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383 build up

Wyrmrider it came with a 2 barrel/intake(have a 4 barrel Eddie 600 cm now). The block is 0.040 over and have dual exhaust and stock manifolds with the (correct for that yr) dual plane manifold. The heads are the 516 that came on the car and was thinking about those E series heads. I had spoke to Bob (Mr six pack) about one of his cams as well. Yeah it' a cool car but want to have more get up and go. Some have suggested a set of 906 heads and I only want to run pump gas which we have as high 91octane here in Co. It has the stock converter/gears and 727 auto. Some have even suggested just upping the gears and slapping a shift kit in the old girl and upping carb from a 600 to a 700 and going from there as well. Just kinda lost I guess. I'm not wanting a race/strip car just some more go when I hit the pedal.
 
9.2 compression 66 pistons were dished- 10.0:1 FT
Compression Height Head CC
=====valve reliefs 516- 915 w chamber work Deck Clearance
-- =====-------72 cc75cc78.5cc 80 CC 84 86 88 CC
1.935 CH ------------------------------------------------------------for 0.0 deck
------------------------------11.34-------------------10.34 .125 dome NLA
1.920------------------------ 9.77--------------------8.94--------.012 .015 Speed Pro L2315F L2315NF flat top no valve reliefs
1.916 -4 ------ 9.8-------------9.1----8.8------------------.019
1.912 4.5 cc -- 10.7-------10.4-----9.6-----------------.023
1.908 -8 ----- 9.8---------------9.1----8,8------8.5--------.027 KB 162
1.908 0 ----- 10.7 ------------9.8----9.4-------9.1--------.027 KB 400
1.848 FT------ ---------------8.5-------------------8.1 ----------------.087 SP 366AP Silvolite 1271

note the big difference with rebuilder " compensated" pistons

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/bb/42.html for head comparison
 
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Most will not agree but keep what you have. The power hindrances is your carb selection. Go to 700 cfm min. and tume, tume, tume. If that doesnt get you there then lots of research. But you have got to know what your goal is and be realistic about it.
 
Either way a 3.91 or 4.10 really wakes up a 383.
Doug
 
Wyrm, your posts are a little confusing to me this morning.

OP, how heavy is the car?

For a inexpensive performance engine, top to bottom, , open air cleaner
On top of a 750, MP or Edelbrock dual size lane, Edelbrock E-streets, and headers into 2-1/2 “H” piped exhaust.

The cams duration should match the performance rpm of which you plane to be in. And this field is very wide and open.
 
I run the Mopar .455 272 degree cam in the 66 charger a pretty heavy car.
3:23 gears, 906 heads shaved to get 9.4 to 1, 68-69 manifolds, 2-1/4" exhaust with H-pipe, Weiand intake, it has Atomic EFI but ran a Carter AFB 625 CFM prior which ran well.
All around it's a very nice combination very good on the highway.
 
Ok 2bbl car came with stock dished pistons but you say .040 over- if rebuilder pistons see chart above
factory claims 9.2 but more likely mid 8s with factory replacement pistons (not likely) and very low 8's with cast replacement pistons and thick builder head gaskets
(Don has one and a half points more compression than you do- makes a big difference)
keep your heads and pocket port them yourself and put in 1.74 ex valves- but as you say the cost with guides and a valve job makes the
edelbrocks attractive- get the small cc ones if you go that route
forget the 902-906 etc you get even lower compression and worse chamber
sorry about the chart above- forum munges the layout I just made the rebuilder compression line BOLD
I'd appreciate comments from all assuming that the short block and compression are in the low 8's
lets have a compression test posted before we go on- just in case higher compression pistons were used in the rebuild
 
Do you think there' any real benifit to running a EFI system.
 
As far as edit horsepower? No. As far as running very good as in, fishing with good mileage? Then yes.
 
I run the Mopar .455 272 degree cam in the 66 charger a pretty heavy car.
3:23 gears, 906 heads shaved to get 9.4 to 1, 68-69 manifolds, 2-1/4" exhaust with H-pipe, Weiand intake, it has Atomic EFI but ran a Carter AFB 625 CFM prior which ran well.
All around it's a very nice combination very good on the highway.
Hey Dan! Isn’t that Mopar 272 cam a duration of 230 at 50?
 
Never heard of a “Blue” cam unless it is the Wolverine “Blue Racer” cam from another company.
“Purple” cams are MoPar Performance.

Why do you want a wide 114 LSA?
IMO, copy the Road Runner engine and use that cam. It works well with 3.55’s.
Cylinder head wise, the OE head is just fine with a good valve job. The RR cam doesn’t lift the valve very high and all the power Is in the valve job. Increasing the valve size helps but, IMO, a costly expense that is hard to justify.
Moving away from the cast iron intake which is very good by the way, the Edelbrock Performer is an excellent fit. IMO, a 750 cfm carb would be excellent.
Why does @pushrod disapprove this post?
 
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Rumblefish thanks, my brother n law loves his but I told him I really think it' not setup for power. Now I'm sure if you had a lap top and software you could drive around and tune it up for HP. I just read a nice article old one called "383 resto 2 rad". Stock heads, bigger cam,headers and intake with 850 demon carb and it made upwards of high 470's with plenty of Tq
 
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Hey Dan! Isn’t that Mopar 272 cam a duration of 230 at 50?
Yes, if you like to use the duration at .050 thing I believe it is 230. With some compression it is a great all around cam for a 383.
Idles well, good powerband range, nice sound, easy on the valvetrain and it's not bad on fuel consumption. Mine is about 30 years old.
 
I'll go dig around and post up a Dyno Sheet on a "resto" 383 RR Engine we did about 10 years ago using strictly a rebuilder Cast Piston Engine Kit.
The only additions were:
* ARP Connecting Rod Bolts,
* Comp XE274H,
* Torker 383 Intake W/750 cfm Holley
* Ductile Iron Rockers/Pushrods.
If memory serves me, it was good for 434 hp with 444 Ft/Lbs ? But I forget which cast iron heads we used 906's ? or 516's with 1.74" Exhausts installed ? No matter they were right around 225/230 cfm @ .500" Lift.
It's a pretty Keep it Simple Stupid(KISS) build.... but as always, there are a few nuances to PAY ATTENTION to when doing it and don't "skip" or otherwise "substitute' crap as "good enough", and NO.... no Lunati/Hughes/007 "Top Secret" or ancient Chinese "secret" Cam is going to make a hill 'O beans difference because the Engine CAN NOT USE IT.
About the only special stuff it required once installed in the Car was an 11" Converter to allow the wee-83 to get going outa the hole ? But by all accounts it was... and still is a very satisfying ride.
 
Mopar 272 would be about as big as you would want to go with HP configuration but is happier with looser converter
for low compression I'd like to get the intake valve closed earlier See Don's posts above where he had 9.4:1
AS Challenger says the engine really can't use a big cam-- what converter and gears challenger?
what did your compression come out to with a re-builder kit- which are all too common and may be what we are dealing with here
as Challanger says keep it simple and work to optimize what you have
Now a race only is different - you can use a really big cam but don't run it under 5000 rpm and idle about 2000
 
Stock converter and stock gears for now. I'l need to do the engine and work my way back lol, well that' what the wife has said haha
 
Yes, if you like to use the duration at .050 thing I believe it is 230. With some compression it is a great all around cam for a 383.
Idles well, good powerband range, nice sound, easy on the valvetrain and it's not bad on fuel consumption. Mine is about 30 years old.


No. The 272 measures 221-222° @ 0.050".
 
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