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1970 Roadrunner won't stay running

Do you have a good spare condenser?
With the Edelbrock carbs you may want to keep the pressure around 4-5.5psi.
What is the rating on the new pump?

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When I first bought the car I was hunting down a no oil pressure problem. I checked the pump (seemed fine) and then drained the oil and it came out slow. So I dropped the pan and found this wrapped around the pick up tube.

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Yup, that'll do it......

Since the engine bay is not original [ Edel carb, good choice ], you might want to consider switching to elec ign. You can buy an elec ign dist cheaply from Summit, & use it with a GM 4 pin module [ also cheap ] that mounts to a heat sink mounted on the side or under the dist. You can use the existing coil & bal res, but if you use an E core coil like the MSD #8207 you can delete the bal res & run 0.060" plug gaps, such is the increase in spark energy. No more points closing up....
 
It appears to be a 75-76 440 spreadbore intake.

You should hook up the pcv and the vacuum advance.
 
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It appears to be a 75-76 440 spreadbore intake.

You should book up the pcv and the vacuum advance.
I'll hook up vacuum advance later. A buddy at work that has a few Mopars is helping me and said it sounds like I could have a vacuum leak so we're trying to eliminate that.
 
consider switching to elec ign
I installed an early Mopar electronic ignition in my ’63 soon after I bought it some 25 years ago. Only two occasions when something went awry, ECU and the ballast. I keep spares in the trunk. Each their own, as some like to stay original and find the old setup reliable – if – it’s serviced as recommended. MO, less hassle with electronic.

Wow, an entire shop rag in the oil pan? New one for me.
 
Do you have a good spare condenser?
With the Edelbrock carbs you may want to keep the pressure around 4-5.5psi.
What is the rating on the new pump?
Thank you again!! Oil pump gear was also faced completely the wrong way when on TDC. I haven't installed it right yet.

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No problem Bobby. Hard to beat NOS when it comes to ignition parts.
Okay, I re-stabbed the oil pump/dist. gear. Points on and adjusted. I had to change the plug wires around to match the right starting place at #1. Everything in proper firing order and #1 is getting spark. It is late so I quickly tried to start it with brake cleaner (I know it's not ideal) and it wouldn't start. I ran out of battery power and I want to get actual gasoline. I also still need whatever gasket goes under dist. I just also installed a new Carter fuel pump.
 
The dist should have an o ring in the mounting base. That is the 'seal' & no further seal/gasket is reqd.
 
So I actually got fuel and it still the same. I can get it to run but not idle. Spark plugs are black and exhaust burns my eyes. This thing is fighting me.
 
What amount did you set the initial timing? What fuel pump did you install?
 
Might be helpful to report what have you tackled…related to the suggestions tossed out? As a wild guess, given your burning eyes, it could be running way rich via carb and/or timing. I’d suggest tracking through what you’ve tried along the suggestion train in this thread. I’m still trying to get over the shop rag in the oil pan..
 
Might be helpful to report what have you tackled…related to the suggestions tossed out? As a wild guess, given your burning eyes, it could be running way rich via carb and/or timing. I’d suggest tracking through what you’ve tried along the suggestion train in this thread. I’m still trying to get over the shop rag in the oil pan..
I haven't got over the shop rag yet either lol. New fuel pump, new points/condenser adjusted, timed engine to cylinder #1 with slot in oil pump, new fuel filter, clean gas tank. I have spark to #1 and it starts but doesn't idle, I have to keep the throttle open to get it to run. Only thing I don't like is spread bore to square bore adapter thing.
 
Did you buy the car with the engine built the way it is now? If so, hate to tell you this but I would be verifying that the timing chain/gearset were installed correctly.
 
Did you buy the car with the engine built the way it is now? If so, hate to tell you this but I would be verifying that the timing chain/gearset were installed correctly.
I was afraid you'd say that. Cause I bought it this way and obviously whoever worked on it before was not very good. I think the cam has been done and that's when the rag was dropped in the oil pan. They also timed it to #6 cylinder. Great!! I need another one of your fantastic videos.
 
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