318 Mods, looking for suggestions
- Thread starter Plymouth71
- Start date
Montclaire
Well-Known Member
Well, at the end of the day, this is not a cheap hobby. We would all like for everything to be finished yesterday and cost us nothing but that is not reality.
You don’t think the engine has ever been apart but it has later heads and exhaust manifolds? Obviously something changed over the years. If the bottom end is untouched from 1971 it really should get torn down and inspected, and at the very least get new rings, bearings and seals. The heads sound like they need work and that should include new springs to match whatever cam you choose. Do a compression test and go from there.
You have mismatched parts that you won or were given to you, so trade or sell them for what you actually need. Most of us have figured that trick out a long time ago.
Lastly, you should plan to spend a couple bucks on swapping gears for the rear. In fact, you might even want to start there before opening up the motor. 8 1/4s were used in Jeeps in the 80s/90s and the carriers interchange up to like 1996 or 1997 - many good threads on this at FABO and you must have Jeeps in Canada, eh?
You don’t think the engine has ever been apart but it has later heads and exhaust manifolds? Obviously something changed over the years. If the bottom end is untouched from 1971 it really should get torn down and inspected, and at the very least get new rings, bearings and seals. The heads sound like they need work and that should include new springs to match whatever cam you choose. Do a compression test and go from there.
You have mismatched parts that you won or were given to you, so trade or sell them for what you actually need. Most of us have figured that trick out a long time ago.
Lastly, you should plan to spend a couple bucks on swapping gears for the rear. In fact, you might even want to start there before opening up the motor. 8 1/4s were used in Jeeps in the 80s/90s and the carriers interchange up to like 1996 or 1997 - many good threads on this at FABO and you must have Jeeps in Canada, eh?
Exactly. Swap out a 2.76 for a 3.55 or better and you have an instant tire burner. Even with your 2 barrel 318.
rumblefish360
Well-Known Member
Very nice car. This is what I would do, FWIW...
Use the HEI from Skip, the QJ on top of the OE intake and get a cam a good step up from stock that can still work with the stock converter. (Under 220@050)
Your gear ratio, tire size and cars weight are super useful in cam selection. Also! Do you have lower brakes?
Sell the other parts to fund the cam.
Find the list number for the Holley (on the air horn) and use it in the for sale ad.
Plymouth71
Waterslide Decal Artist
Thank you. I have put 13 k on it since I bought it 8 years ago. This year I've already put on 1k since May 15th when I pulled her out of storage.
Plymouth71
Waterslide Decal Artist
You mis-read something somewhere. I have a second 318 with later heads and exhaust manifolds. My car is all original.
That is something I am considering, however as mentioned previously, I don't have the room to do it myself at this time, nor the $ to pay someone else to do it. I'm just looking for advice on what to do so I can have a plan going forward.
Not to be rude, but again that is what I want to do, looking for advice on what to part with and what to keep for a mild street build.
This is something that I am questioning. I haven't worked with gears since highschool and I'm a little fuzzy. I'd like to upgrade, is there a resource that can help me identify what I'm looking for?
Thank you. All for your responses.
Plymouth71
Waterslide Decal Artist
But which set up is best? Recommendations are always appreciated.
Plymouth71
Waterslide Decal Artist
??? Not sure what you mean.
They are drum all around, but I'm always looking for a front disc set up. Unfortunately where I live all the junkyards are picked clean for most vintage stuff. There are estimates that we have more vintage cars percapita than any other major city in North America. I think it is because of our long winters. Most gearheads have a project or two to work on during the cold snowy days/nights.
Addco was the only thing available in the 1970's when I had my Satellite from 1974 to 1980 (when I sold it). I never made the upgrade as a "poor" college student with not much spare time.
There are others here on FBBO with recent anti-roll bar upgrade experience. Try posting for their feedback in https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/forums/brakes-steering-suspension.21/
rumblefish360
Well-Known Member
Plymouth71
Waterslide Decal Artist
It was a fat finger issue that should have read;
"Do you have POWER brakes?"
LoL. No. I'm thinking of getting set up for it though
rumblefish360
Well-Known Member
Then the tighter the centerline (AKA - A lower number, 110-108-106) reduces vacuum making power brakes harder to operate as intended via the OEM.
64Belvedere
Well-Known Member
Blue smoke on startup, I'd look at the valve seals first not necessarily the seats. Pull the valve covers and look for pieces of seal. They can be fixed with an on head spring compressor and an air fitting for the plug hole.
rumblefish360
Well-Known Member
All current aftermarket set ups are all very close to each other. Hotchkin’s has a very nice set up. You might also look into ADDCO. Just get both bars from the same manufacturer. Install them together.
69_Coronet
Well-Known Member
I recently installed a set of Firm Feel anti-roll (sway) bars on my car. The installation was a smooth process. The only issue I ran into was that I needed to move the fuel line a bit to clear the mount for the rear bar. One advantage of the Firm Feel rear bar over some of the others is that it mounts to the frame rather than on the rear end. This reduces the unsprung weight of the car which is good for handling, although the effect is fairly small with a 10 lb bar and a 300 lb rear end. As mentioned in post #34, install both ends of the car at once to avoid balance (understeer, oversteer) issues. Cheers!
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