10 ohm resistor to GROUND.

10 ohm resister between pin #5 and GROUND will swing the fuel gauge to full.

Fuel gauge at full.

 

[dadsbee]

Pin #4 on the right circuit board is the high beam indicator.

Put on the red light.... Roxanne..

Satellites had the signal light bulb holes taped off from the factory, as they have indicator lights on the front fender tips. I like them both working. Pic shows the remnants of the tape on the right signal indicator hole.

Tape goo from the factory taping off the left signal indicator hole.

Glove box insert fixed up and clip on screw plate in place.

Box liner all back into place.

Spare ECU, rad cap, ballast resistor and the socket required to change the ECU put back in the glove box. The hemi is running an ECU box hidden under the battery tray vs stock points.

 

[64BEL]

Wayne not sure if your interested in originality? 66 Satellites didn't come with bulbs or sockets in turn signal circuit board holes. They were black taped over.

Interesting. Mine work - both in the cluster and on the fenders. I wonder if it was a factory "mistake" or a modification at some point. Doesn't look like the panel has been removed, but that really doesn't mean it hasn't. I have a few bulbs not lit, so one of these days I'll have to take it apart. It'll be interesting to see if there's any tape goo.

 

[dadsbee]

Time to put her back together.

Amp gauge hooked up first, then the 5 pin plug to the left of those.

Speedometer cable hooked on and it keeps things nicely in place.

Then the longer wires of the left sides 5 pin plug to the circuit board and then the wiper switch wires and then the headlight wires last.

Don't forget, if you don't ground the cluster housing nothing works properly. You'll panic when you find out the wipers won't park !!

Testing everything before putting the cluster into it's final position. Fuel gauge works and instrument lights. I saw the temperature gauge move ever so slightly, so it should be good as well.

All lights, signals, high beam etc tested and then into place she goes. It won't go straight in as the housing has a bump on the bottom. Bottom "bump" has to go in first by tipping it back and then in.

Cluster sitting in place, no screws yet.

Fishing the heater control out and up into place.

Control back on the proper side of the cluster for mounting.

 

[dadsbee]

3 of these screws in the top edge of the housing are the ground source from the housing to dash frame.

Another check of everything again before putting anymore screws in.

Lower 3 screws are oval head and black.

Heater control screws.

More spit cleaning.

Black oval head screws for the heater control plate.

Control knobs back on with the allen key.

Steering column nuts tightened back up and then the cover plate put in place with 4 screws.

All purdy again...

Got worried after looking at the pictures and seeing the speedometer sitting at 8 MPH. Rushed back out to the shop worried the cable was sticking out too much and damaged the movement. Got out there, she's sitting at Zero and I hooked a drill on and ran it IN REVERSE and the speedometer works just fine.

 

[440 4 speed]

3 of these screws in the top edge of the housing are the ground source from the housing to dash frame.
View attachment 1394482
Another check of everything again before putting anymore screws in.
View attachment 1394484
Lower 3 screws are oval head and black.
View attachment 1394485
Heater control screws.
View attachment 1394486
More spit cleaning.
View attachment 1394488
Black oval head screws for the heater control plate.
View attachment 1394489
Control knobs back on with the allen key.
View attachment 1394490
Steering column nuts tightened back up and then the cover plate put in place with 4 screws.
View attachment 1394491
All purdy again...
View attachment 1394492
Got worried after looking at the pictures and seeing the speedometer sitting at 8 MPH. Rushed back out to the shop worried the cable was sticking out too much and damaged the movement. Got out there, she's sitting at Zero and I hooked a drill on and ran it IN REVERSE and the speedometer works just fine.

So did the odometer lose some miles, that used to work on some cars. Friend used his dad’s Scout back in the day. Put quite a few miles on it when dad was away. He got worried, put it on blocks started it, put it in reverse and let it run. Rolled it back a lot of miles over 4 or 5 hours.

 

[dadsbee]

Odometer doesn't go backwards. The speedometer cable has to be turned CCW (drill reverse) for the speedometer to function correctly.

 

[AR67GTX]

Those heater controls are a pain to get seated right for the screws. Nice job. Hopefully you won’t need to repeat it anytime soon.

 

[dadsbee]

Those heater controls are a pain to get seated right for the screws. Nice job. Hopefully you won’t need to repeat it anytime soon.

I should have noted that you have to move the slide levers from one side to the other while fishing the controls from behind to get them into place!

 

[440 4 speed]

Odometer doesn't go backwards. The speedometer cable has to be turned CCW (drill reverse) for the speedometer to function correctly.

Thanks for the clarification.

 

[dadsbee]