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1972 Rallye Charger Restomod/Custom

318 Six Pack

Well-Known Member
Local time
6:02 PM
Joined
Mar 17, 2014
Messages
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Location
Knoxville, TN
Will post some pix soon. Should start shooting some video and uploading to YouTube this week on the basic walk-around, what I messed up when I did the body work, etc. First video will be on rust removal and some crazy crap I've seen online on that topic.

As she sits, factory L code car w/318 Carter 2bbl (rebuilt, not sure what previous owner changed in the engine) original block bored .010 over, original T904, original 8.25 rear. All I've done so far is sand the paint off, pulled and filled dents, fixed rust holes, primed.

The plan: Will take engine apart, check everything at the machine shop. Adding six pack setup on top, probably changing heads and cam, and a few other things. If the bores look okay, might stick with where that is. If it needs to be bored, will go to .030 over. Sorry bare aluminum lovers, that is getting painted like it came from the factory from the carbs to the oil pan.

Transmission fluid leak near the front, probably cracked torque converter. Going to keep the 904 and upgrade planetary, clutches, etc. add a TF-1 shift kit suggested by Tom Hand in this article: http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/torqueflite-tom-hand.html

Rear end just needs to be cleaned up and painted. Considering higher gearing, don't know yet.

Keeping factory color and general paint scheme, except will be smoothing the bumpers and painting them black. Door louvers and trunk/tail stripe detail will be painted on. The hood blackout was painted on too, satin. Have a black stripe around the bottom now in POR-15, and that will be covered with bed liner, as well as the underside.

Adding torque (HEMI) boxes, frame tie-in, etc. Some day I hope to replace front suspension with the Magnum Force tube unit. Rear suspension probably will keep the leaf and do a Hotchkiss upgrade there. As for brakes, since the plan includes 17" Magnum 500 wheels, going to go with a larger front disk but keep it to the proportion of the disk to 14" wheel I have now. Rear, instead of switching to disks I might just upgrade to 15" drums since they hardly do any stopping anyway but do get some use as an emergency brake.

Now I just need to get a job to support this, or have my YouTube channel become as popular as Adam Carolla's podcasts :)
 
If you are looking for Purple Power's De-Ruster at Advance Auto Parts, or anywhere else, you are wasting your time. Well, not anywhere else, you can order it on Amazon.com, or get it direct for $27/case. For some reason they are still listing Advance as a retailer even though Advance has not carried it for a while. I saw a couple of items at Lowes that should work, they are rust removers with phosphoric acid and are about $8/quart or less.
 
Just took a quick walk around the car and... the rust is not as bad as I was expecting, but looks like some came up in places I was not expecting. Like down in corners where I used temporary POR-15 and glass. Oh well. For now, wire brush, scuff pad, phosphoric acid and etching primer are all the work going into those spots. Going to get the fuel line cleared out and get her running again, then try to get the money together for some engine upgrades and a new torque converter.
 
Here are some old pix:
About one month before purchase
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After I did the dent filling, rust chipping, priming and blocking. in background is some Air Force art.
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Valance is inside car. Will be doing both valances in bed liner before bolting back up.
IMG_0012.JPG

SAIGA-12 after some trap shooting.
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A little extra smoothing on the sail panel.
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I know I have more pix somewhere, just a matter of finding them.
 
Nice project, sounds like a cool build. I like the color that it was, looks pretty cool in green.
 
A little work in progress to do on it, but it will be a nice car when finished.
 
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