1970 Dodge Charger 440 4bll carburetor questions

[4speed68rt]

Looks and sounds like it needs a basic tune up. Plugs, distributor cap, rotor and carb clean/rebuild. Basic stuff. What part did the mechanic work on? It doesn't seem like anything. Sounds like that mechanic is going to take you for a ride, since you have no basic knowledge of how to make an engine engine run correctly. No offense, but be careful.

 

[eldubb440]

did he even pop the lid off that thing? it may just be full of crud......top of that carb comes off in 5 minutes without spilling a drop

if not, he is no "mechanic"

 

[matchek]

There is a number on the carb - looks like 1287 9G36S4 , but hard to tell

 

[matchek]

What do you mean I have no basic knowledge? I am chemical engineer - I have a basic knowledge. I am not a car mechanic though and don't have time to troubleshoot this myself.

According to him, he did a pressure test, tested for vacuum leaks, adjusted timing and carb screws, and checked rotor, checked plugs - don't know if he told me everything,.

I worked with him for last 4 years mostly when he had is own shop - now he works for someone else and only works on my car in between new car work.

 

[matchek]

He did not remove the carb from the intake manifold. I agree I think it need a basic tune up too

 

[eldubb440]

He did not remove the carb from the intake manifold. I agree I think it need a basic tune up too

the lid, aka "airhorn" comes off easily without removing the carb........ it allows access to the bowls, floats, acc pump, and main jets...... I ran a pair of them for 20 years and would periodically open them up, suck out a little rust sediment, and blow carb cleaner through the passages;

also, the airhorn cannot be removed without removing the metering rods first..... if a metering rod is sticking, it would be evident at this point

 

[4speed68rt]

I hope it works out. Keep us posted.

 

[matchek]

I think it needs a tune up too

 

[matchek]

He said he pulled the rotor and did not see anything out of the ordinary, but understand it could still be bad.

 

[4speed68rt]

Tell the guy that you are paying what to do. The people on this forum have years of experience on these cars. That is why you came on here and asked them what they think. Many have told you what is going to fix your car. Eldubb, pnora, Kern dog, Remcharger and a few others all gave great suggestions that would have the car fixed by now. Tell the mechanic to: change the spark plugs with some good NGKs or Champions, Put a new distributor cap and rotor, take off the carburetor and clean it up, inside and out. All of those things are things that need done periodically on these cars.
Then you can enjoy the car for what it is, a cool old classic car.

 

[Orig69]

That carb looks like an aftermarket AFB. The engine could run better just by installing the vacuum hoses for the PCV valve and the brake booster in the right place.

 

[matchek]

Thank you appreciate it very much . I agree .

 

[matchek]

There is a local Speed Shop that specializes in classic cars that I am now aware of. I am going to meet with them in Wednesday to show the car. I don't think my current mechanic has the time to work on it the amount that I need.

 

[Kern Dog]

Your "mechanic" is clearly not able to do the work.
Many people nowadays are parts swappers.....they have zero ability to properly diagnose a problem. They just change out parts until the problem goes away. Diagnosing is the hard part, I'll admit.
These cars are incredibly simple compared to a new car. Any competent mechanic would have your car running tip top in a couple of hours.
Nobody should call you stupid but being a Chemical Engineer does make you capable of understanding some complex matters.
I've known guys that look homeless and can't spell but their cars are always running because they have those skills.
Then there are Doctors, Engineers and Professors that can't change a tire.
YOU can do this yourself if you want. There are people on this forum that will walk you through it.

 

[matchek]

Okay I understand, I should have said I am a chemical engineer with experience working at two automotive companies doing *minor* repairs while also assisting my Dad who was a mechanical engineer and my brother (who both worked on cars) years ago. However, I have a lot of other things going on now plus helping my wife take care of a 1-1/2 year old. lol I also have 3 motorcycles where two are antiques too.

To clarify about my mechanic, what happened was I first took the car to just have him fix the brakes because it had a soft pedal. In the process of putting on new drums and fixing the concealed headlights, he asked if he could look into why it was backfiring when he test drove it and later he could not figure it out and now it runs worse. You guys know more of the ins and outs of real world taking care of Dodge Chargers and very much appreciate your comments to brain storm and expedite the diagnosis as my mechanic does not really work on old cars anymore. Through this process of communicating with him and the recommendations on this Forum, we all learned that my mechanic is probably in not in the best situation to work on this engine diagnosis.

I would not rule it out working on it by myself in the future, at least in the meantime while there is still hope, I prefer at least at this time to have someone else do the work so I am not spending too time on the garage and didn't want to screw up this Charger by me doing something wrong.

I am in no means a mechanic and and I apprecitate the comments/feedback from many experienced Mopar experts on this board! I hope to be cruising like you all soon. Anyway, your feedback helped TREMENDOUDSLY abd has enlightened me as to what is going on.and paths forward. Even though it is a simple engine, I am a little stressed out because it is a Dodge Charger and it's a big deal.

 

[RJRENTON]

I just went to pick up the car to fill up the gas tank with Ethanol Free Premium - Mechanic still working on it. Before the car ran pretty good, it just had a minor backfire. The Mechanic is not done with it but now the engine runs terrible - the engine shakes bad and thought I was going to stall at a red light. The Mechanic is going to install new plugs. He said he put the car settings back to where they where when he started and doesn't know why the car runs worse than when we started.

I took pictures of the engine compartment while at the gas station.

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IMO.....looks as if the previous owner was the victim of a "carburetor expert", who knew nothing about carb installations. The PCV, distributor ported vacuum advance connection were not connected (inopersyive PCV connection will cause a extremely rich micture especially st idle) to anything, and on the choke side of the carb, the bowl vent connection wss not utilized. DO YOU HAVE ACCESS TO THE ORIGIONAL CARTER AVS CARB? The carb presently in use is an EDELBROCK (aka "Eddy", for those that do not know how to spell or the Webber manufactured unit).performer series. The origional Carter AVS CARB used a well choke which, in my opinion was a superior design. I believe, to use a Holley design carb may require an intake manifold change due to a different mounting flange configuration and throttle bore alignment. BTW, the kick down linkage linkage on the throttle cable side is incorrectly oriented and will cause transmission shift point issues.
If there is a back firing issues, it is possible that the cam shaft has a bad or worn exhaust lobe or bad rocker arm. This would be visible with the engine running and the valve cover removed to observe the rocker arm operation. Yes, it vould be ignition system problems....plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, coil, etc.
Your " mechanic" SHOULD know these things....but if not, it's time to look for another person....
I'm sure others will have their own preferences and opinions and conclusions.....just my opinion of course..
BOB RENTON

 

[matchek]

Thank you Bob - good stuff. How can you tell it is an Eddy or you just know? My mechanic thought it was a Carter probably because he thought it was original.

I was able to contact the second owner of the car and he said that in all the back in the late 80s, he had the original 318 engine 2 bbl swapped with a "1973 440 donor engine" and also they put on a new carburator on it at that time. So don't have any original carbs. The second owner also told me that he later had it converted to electronic ignition. The choke is electric too.

As far as the potential valve issue, the mechanic told me twice he removed the valve cover and didn't notice anything unusual. My brother told me though the only way to know for sure if to have the head removed and to test the springs.

As far as the carb hoses, it looks there there are two places

I plan on taking it to a Speed Shop on Wednesday for evaluation and convey all the ignition recommendations from this forum in additon to any finding regarding the carb hoses and anything else.

I could also look into the speed shop putting in an original Carter?

 

[F4R/T]

Do a cylinder leak down test and compression test will tell you if there is a valve problem just not a weak spring . You can remove springs without removing the head. I would start simple.. this requires a little tlc that’s all. The nice thing about these old cars is simplicity! Buy quality parts no china stuff! Route the wires neatly to prevent burning etc... relax it’s just a 50 year old car! Enjoy it!, keep us posted, probably something really simple!

 

[matchek]

Cough

Repeat

Cough Cough

1287 9G36S4 ( this is the best I can see / tell from blowing up the picture)

 

[pnora]

1287 9G36S4 ( this is the best I can see / tell from blowing up the picture)

Recheck or post the numbers you are seeing.