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383 spun main?

running cold like a Y block ford which always sludge up
but not with low miles
happens when not running a t- stat but not with low miles
so where did the sludge come from
 
From that pic, it appears the heads have been milled more than just a clean up cut.

If you measure the outer row of head bolt bosses it should give you a good idea of how much.
Stock, the thickness is a nominal 1.00”

I’d pull the valves out of offending positions...... see if there is adequate lube in the guides.


Agreed on the big mill job. Not sure I’d disassemble though. Thinking it’s a way to find sticky valve guides? Looks too clean for that.
 
I will probably be changing the valve springs for the new cam anyways, so I can look at everything while I’m there.
 
Agreed on the big mill job. Not sure I’d disassemble though. Thinking it’s a way to find sticky valve guides? Looks too clean for that.

The head is off and on the bench, and you wouldn’t spend 5-10mins to pull the valves out and have a look?

I know I would.

The heads have obviously been thru the machine shop.
Who knows what’s been done, and/or if any of what was done...... was done properly.
Now is the time to have a look.
 
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I'd hand lap them just to check seats. Some say it's a waste of time. I'd do both heads, do it once and do it right. Is sludge all over or just in the pan?
 
The valley looks clean.

My concern would be poorly done guide work...... with possibly inadequate clearance.

If you pull the head apart, you can see exactly what’s been done and how things are holding up.
 
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Both heads are coming off. Sludge was only present in the pan, but did find a little in bottom of the lifters.
Could anyone recommend me a cam? Not looking for anything crazy. Street use only. Has a small stall, although I can’t remember the numbers, with stock gearing.
 
FYI, when you put the heads back on, do NOT use "Copper Coat" on composite (non-metal) head gaskets like the previous person did!!!
 
From that pic, it appears the heads have been milled more than just a clean up cut.

If you measure the outer row of head bolt bosses it should give you a good idea of how much.
Stock, the thickness is a nominal 1.00”

I’d pull the valves out of offending positions...... see if there is adequate lube in the guides.
I measured the thickness at the bosses and they are at 1.00” if not a hair over on average.
 
Don’t overthink the cam.
You’ll likely get a wide variety of answers......
Imo, keep it very somple.

-Comp 268H
-smaller summit cam
-stock replacement cam

For the $$$, it’s pretty hard to argue with the Summit cam.

I guess those heads weren’t cut very much afterall.
 
if you need a coating Hylomar spray works even on the old red gaskets
good news on the heads being cut
If you check out the Elgin cams they have many choices at resonable prices, or the Summit cam
but stock works
but figure out your compression first- even befoe buying head gaskets
otherwise 268 size cams may be way to big for your current combo
274 would be undriveable in a low compression motor with stock chassis
 
Both heads are coming off. Sludge was only present in the pan, but did find a little in bottom of the lifters.
Could anyone recommend me a cam? Not looking for anything crazy. Street use only. Has a small stall, although I can’t remember the numbers, with stock gearing.
Are you sure it’s sludge?? The last place I’d expect sludge to be is the bottom of the lifters. We dropped the pan off a customer build one time and it was full of it. It was everywhere! Turned out they used ARP moly lube as assembly lube and used it liberally....
 
Are you sure it’s sludge?? The last place I’d expect sludge to be is the bottom of the lifters. We dropped the pan off a customer build one time and it was full of it. It was everywhere! Turned out they used ARP moly lube as assembly lube and used it liberally....
I’m certain. It was deep enough that the pick-up was submerged. It would literally have to be 1-2 entire tubes of assembly lube to equal this.
 
Im right about where you are but I have to put the engine in (gamble, bought years ago) the car still. Half my pushrods were bent, lifters had skid marks, cam lobe or so wiped and a wicked stretched timing chain. Top it off with every piston had been kissed by every valve. Heads were fairly fresh. I had all the valves checked and somehow manged to have only 1 slightly tweaked intake valve. The motor was apparently over revved at some point and this was the result. Had the valve dealt with, ordered a Summit timing gear set, dug out some stock pushrods, had some new Summit lifters submerged in oil for months doing nothing and a 60K mile 440HP cam with factory springs out of a 70 Challenger RT a relative had lying around so he offered it to me. The motor is clean inside, rods and mains looked good and were standard size in all the journals and the bores looked good with a small ridge up top so I put everything in and ran with it. Lubed the **** out of everything and everything feels looks and sounds good when you turn it. If it dont run right....hello stroked 5.7!
71 383HP.JPG
71 383HPb.JPG
 
Im right about where you are but I have to put the engine in (gamble, bought years ago) the car still. Half my pushrods were bent, lifters had skid marks, cam lobe or so wiped and a wicked stretched timing chain. Top it off with every piston had been kissed by every valve. Heads were fairly fresh. I had all the valves checked and somehow manged to have only 1 slightly tweaked intake valve. The motor was apparently over revved at some point and this was the result. Had the valve dealt with, ordered a Summit timing gear set, dug out some stock pushrods, had some new Summit lifters submerged in oil for months doing nothing and a 60K mile 440HP cam with factory springs out of a 70 Challenger RT a relative had lying around so he offered it to me. The motor is clean inside, rods and mains looked good and were standard size in all the journals and the bores looked good with a small ridge up top so I put everything in and ran with it. Lubed the **** out of everything and everything feels looks and sounds good when you turn it. If it dont run right....hello stroked 5.7!
View attachment 971036 View attachment 971037
I ended up finding a total of 6 non-factory pushrods. Keeping in mind that I’m not real familiar with the older engines, drivetrain issues may be a common problem. Or there might be an underlying issue with the valvetrain that’s been present for quite some time. This is the main reason for me wanting to change the springs while I'm there. I will be going with the summit cam, just not sure if it I’ll be the big one or small one.
 
after spinning the oil pump with a hex shaft turn the motor twice at 90 degree intervals to bleed those lifters down
if puped up full they can bend things
summit cam?? te old cam dynamics ones??
take a look ar Elgin
but for the difference in coin I'd go Voodoo
 
Update......
I disassembled both heads. Apparently at some point a rodent had got inside the intake and made a nest with some sort of seeds. This caused one valve to stick closed and two more hard to operate. The one stuck closed had to be knocked out with a wood block. I pulled every valve completely out and cleaned the heads up. Lapped the seats and installed new seals and valve springs. I also replaced the cam, push rods and lifters. The car runs awesome now with great oil pressure.
 
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