1970 Dodge Charger 440 4bll carburetor questions

[RemCharger]

Thank you so much! It has been awhile and used to old GM cars - this is my first Mopar car. That makes sense.

No problem and... pcvs on all makes works the same way. Even whatever you're driving day to day. (Gasoline powered)

 

[matchek]

It's a Carter Competition series AFB.
Pre- Edelbrock

So based on just looking at the carb, you are 100% sure it is a Carter? One poster here say they were sure it was an Edelbrock. This is the Carb ID number picture that I took - as you can tell it is hard to read. Also not sure if it helps, but it I could not see the words "Carter " on the carb from a quick look but did not look very hard.

The second owner said that they put on a new carb in the late 80s. In addtion to what others have said , that is another reason why Edelbrock would make sense as Carter went out of business in '86 . But you guys are the experts.

 

[RemCharger]

That carb looks like an aftermarket AFB. The engine could run better just by installing the vacuum hoses for the PCV valve and the brake booster in the right place.

Carter AFB 9635 S - 9636 S - 9637 S

625 CFM

Emissions + EGR Hookup are unique with the Bowl Vent and EGR Hookup

9635 S - GM Linkage
9636 S - MOPAR Linkage
9637 S - Ford Linkage

We went through that a week ago

 

[RemCharger]

So based on just looking at the carb, you are 100% sure it is a Carter? One poster here say they were sure it was an Edelbrock. This is the Carb ID number picture that I took - as you can tell it is hard to read. Also not sure if it helps, but it I could not see the words "Carter " on the carb from a quick look but did not look very hard.

The second owner said that they put on a new carb in the late 80s. In addtion to what others have said , that is another reason why Edelbrock would make sense as Carter went out of business in '86 . But you guys are the experts.

View attachment 1427448

Just noticed looks like you have a sandwich stack under the carb.
Should start with a new base gasket too.

 

[matchek]

I know were are plitting hairs, but what does "Aftermarket AFB" mean? Is that still made by Carter or could it be another brand that looks like a Carter?

Also what do you mean the Brake Booster vacuum hose is not in the right place? Can you tell where it is now and where it should go? Thank you - this could be real important

 

[Bee1971]

We went through that a week ago

Thank You

 

[RJRENTON]

Is this what it should look like going from PVC Valve to the front of the carb? Currently the front of my carb is blocked off

View attachment 1427421

ABSOLUTELY WRONG...the PCV connection on the front of the carb (presently capped) should go to the PCV VALVE, presently shown on the driver's side valve cover. The BREATHER CONNECTION DEVICE, shown in your yellow line, is the air inlet from the air cleaner. YOU NEED TO GET A FACTORY SHOP MANUAL for your make, year and model of car....all the inquiries you have made are explained in great detail. BTW...you have an Edelbrock carb equivalent of a Carter carburetor, which WAS a.Carter AVS. The carb you show IS NOT an original but an aftermarket replacement. Someone along the line, removed the original carb and replaced it with the carb shown....it may work, but it is not what is original and will need to be researched as to the model needed and the correct installation connections......get yourself a factory service manual....
BOB RENTON

 

[4speed68rt]

Page 8 of this thread already and now we are circling back and starting over. Still nothing has changed on the car. Chevy, Dodge, Ford, etc...they all basically work the same. Good luck with it. The car has potential, but somebody needs to make it happen. No offense to anyone.

 

[matchek]

ABSOLUTELY WRONG...the PCV connection on the front of the carb (presently capped) should go to the PCV VALVE, presently shown on the driver's side valve cover. The BREATHER CONNECTION DEVICE, shown in your yellow line, is the air inlet from the air cleaner. YOU NEED TO GET A FACTORY SHOP MANUAL for your make, year and model of car....all the inquiries you have made are explained in great detail. BTW...you have an Edelbrock carb equivalent of a Carter carburetor, which WAS a.Carter AVS. The carb you show IS NOT an original but an aftermarket replacement. Someone along the line, removed the original carb and replaced it with the carb shown....it may work, but it is not what is original and will need to be researched as to the model needed and the correct installation connections......get yourself a factory service manual....
BOB RENTON

Thanks Bob, okay so if it is an Aftermarket it is not a Carter. Thank you! I will delete the PCV Post now that I got the answer

 

[matchek]

Page 8 of this thread already and now we are circling back and starting over. Still nothing has changed on the car. Chevy, Dodge, Ford, etc...they all basically work the same. Good luck with it. The car has potential, but somebody needs to make it happen. No offense to anyone.

We have made headway. I was real sick the last 7 days and have been talking with Mopar experts on lining up appointments. In the meantime, I am trying to fix some low hanging fruit based on what they and you guys have seen from the picture. So far the soonest I can get an appoitnment is 3 to 4 weeks from now.

I am trying to find the thread as to where the Brake Booster hose should go. I remember someone said that it was wrong but I don't recall they said where it can go.

 

[matchek]

ABSOLUTELY WRONG...the PCV connection on the front of the carb (presently capped) should go to the PCV VALVE, presently shown on the driver's side valve cover. The BREATHER CONNECTION DEVICE, shown in your yellow line, is the air inlet from the air cleaner. YOU NEED TO GET A FACTORY SHOP MANUAL for your make, year and model of car....all the inquiries you have made are explained in great detail. BTW...you have an Edelbrock carb equivalent of a Carter carburetor, which WAS a.Carter AVS. The carb you show IS NOT an original but an aftermarket replacement. Someone along the line, removed the original carb and replaced it with the carb shown....it may work, but it is not what is original and will need to be researched as to the model needed and the correct installation connections......get yourself a factory service manual....
BOB RENTON

Thanks Bob, I have the 1970 Service Manual but I let the present mechanic have it at his shop and he was still fixing/bleeding the brakes. I am just trying to see if some quick wins can make a difference because the closet Moper Expert from me that I found so far is 100 miles from me and would prefer to driving it there if I can.

 

[matchek]

I don't think it is so terrible.

A couple things I noticed:

1. I like to use the vacuum advance on a street car.
2. Not sure where the PCV valve is connected? It should be in the front of the carb.
3. The transmission kickdown linkage needs to be adjusted closer to the carb stud. The manifold is taller and they may have run out of adjustment threads.
4. If you can find someone to check and clean the carburetor I would do that first before just buying a new one.
5. I wouldn't be too concerned about the heat crossover being blocked off as it has headers and what looks to be low backpressure exhuast.

Thank you Don. I was sick earlier but now I am processing this and it sinking in. I understand about the PCV valve connections now too.

 

[SlinktRR]

yeah, scratch what I said about doing the diagnostics yourself. just ask someone to get the leak down, compression, etc numbers and post it here. you will have to learn the basics first which takes time. I would still get a vac gauge that you can plug into the carb as that comes in handy for a lot of things with old cars, carb tuning being just one example.

Would not suggest driving 100 miles if its backfiring/popping out the exhaust, need to know if that's just ignition misfire/carb related or something more serious like a flat cam lobe or burnt exhaust valve. If you have to flatbed it, so be it. good luck with your next steps.

 

[matchek]

That carb looks like an aftermarket AFB. The engine could run better just by installing the vacuum hoses for the PCV valve and the brake booster in the right place.

Thank you Orig. Would someone please let me know what it wrong with my Brake Booster Vacuum line situation? Where does it go? Several folks have let me know it is in the wrong spot.

I let the present mechanic know about this and he double checked it, but he may not know what you know. I don't have the Shop Manual with me. Just trying for a quick win before I can see a Mopar expert which won't be for weeks.

 

[RemCharger]

Thank you Orig. Would someone please let me know what it wrong with my Brake Booster Vacuum line situation? Where does it go? Several folks have let me know it is in the wrong spot.

I let the present mechanic know about this and he double checked it, but he may not know what you know. I don't have the Shop Manual with me. Just trying for a quick win before I can see a Mopar expert which won't be for weeks.

Basically there should be a 3/8 pipe nipple threaded into the intake behind the carb.

The brake booster hose should connect to it.

That's all there is to say about that.

 

[matchek]

yeah, scratch what I said about doing the diagnostics yourself. just ask someone to get the leak down, compression, etc numbers and post it here. you will have to learn the basics first which takes time. I would still get a vac gauge that you can plug into the carb as that comes in handy for a lot of things with old cars, carb tuning being just one example.

Would not suggest driving 100 miles if its backfiring/popping out the exhaust, need to know if that's just ignition misfire/carb related or something more serious like a flat cam lobe or burnt exhaust valve. If you have to flatbed it, so be it. good luck with your next steps.

Thanks, I replaced PCV valves before on other cars and now that it was explained again, its coming back to me. I haven't really done too much car work since 2015 so quite rusty and take awhile to sink in. I did watch a few you tube videos on cylinder leakage tests for reference.

 

[matchek]

yeah, scratch what I said about doing the diagnostics yourself. just ask someone to get the leak down, compression, etc numbers and post it here. you will have to learn the basics first which takes time. I would still get a vac gauge that you can plug into the carb as that comes in handy for a lot of things with old cars, carb tuning being just one example.

Would not suggest driving 100 miles if its backfiring/popping out the exhaust, need to know if that's just ignition misfire/carb related or something more serious like a flat cam lobe or burnt exhaust valve. If you have to flatbed it, so be it. good luck with your next steps.

By the way, makes sense, I understand I am hesitant as well. For what it is worth , any backfiring typically happens when you hit the gas hard. Not at idle or driving easy on it.

 

[matchek]

Basically there should be a 3/8 pipe nipple threaded into the intake behind the carb.

The brake booster hose should connect to it.

That's all there is to say about that.

Thank you Rem Charger - appreciate it! By the way, dumb question, even though that it was it supposed to be, you can tell by the pics that the it is not brake booster is not connected to the rear of the carb in its right spot? Please don't get mad. I already asked the mechanic and want to make sure I communicate it right.

 

[RemCharger]

Thank you Rem Charger - appreciate it! By the way, dumb question, even though that it was it supposed to be, you can tell by the pics that the it is not brake booster is not connected to the rear of the carb in its right spot? Please don't get mad. I already asked the mechanic and want to make sure I communicate it right.

I did not see a pic where we can see the end of the hose.

 

[matchek]

I did not see a pic where we can see the end of the hose.

Are you referring to the large hose that I have circled in yellow? It appearst to be connected to the intake manifold behind the carb if I understand correctly. Not the best angle. I don't know how much this matters, but the intake manifold is a Edelbrock manifold - my understanding that is not the original intake so not sure if the original 3/8" nipple was in a different location than the Edelbrock version.