• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

1969 Charger re wire with Ron Francis kit...and a few thoughts...

Xp29h

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
3:49 AM
Joined
Aug 9, 2013
Messages
7,735
Reaction score
10,399
Location
Maine
I originally started documenting this re wire in "what did you do to your Mopar today" thread. After a few posts, I realized it should have its own thread. I wanted to document what I've done, give some insight on how it's all going and maybe tie some other wiring threads that I've read together to help others out as they go through this process.......so here goes.

3 weeks ago I started this project. The car needed a new aalternator and I had the kit so I figured this was the right time, even though right in the middle of good cruising time. It had to be done. The old wiring was just that old. I didn't want to run good power from new alternator with internal voltage regulator thru old wiring. I hadn't had any issues yet but didn't want to chance it either.

Keep in mind, I was reluctant to dive in because it seemed to be overwhelming to me. I have electrical expirience with residential wiring and building my own tube guitar amps but still it was different.. But have no fear, dive right in..it will be ok.
.:lol:

Must do's -

1. Read the re wire kits directions BEFORE you begin!! Keep them handy and any questions, stop and refer back. I did this and was glad I did! RF kits label their wiring packs and have an order they go in. This will keep you on track and get a sense of accomplishment. This process will be a slow and methodical one. (I'm sure other kits from other companies work in similar ways)

2. Take the entire interior out carefully. In some cases it's been there a long time and you don't want to rip, tear, destroy anything you're not ready to replace. Once it's out, now the wiring should be accessible. This can be a scary time because if you've never been this far with your car, you're not sure what you're gonna find.

This is a great time to inspect, clean and prepare floor interior for re install. I cleaned it, realizing it was in pretty good shape. A little prep and sound deadened went back in. I planned on running wires between this padding ant the carpet. I figured there would be better protection for wiring.

3. Take ALL the old wiring out. Unless you absolutely have to, do not mix the old and new wiring. Get the old out and again take your time in preparing for the new install. For example, the dome light wire, unhook from light, tie a string and pull thru leaving the string hanging and labeled! Then the new can be attached and pulled up thru carefully so you don't end up replacing the headliner. (Unless you want to)

4. This isn't a must do nut more like a must know. Plan on finding more than you bargained for. For me, power steering box is now being replaced. I took the battery tray out to run the headlight wires and vacuum lines correctly and realized the steering box was toast! The gear spline into the steering column was too messed up. Moving in and out plus left and right as wheel was turned.i figured this out accidentally as I needed to turn the tire to open up to get to neutral switch! So, be ready!

5. The Francis kit wants you to ground to the starter bolt and run power from starter. With a larger big block with headers and a mini starter, the post is not long enough to add all of these power wires they wanted. Plus, no really good way to route them down there with ought risking heat from the headers. So, Francis supplied a junction block. With a similar application, I strongly suggest using it and mounting up next to old bulkhead area. Pic will be below, all not cleaned up yet, just run with end to length. As for the ground, Francis states to ground to stater mounting bolt. Well again, that's great but with headers and mini starter there was no really good way to do this safely for the wire. I'm re wiring for more reliability and not going to do something that could be messed up. So I created a ground junction block on the opposite side of the firewall. (by old heater core holes) I needed a ground from the alternator plus I had a ground strap so seemed logical. Pic below as well. We'll see how that goes. But, reading directions first, was a help here, knowing what they wanted and being able to figure things out.

6. Plan on all wiring going back in first. Lay it all out, tidy it up loom it up or used some loom material so it's protected. But do it once. It will be a pain in the buttocks to tear apart because you've (or me) forgot a wire. Yup, I did that, you don't want to. I want things as neat as they can be. That will take some pre-thinking. Also, keep in mind if you're adding a premeire type stereo with RCA cables (like to your old vcr deck) those MUST be run to the back opposite any power wires and power to your amps. If your going to the trunk with bass and amp with regular stereo in dash. If you run all together, noise interference with annoy the living crap out of you!

7. Get solder and a little butane lighter type torch from Home Depot / lowes etc. get shrink wrap. Fine solder tubes work pretty good. Solder ALL ends that you make and insulate with heat wrap. That little torch will do both. That way you know you have great connections. This is part of that slow and methodical part. I'll post some pics of this process and tools later if needed.

8. Now is the time to go LED if that is your choice. If stock is your idea, certainly stay that way. LED bulbs can work there too. They need to have some special attention to work. Locate the instructions of the bulbs you're looking at and make sure you have all you need.
I'm installing a set of digitalis in the rear this year and will look at the front next year.. We'll see. I will report out on those when they get here and I see just how good they go in! Lol!

That's it for now, much more to follow before I'm done..
First pic is ground post and second is power from the kit. Not cleaned up yet just run to length.

image.jpeg
image.jpeg
 
I think you's be wise to buy some wire loom and install it as you go. I bought this neat loom that has a fabric look (just like original) that is split but rolled over on itself with "memory" built right into the material it's made of. Turn the rolled seam down and it looks like a solid tube. Comes in many diameters. I also don't like piling eyelets on top one another for grounds or power. With that many, a multi strip looks much nicer or a multi-spade tab strip. Each to his own I guess.
 
I do have some. In certain spots you can do. but mostly have to cut the wires to fit then get into the loom unfortunately. The wires with the bigger circle ends won't fit but the other ends will.

I hear you on the multi.. It was a thought but looking at the options... Ill take a look at multi strip..
thanks!
 
I think you's be wise to buy some wire loom and install it as you go. I bought this neat loom that has a fabric look (just like original) that is split but rolled over on itself with "memory" built right into the material it's made of. Turn the rolled seam down and it looks like a solid tube. Comes in many diameters. I also don't like piling eyelets on top one another for grounds or power. With that many, a multi strip looks much nicer or a multi-spade tab strip. Each to his own I guess.
It can be bought threw any of the wiring companies (Ron Francis, American Autowire or Painless) but can be bought much, much cheaper threw McMaster Karr. Used the same stuff, I liked it.
 
Update:

I took a little time off from rewire but we're back at it.

So, here's the update..

I did purchase both junction blocks from Summit. One for power and one for ground. I didn't realize these were available and was directed from Yatzee's thought on piling up on a post. Thanks! I'll get a pic or two up when I can. They look really good. They came with covers for protection!

Things are going back pretty good but I would recommend to those in the future is to be slow, steady and methodical as you go. Just when you think you're making good progress, something crops up to slow you down. Be ready for that as its going to happen. I think it's actually good to keep you thinking so when you're all done you don't end up saying, "oh crap, I should have done that differently."

With my Ron Francis kit, the steering column pigtail doesn't match right up with orientation and connector type. RF kit does supply with both sides of new pigtail to to completely redo. So, that's good. But, to cut the old connector out still in the car and solder and rewire, I thought would be too tough. So, I pulled the column out of the car to get at it. That led to noticing the column needed to have a rebuild kit installed as things were missing! That might explain why things didn't steer so good! So, be prepared to fix other things that aren't even on your radar screen!

I would also say keep old and new schematics handy. Most kits I presume will tell you to use their schematic only as its been re engineered. RF is that way. However, I've found that youLl need to refer back to the old one from time to time for various reasons. Mostly to match up and look at new schematic to make sure you have what you need!

Last for this update, KEEP YOUR OLD WIRING HARNESSES UNTIL YOU ARE ALL DONE!
I've needed to look at the old harness and grab some of the older switch connectors and rewire those to make your switches work! Unless your going completely different switch types in dash, you'll want those connectors. I've looked for new but haven't come across them yet. I'm still looking.

More to follow..
 
Here's the pic of the junction box I switched to. Now I figure there are many ways to do this job. None being wrong (unless you do it like post #5)

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfw-jb57
(Mine came with red wire not purple)
image.jpeg
image.jpeg

I've started with re doing the trunk. It doesn't show well but twilight wires all neat with loom and clips to attach up out of the way.. Obviously little more to do there..
 
When I did my neighbors truck with his Painless set up, it took me 3+ weeks to install. Some days were 8hrs, some days less. What sucks up the time is the routing, sleeving, mounting of the harness. If you just zip tie it, tape it or leave loose you can do it faster but it looks like ***. If you are not doing it already, don't be skimpy with running grounds. On a Camaro I wired, the battery negative went straight to the engine, pigtail off it went to core support with front lighting/fan and others tapped straight in. From the connection at the core support, sent two to the subframe. Have four going from engine/trans to firewall and body. Rear of front subframe has four going to points on the body. Rear lamps have two from lamp housings to body. At all points, paint was knocked off, external star washers on both sides of connector to bite in, silicone grease to keep corrosion at bay. Have others inside car from cluster to body and off other accessories.
 
It's taking some time for sure. I go every Monday and Tuesday night for about 4-5 hours then hit it when I can the rest of the week. My schedule is messed up now so those two evenings are really all I have. Been 4-5 weeks now. But coming good and when I get all loomed in in engine bay, it should be very neat!

To do it right or as good as I can, it is slow, tedious and methodical work. Trying to think 4 steps ahead the entire time.
 
It can be bought threw any of the wiring companies (Ron Francis, American Autowire or Painless) but can be bought much, much cheaper threw McMaster Karr. Used the same stuff, I liked it.
Is McMaster-Carr wholesale only? Used to buy when I worked thru the company. Just curious; they do have a lot of stuff.
 
I haven't purchased Nything from McMaster Carr yet. But looking at their website I don't think there would be an issue ordering anything. But, I'm sure someone will have first hand knowledge.

Update on wiring..
It's getting there. Anyone who does this will want to have both schematic diagrams available at all times! Ron Francis' general instructions say Not to use the old diagram because their kit is so different at the fuse box that using the old diagram will mess things up. Well, that is very true. But, for example, if using the old steering column and the wires and plug. RF supplies a new plug that has to be built. It's not hard, but you have to know what wire in the column is what and then match to new wires and plug. Again, not hard to do but without old schematic telling you what is what, you could end up hitting your right turn signal and blowing the horn!

I'm about ready to get the carpet back in the vehicle and start hooking the wires to the fuse box. All of the relays are in the new fuse box. Which is nice. Just different. All the RF wiring is color coded and labeled with a number, which corresponds to the number on the fuse box. I would think it would be pretty easy to get that right. But we'll see.
 
Update! It's down to the wire now! That was bad I know!

Anyway, I am all done! Finished last night all the hookups, tidying up a bit, running the last harnesses to the power seats and the speedo server for the Autometer gauge.

It's been a road. Fortunately, I think because I took my time, which I didn't want to do, I didn't have to "undo" things that I did and then think of something else. Doing a big job like this, I think for the guy whose never done it before, going slow was the way to go. Get a plan for each day and stick to it. Give yourself some time to digest what you've accomplished and pick it up again.

I certainly would have rather get it done quickly but the frustration level was much lower and very few mistakes and redo's!

In a couple nights, I'll get the battery all hooked back up and I'll pull all the fuses from the fuse box. I'll insert one by one checking each circuit as I go. I thought this would be the easy way to isolate any issues, if any! Positive thinking at its best right there!

Overall, Ron Francis kit has been pretty good to work with. Their support on a couple missing headlight connectors was great so no complaints there.

We'll post on how things went with the circuit test in a few days.

I hope some of this info may help someone do this in the future by providing a little insight on how to get after this job.. regardless of wiring kit..
 
Sounds good.
I'm trying to decide how to wire the '69 Convertible?
Currently, I just want to get it back running and worry about the appearance later.
 
Final post on this info thread.. I started this thread as I really couldn't find a comprehensive thread on entire rewire. Maybe out there and I just missed it. So, I thought I'd start one. Feel free to pm or email with questions at anytime. By no means am I now an expert in this wiring issue but now have a little experience.

I was totally overwhelmed to think about starting this project and if I can help anyone get started and keep a bulkhead or gauge or wiring from going poof, I will try.. That said,

Car is about done. Things have slowed cause of the darn cold temps we've had. One of the last issues I ran into was the presets and memory of the stereo hat I was putting in. Not a huge system just a good stereo, couple amps in trunk, few speakers, lol! Now the issue.. Those presets and my safety shut off switch going thru the ground. I originally ran a positive and negative wire from dash where stereo will mount out to the battery for a the little constant power it needs. That way when I shut the power off to the car, I still get it off battery. Well, that little negative wire from battery to the stereo, which I should mention grounds thru the chassis and is mounted to dash frame, actually tries to ground the car again and gives it all power thru that little wire. Not good!

I thought of removing the switch cause I have all new wiring but then I lose a little theft deterrent. Solution, go through the positive side of the system. Certainly not what I wanted to do but fixed the issue and will be k

Things replaced due to the new re wire: things to think about: (no particular order)
- Gauges (original or new)
- Gauge panels (depends if original or new)
- New fuel sending unit to match gauge and replace old one anyway
- New oil sending unit to match and work with new gauge
- All wiring (of course) kit from your source (new fuse panel with new style fuses
- All new headlights (sealed halogens, not the really expensive ones though)
- All new LED bulbs where I could
- New led tailights (don't need, could do LED bulbs)
- Couple pair of wire strippers and cutters(get a good pair of terminal end crimpers!)
- Heat shrink of all sizes
- Some sort of little heat source like tiny torch flame for heat shrink and soldering
- Electrical solder
- Plenty of colored electrical wire to match what you've got going
- New wiring loom of choice
- Sound padding( I ripped out interior so I went there)
- All kinds of electrical connectors all sizes. Get the good ones here!
- Good ground and power junction boxes. I completely did away with bulkhead
- New alternator, this is what started the whole rewire!
- New steering coupler and guts with new firm feel stage 2 (not part of the rewire but had to be done, but as I found out column had been hit and was not right length so didn't fit right! Now all good
- Save all old wire that is taken out of the car, as you may need a connector or two that will make things much easier. Just inspect and make sure all ok
- several new headlight connectors and metal connectors inside them.
- uninsulated butt connectors for a few places (heat shrink over top)

I know I forgot some stuff for the list and it still looks like a ton of stuff. But I know every job will be different, oh yeah, black electrical tape! Get the Good stuff.

This is really for the average guy like myself that doesn't do this stuff often. Not the guy who has been there a lot before? The biggest thing is go slow, pick a couple days a week where you work hard on it and then think about what you want to accomplish each night before you start! Write it down so you don't forget where you are and thoughts you had while working. Get a friend even if they don't know electrical, it will help to bounce thoughts off. I know it's going to to be tough not to keep car going and cruise etc, but for me winters suck for working in cold garage. I'm working on that too..so I ripped my car apart in June. Lost a ton of good cruising but this spring, if it ever shows up, I'll be riding a lot without worries of bad gauges and wiring!

I hope this helps out in the future! Good luck! It's really not that bad, I'd actually do it again!
 
I originally started documenting this re wire in "what did you do to your Mopar today" thread. After a few posts, I realized it should have its own thread. I wanted to document what I've done, give some insight on how it's all going and maybe tie some other wiring threads that I've read together to help others out as they go through this process.......so here goes.

3 weeks ago I started this project. The car needed a new aalternator and I had the kit so I figured this was the right time, even though right in the middle of good cruising time. It had to be done. The old wiring was just that old. I didn't want to run good power from new alternator with internal voltage regulator thru old wiring. I hadn't had any issues yet but didn't want to chance it either.

Keep in mind, I was reluctant to dive in because it seemed to be overwhelming to me. I have electrical expirience with residential wiring and building my own tube guitar amps but still it was different.. But have no fear, dive right in..it will be ok.
.:lol:

Must do's -

1. Read the re wire kits directions BEFORE you begin!! Keep them handy and any questions, stop and refer back. I did this and was glad I did! RF kits label their wiring packs and have an order they go in. This will keep you on track and get a sense of accomplishment. This process will be a slow and methodical one. (I'm sure other kits from other companies work in similar ways)

2. Take the entire interior out carefully. In some cases it's been there a long time and you don't want to rip, tear, destroy anything you're not ready to replace. Once it's out, now the wiring should be accessible. This can be a scary time because if you've never been this far with your car, you're not sure what you're gonna find.

This is a great time to inspect, clean and prepare floor interior for re install. I cleaned it, realizing it was in pretty good shape. A little prep and sound deadened went back in. I planned on running wires between this padding ant the carpet. I figured there would be better protection for wiring.

3. Take ALL the old wiring out. Unless you absolutely have to, do not mix the old and new wiring. Get the old out and again take your time in preparing for the new install. For example, the dome light wire, unhook from light, tie a string and pull thru leaving the string hanging and labeled! Then the new can be attached and pulled up thru carefully so you don't end up replacing the headliner. (Unless you want to)

4. This isn't a must do nut more like a must know. Plan on finding more than you bargained for. For me, power steering box is now being replaced. I took the battery tray out to run the headlight wires and vacuum lines correctly and realized the steering box was toast! The gear spline into the steering column was too messed up. Moving in and out plus left and right as wheel was turned.i figured this out accidentally as I needed to turn the tire to open up to get to neutral switch! So, be ready!

5. The Francis kit wants you to ground to the starter bolt and run power from starter. With a larger big block with headers and a mini starter, the post is not long enough to add all of these power wires they wanted. Plus, no really good way to route them down there with ought risking heat from the headers. So, Francis supplied a junction block. With a similar application, I strongly suggest using it and mounting up next to old bulkhead area. Pic will be below, all not cleaned up yet, just run with end to length. As for the ground, Francis states to ground to stater mounting bolt. Well again, that's great but with headers and mini starter there was no really good way to do this safely for the wire. I'm re wiring for more reliability and not going to do something that could be messed up. So I created a ground junction block on the opposite side of the firewall. (by old heater core holes) I needed a ground from the alternator plus I had a ground strap so seemed logical. Pic below as well. We'll see how that goes. But, reading directions first, was a help here, knowing what they wanted and being able to figure things out.

6. Plan on all wiring going back in first. Lay it all out, tidy it up loom it up or used some loom material so it's protected. But do it once. It will be a pain in the buttocks to tear apart because you've (or me) forgot a wire. Yup, I did that, you don't want to. I want things as neat as they can be. That will take some pre-thinking. Also, keep in mind if you're adding a premeire type stereo with RCA cables (like to your old vcr deck) those MUST be run to the back opposite any power wires and power to your amps. If your going to the trunk with bass and amp with regular stereo in dash. If you run all together, noise interference with annoy the living crap out of you!

7. Get solder and a little butane lighter type torch from Home Depot / lowes etc. get shrink wrap. Fine solder tubes work pretty good. Solder ALL ends that you make and insulate with heat wrap. That little torch will do both. That way you know you have great connections. This is part of that slow and methodical part. I'll post some pics of this process and tools later if needed.

8. Now is the time to go LED if that is your choice. If stock is your idea, certainly stay that way. LED bulbs can work there too. They need to have some special attention to work. Locate the instructions of the bulbs you're looking at and make sure you have all you need.
I'm installing a set of digitalis in the rear this year and will look at the front next year.. We'll see. I will report out on those when they get here and I see just how good they go in! Lol!

That's it for now, much more to follow before I'm done..
First pic is ground post and second is power from the kit. Not cleaned up yet just run to length.

View attachment 499539 View attachment 499538
 
Thanks for all the insight will begin the wiring soon . I have already gutted the inside and the engine is out so i figure now is the time to do it. I am also moving battery to the trunk so like you will have to think ahead. Fuel pumps,led, radio etc are you keeping stock dash or up grade? Again thank you will post when i get going
 
Update:

I took a little time off from rewire but we're back at it.

So, here's the update..

I did purchase both junction blocks from Summit. One for power and one for ground. I didn't realize these were available and was directed from Yatzee's thought on piling up on a post. Thanks! I'll get a pic or two up when I can. They look really good. They came with covers for protection!

Things are going back pretty good but I would recommend to those in the future is to be slow, steady and methodical as you go. Just when you think you're making good progress, something crops up to slow you down. Be ready for that as its going to happen. I think it's actually good to keep you thinking so when you're all done you don't end up saying, "oh crap, I should have done that differently."

With my Ron Francis kit, the steering column pigtail doesn't match right up with orientation and connector type. RF kit does supply with both sides of new pigtail to to completely redo. So, that's good. But, to cut the old connector out still in the car and solder and rewire, I thought would be too tough. So, I pulled the column out of the car to get at it. That led to noticing the column needed to have a rebuild kit installed as things were missing! That might explain why things didn't steer so good! So, be prepared to fix other things that aren't even on your radar screen!

I would also say keep old and new schematics handy. Most kits I presume will tell you to use their schematic only as its been re engineered. RF is that way. However, I've found that youLl need to refer back to the old one from time to time for various reasons. Mostly to match up and look at new schematic to make sure you have what you need!

Last for this update, KEEP YOUR OLD WIRING HARNESSES UNTIL YOU ARE ALL DONE!
I've needed to look at the old harness and grab some of the older switch connectors and rewire those to make your switches work! Unless your going completely different switch types in dash, you'll want those connectors. I've looked for new but haven't come across them yet. I'm still looking.

More to follow..
 
Are you using any relays on yours . Also on your power junction block are you installing a circiut breaker its s good practice.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top