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1970 Dodge Charger 440 4bll carburetor questions

Are you referring to the large hose that I have circled in yellow? It appearst to be connected to the intake manifold behind the carb if I understand correctly. Not the best angle. I don't know how much this matters, but the intake manifold is a Edelbrock manifold - my understanding that is not the original intake so not sure if the original 3/8" nipple was in a different location than the Edelbrock version.

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Yes.
Yes looks like it's going to the right place if it's connected to the manifold.
Nipple location is insignificant at this point (stock vs edelbrock)
 
Maybe it's just me but the vacuum hose for the brake booster looks like it's not hooked up to anything.
Hard to rell from pics where we can't see anything but would be pretty shitty to drive if no vacuum whatsoever
 
Maybe it's just me but the vacuum hose for the brake booster looks like it's not hooked up to anything.
Based on the picture that I just posted circled in yellow, there is a hose from the brake booster that runs behind the carb that looks like it is connected to the manifold. I need to check in person though . Thank you.
 
I never had an issue plugging my pcv to the base of the carb, and brake booster to an intake runner
 
First things that any competent mechanic (you don't have one ) will do is compression, leakdown, and vacuum gauge tests. When that's done, come back and tell us. Shooting arrows all over the place gets you nowhere.
I understand what you are saying. I am not trying to solve the whole problem right now per se, right now I was just asking for clarification on the brake booster poster vacuum hose posts.
 
Do you guys have a preference on what brand / model spark plug runs best in your 440 engine? Or is that too loaded of a question based on your setup? Was just wondering what worked best for you.
 
Do you guys have a preference on what brand / model spark plug runs best in your 440 engine? Or is that too loaded of a question based on your setup? Was just wondering what worked best for you.
This question has been answered many times in this thread, wouldn't hurt to go back and reread it..

NGK XR5
 
FYI we are going to move the PCV hose to the front of the carb and also put new plugs. My present mechanic thought that it was connected to the back of the carb and as long as it got vacuum , it would be fine. (He said thought that either way would be fine but going to change it anyway based on communicated recommendations). That is how the setup was when I brought it in.

After talking with the shop , my present mechanic thinks that the carb is "dumping too much fuel" and that is why he thinks that is causing the backfire. He said when he adjusts the carb he is not getting a response better or worse than what he would expect. I asked if he can spray cleaner in it, but he won't clean it - for that I have to do it or take it to someone else. (by the way if that was true, not sure how the backfire could be just on the drivers side but anyway).

Before anyone gets excited, I am just trying to see if I can get it running better because the nearest Mopar expert is 100 miles away from my house that I know of and was hoping to drive it there if possible. I know a Mopar expert needs to see it. The wants me to call him in 3 weeks - he is packed right now.
 
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FYI we are going to move the PCV hose to the front of the carb and also put new plugs. My present mechanic thought that it was connected to the back of the carb and as long as it got vacuum , it would be fine. (He said thought that either way would be fine but going to change it anyway based on communicated recommendations). That is how the setup was when I brought it in.

After talking with the shop , my present mechanic thinks that the carb is "dumping too much fuel" and that is why he thinks that is causing the backfire. He said when he adjusts the carb he is not getting a response better or worse than what he would expect. I asked if he can spray cleaner in it, but he won't clean it - for that I have to do it or take it to someone else. (by the way if that was true, not sure how the backfire could be just on the drivers side but anyway).

Before anyone gets excited, I am just trying to see if I can get it running better because the nearest Mopar expert is 100 miles away from my house that I know of and was hoping to drive it there if possible. I know a Mopar expert needs to see it. The wants me to call him in 3 weeks - he is packed right now.
Why not just take the carb off and find someone to take it apart. You shouldn't have to travel 100 miles away, I wouldn't think.
 
My mechanic doesn't want to do it as it's outside the scope their shop. They just work on my car on the side.

The guy 100 miles away is a Mopar expert so he can look at from other angles outside of my problem. He was referred to me by someone who was referred to me on this Forum.

As a back up, there is a speed shop a few miles away who could pull the carb but they are not Mopar experts. They are going to call me when they have time to look at. I already sent them pictures. I have them as a second option . This may be all that I need as hopefully my issues aren't serious. What's nice about the Mopar experts is he can look at from a Mopar expert angle and has many replacement parts to swamp in and out to fix the problem or make it better.
 
As an added challenge the winter in NC is having record high temperatures this year and many more want their muscle car worked on this time of year to get their car ready for the season - mechanics are much busier than normal it appears
 
Matchek,
A lot of wrong info about your carb, #963X. It is a Carter carb, not an Edel carb, period.
It was the final 4 bbl carb produced by Carter before Carter stopped making carbs & Edel started making copies. There was a #962X series prior to your model.
They were never called the 'Competition Series' by Carter because Carter already had a line of five Comp Series Carbs # 4748-4762. As you can see from the early part #, these have around for a long time.
All Carter 4bbls are excellent carbs.
 
Some or most of us have CLEARLY STATED that’s it’s a Carter AFB

Now for the one that CLEARLY wants to argue that point

It’s not worth my time

But anyways good explanation
 
Thank you guys for your passion. There have been some that said it was a Carter, and provided numbers, but many who said it was an AfterMarket or a Edelbrach carb. Would you please clarify why you know it is a Carter? Is it based on the looks or the ID # picture that I posted? The best I can read is "1287 9G36S4" or something to that effect. Sorry to belabor this but little has been said as to why they know it was a Carter or aftermarket - just their opinion. By the way, an off topic question, didn't all Carter Carbs have "Carter" imprinted on the carb as well.
 
I think someone has already said it, but you don't need a "Mopar expert" 100 miles and 3 weeks away to look at your car.
These engines are pretty basic and operate the same across all makes - Mopar, Chevy, Ford etc.
Any competent old school mechanic should be able to help you.

Also, you're focussing too much on the carburetor brand/type/cfm. You should be able to bolt on any carb from say 600 to 750 cfm and it will work ok once set up. Ultimate performance might differ, but the engine should run ok with no backfire.

1 or 2 hours of basic checks and I bet it will be either fixed or you'd know what the issue was.
 
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