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383???

Cool! I plan on buying the Eldebrock heads for it. And rebuilding it as well. So which 383 motors were better? Or were they all the same?


That is still a good engine. I wouldn't worry about it. The pistons are for an open chambered 906, so you can do a lot of things if you choose to. Whereabouts in Houston are you from?

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I'm from the northeast side of houston, right outside the 610 loop

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8 was what?

I believe 8 was it.
 
I used to live off of 1960 and treshwiig, east of I-45 in 1988. An Enron Survivor.
 
Never seen a block with a 9 but saw them with an 8....so 8 was probably it as far as how many times that particular mold was used. Molds were usually 'adjusted' each time they were used but after so many times they get to the point where you just start over with a new one. Anyone know who many molds were being poured at any one particular time? Had to be a lot to keep up with production....
 
I have seen a -11 block, but I think that was the limit. My RR383 was a 10, My GTS 383 is a 9 , and my Cuda 383 is an 8
 
Oht ok cool. Thanks man. So mines isn't a low number :/

Never seen a block with a 9 but saw them with an 8....so 8 was probably it as far as how many times that particular mold was used. Molds were usually 'adjusted' each time they were used but after so many times they get to the point where you just start over with a new one. Anyone know who many molds were being poured at any one particular time? Had to be a lot to keep up with production....
 
Oht ok cool. Thanks man. So mines isn't a low number :/
Doesn't really matter so long as whoever was working in the foundry was doing their job. If you plan on building a lot of horsepower, it's always a good idea to sonic test the block. I've done low number blocks before and they tested out with too much core shift.
 
I have a 1968 383 standard block with a -12
This one I WILL have sonic checked before any significant work is done to it. I can almost smell the core shift... ok maybe that's not the core shift. LOLOLOL
 
Where can I take it to do a sonic test? I hope mines does fine.

Doesn't really matter so long as whoever was working in the foundry was doing their job. If you plan on building a lot of horsepower, it's always a good idea to sonic test the block. I've done low number blocks before and they tested out with too much core shift.

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What exactly is a sonic test by the way.
 
I used to live off of 1960 and treshwiig, east of I-45 in 1988. An Enron Survivor.

North on I-45, right on 1960. about two miles east, then one mile north, in Spring. I transferred to the gas pipeline in Iowa. Enron now, is a sad long story.
 
From an old Chrysler engineer, probably long gone now. He stated 8 was usually it unless they were holding together well, or were behind and had to crank the blocks out. I have seen a 10 but not higher. They are out there. This is Chrysler, remember. There were no rules set in stone. If it checks out, run it.
 
Damn that really sucks. Sorry to hear man. Hope you doing good!

North on I-45, right on 1960. about two miles east, then one mile north, in Spring. I transferred to the gas pipeline in Iowa. Enron now, is a sad long story.

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Ok I see now. I should really go get it checked before I start anything. Anybody have an idea how much it cost?

 
IIRC, I paid 80 bucks to get one checked. You need to take a hone to the cylinders first if they are dirty. Whoever checks it needs clean cylinders to get a good check. If they are gungy all way down, all you need to do is clean it enough to see some shiny metal. The shop I use is kinda far but for a sonic check, any shop that has the tool should be able to give you a good read without having to drive very far. I have a hone if your block needs it.
 
Thanks cranky, I'll let you know. Im going to start taking my block apart this weekend.

IIRC, I paid 80 bucks to get one checked. You need to take a hone to the cylinders first if they are dirty. Whoever checks it needs clean cylinders to get a good check. If they are gungy all way down, all you need to do is clean it enough to see some shiny metal. The shop I use is kinda far but for a sonic check, any shop that has the tool should be able to give you a good read without having to drive very far. I have a hone if your block needs it.
 
I have a 1968 383 standard block with a -12
This one I WILL have sonic checked before any significant work is done to it. I can almost smell the core shift... ok maybe that's not the core shift. LOLOLOL

Just so you didnt think I was pullin yer leg, I just took a pic
IMG_5850.JPG
 
Ok guys I started break down the motor to start the build. But is it me or do these pistons look new?

image.jpgimage.jpg
 
Could be, or low time. Piston tops, and sidewalls...and the cylinders themselves, are what matter.

You won't know until you pull it down, and measure things up, and what shape the pistons/cylinders are in.
 
Hey delf, I was looking at your parts list on another post. If I were you, I wouldn't use the pistons listed. They are a cast piston and are gonna be down in the hole a bit. You will have a low compression motor. I know IQ has done a post on low compression motors, but if you are rebuilding the entire engine, I'd use a different piston.
 
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