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1969 Charger re wire with Ron Francis kit...and a few thoughts...

There is a complete brand new fuse panel with new style fuses. Got rid of the old one all together. The power junction comes right off the fuse box. The kit i used was a complete designed kit for this car. There are relays in the system.

Good thought!
 
I originally started documenting this re wire in "what did you do to your Mopar today" thread. After a few posts, I realized it should have its own thread. I wanted to document what I've done, give some insight on how it's all going and maybe tie some other wiring threads that I've read together to help others out as they go through this process.......so here goes.

3 weeks ago I started this project. The car needed a new aalternator and I had the kit so I figured this was the right time, even though right in the middle of good cruising time. It had to be done. The old wiring was just that old. I didn't want to run good power from new alternator with internal voltage regulator thru old wiring. I hadn't had any issues yet but didn't want to chance it either.

Keep in mind, I was reluctant to dive in because it seemed to be overwhelming to me. I have electrical expirience with residential wiring and building my own tube guitar amps but still it was different.. But have no fear, dive right in..it will be ok.
.:lol:

Must do's -

1. Read the re wire kits directions BEFORE you begin!! Keep them handy and any questions, stop and refer back. I did this and was glad I did! RF kits label their wiring packs and have an order they go in. This will keep you on track and get a sense of accomplishment. This process will be a slow and methodical one. (I'm sure other kits from other companies work in similar ways)

2. Take the entire interior out carefully. In some cases it's been there a long time and you don't want to rip, tear, destroy anything you're not ready to replace. Once it's out, now the wiring should be accessible. This can be a scary time because if you've never been this far with your car, you're not sure what you're gonna find.

This is a great time to inspect, clean and prepare floor interior for re install. I cleaned it, realizing it was in pretty good shape. A little prep and sound deadened went back in. I planned on running wires between this padding ant the carpet. I figured there would be better protection for wiring.

3. Take ALL the old wiring out. Unless you absolutely have to, do not mix the old and new wiring. Get the old out and again take your time in preparing for the new install. For example, the dome light wire, unhook from light, tie a string and pull thru leaving the string hanging and labeled! Then the new can be attached and pulled up thru carefully so you don't end up replacing the headliner. (Unless you want to)

4. This isn't a must do nut more like a must know. Plan on finding more than you bargained for. For me, power steering box is now being replaced. I took the battery tray out to run the headlight wires and vacuum lines correctly and realized the steering box was toast! The gear spline into the steering column was too messed up. Moving in and out plus left and right as wheel was turned.i figured this out accidentally as I needed to turn the tire to open up to get to neutral switch! So, be ready!

5. The Francis kit wants you to ground to the starter bolt and run power from starter. With a larger big block with headers and a mini starter, the post is not long enough to add all of these power wires they wanted. Plus, no really good way to route them down there with ought risking heat from the headers. So, Francis supplied a junction block. With a similar application, I strongly suggest using it and mounting up next to old bulkhead area. Pic will be below, all not cleaned up yet, just run with end to length. As for the ground, Francis states to ground to stater mounting bolt. Well again, that's great but with headers and mini starter there was no really good way to do this safely for the wire. I'm re wiring for more reliability and not going to do something that could be messed up. So I created a ground junction block on the opposite side of the firewall. (by old heater core holes) I needed a ground from the alternator plus I had a ground strap so seemed logical. Pic below as well. We'll see how that goes. But, reading directions first, was a help here, knowing what they wanted and being able to figure things out.

6. Plan on all wiring going back in first. Lay it all out, tidy it up loom it up or used some loom material so it's protected. But do it once. It will be a pain in the buttocks to tear apart because you've (or me) forgot a wire. Yup, I did that, you don't want to. I want things as neat as they can be. That will take some pre-thinking. Also, keep in mind if you're adding a premeire type stereo with RCA cables (like to your old vcr deck) those MUST be run to the back opposite any power wires and power to your amps. If your going to the trunk with bass and amp with regular stereo in dash. If you run all together, noise interference with annoy the living crap out of you!

7. Get solder and a little butane lighter type torch from Home Depot / lowes etc. get shrink wrap. Fine solder tubes work pretty good. Solder ALL ends that you make and insulate with heat wrap. That little torch will do both. That way you know you have great connections. This is part of that slow and methodical part. I'll post some pics of this process and tools later if needed.

8. Now is the time to go LED if that is your choice. If stock is your idea, certainly stay that way. LED bulbs can work there too. They need to have some special attention to work. Locate the instructions of the bulbs you're looking at and make sure you have all you need.
I'm installing a set of digitalis in the rear this year and will look at the front next year.. We'll see. I will report out on those when they get here and I see just how good they go in! Lol!

That's it for now, much more to follow before I'm done..
First pic is ground post and second is power from the kit. Not cleaned up yet just run to length.

View attachment 499539 View attachment 499538
you should use black wire in a car for ground . this way you or a helper doesn't get confused.
 
you should use black wire in a car for ground . this way you or a helper doesn't get confused.
That is an absolute must! Exactly what I did here!
 
And add a bunch of extra grounds.
Oh yes! I added a ground junction block to make it easier to check those pesky grounds later if need be! Didn’t mess it up too bad either!
 
When I did my neighbors truck with his Painless set up, it took me 3+ weeks to install. Some days were 8hrs, some days less. What sucks up the time is the routing, sleeving, mounting of the harness. If you just zip tie it, tape it or leave loose you can do it faster but it looks like ***. If you are not doing it already, don't be skimpy with running grounds. On a Camaro I wired, the battery negative went straight to the engine, pigtail off it went to core support with front lighting/fan and others tapped straight in. From the connection at the core support, sent two to the subframe. Have four going from engine/trans to firewall and body. Rear of front subframe has four going to points on the body. Rear lamps have two from lamp housings to body. At all points, paint was knocked off, external star washers on both sides of connector to bite in, silicone grease to keep corrosion at bay. Have others inside car from cluster to body and off other accessories.
A lot of work. I went with an M&H harness. I just don't have the patience to wire a car like that. Great work.
 
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