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400 big block with Edelbrock cylinder heads dyno

Michael400

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Hi its Michael here again recently I put on some new cylinder heads onto my 73 Dodge charger and I took it in to get dynoed and just wanted to share the Dyno Run

400 big block 30 over
7194 Edelbrock cam Camshaft Specifications: - Duration @ .050 Intake: 238 degrees - Duration @ .050 Exhaust: 246 degrees - Lift @ Valve Intake: .480" - Lift @ Valve Exhaust: .495" - Lobe Separation: 110 Degrees - Intake Centerline: 105 Degrees

750 Edelbrock Performer Series Carburetor 1407
Edelbrock RPM intake manifold 7186
TTI headers 1-3/4
Two and a half inch exhaust with MagnaFlow mufflers
Dome Pistons
355 rear end gears
Accel ignition coil
Auto lights spark plugs
Edelbrock RPM cylinder heads
Timeing at 36
Firecore spark plugs wires
Mopar distributor stock version
Torque converter TCI stall 2400 - 2600
180 thermostat
Power steering
AC delete
Stock crank stock fan clutch stock 727 with a shifter Improvement kit
It made 325 hp and 380 tq
Rear tire 275 60 r15

Do these look right or am I down on power?

40191.jpeg
 
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I have a couple decades of experience on a Dynojet.

It’s hard to compare unlocked auto numbers vs manual trans.

A lot of variance in converter efficiency.

I would get a graph in rpm and figure out converter slip.

Also what is compression ratio and exhaust system look like?
 
I have a couple decades of experience on a Dynojet.

It’s hard to compare unlocked auto numbers vs manual trans.

A lot of variance in converter efficiency.

I would get a graph in rpm and figure out converter slip.

Also what is compression ratio and exhaust system look like?
The compression I don't really know the last time I checked the cranking pressure was 140 to 150 but that was with stock heads and the exhaust is long tube headers with two and a half inch with MagnaFlow mufflers

If I remember correctly it started at 3000 and ended at 5500
 
That is a nice power/worthwhile improvement with just a head swap imo.
 
325 to the rear wheels is not bad at all.

...and 50 HP from a head swap? Not bad either.

Calculating the compression would be nice.

Interesting cam. Not familiar with that one.

Sounds like it was a decent choice, and not overboard. Same with the converter.

Do you know the make and part number of the pistons? Piston choice and expense is what kills a LOT of 400 builds.
 
Sounds about right. I made 415 HP and 450 TQ at the crank with a similar combination, but a bit less cam. That sounds like the performer RPM cam. My buddy built a 383 with that cam and it made about the same power.
 
Do you have access to any other carburetors to TRY

Holley 3310 is pretty simple and basic but can make great power/street carb

If you like Edelbrock go with a AVS 800 or AVS2 800


Did you get any air fuel readings with the Edelbrock 1407/1411 series

Check plug color
 
Who prints a dyno graph with mph and not rpm and no torque numbers? And your af ratio is a bit on the rich side. I take it you didn't do any optimizing on the dyno, like jet changes or timing changes?
 
325 to the rear wheels is not bad at all.

...and 50 HP from a head swap? Not bad either.

Calculating the compression would be nice.

Interesting cam. Not familiar with that one.

Sounds like it was a decent choice, and not overboard. Same with the converter.

Do you know the make and part number of the pistons? Piston choice and expense is what kills a LOT of 400 builds.
It definitely made a difference and as for the part number for the piston I don't know my dad bought them sometime in the 70s but they are Dome they weren't zero deck though
 
Do you have access to any other carburetors to TRY

Holley 3310 is pretty simple and basic but can make great power/street carb

If you like Edelbrock go with a AVS 800 or AVS2 800


Did you get any air fuel readings with the Edelbrock 1407/1411 series

Check plug color
Right now I don't have any other than a carburetor 1407 the guy at the dino said it was running a little rich so when I came home I changed out a jet and a rod to make it a little leaner it does feel a little bit more stronger on the top end now
 
Who prints a dyno graph with mph and not rpm and no torque numbers? And your af ratio is a bit on the rich side. I take it you didn't do any optimizing on the dyno, like jet changes or timing changes?
That's what the guy print out for me he did tell me that it was on the rich side so when I got home I did Lean it out a little bit but we didn't try it on the dyno no timing changes either
 
That's what the guy print out for me he did tell me that it was on the rich side so when I got home I did Lean it out a little bit but we didn't try it on the dyno no timing changes either
Go back, if it's nit too far, and tell him to change speed to rpm and put torque on left scale and power on right scale and lock the axis. It will make a lot more sense as far as a dyno graph goes.
 
Go back, if it's nit too far, and tell him to change speed to rpm and put torque on left scale and power on right scale and lock the axis. It will make a lot more sense as far as a dyno graph goes.
I will try to get a hold of him and ask him if he can send it to me
 
I have a similar 400 combo w/KB pistons about 9.5 comp and 906 heads to make about the same power and it runs around 13.0s in the 1/4. My goal was to run on pump gas and use up some old unused parts I had on the shelf like an old DC Purple hyd cam. I have about the same cranking pressure as you, and now suspect another point of compression would have worked with that cam, made more power and I still would be able to run the pump gas.
 
I have a similar 400 combo w/KB pistons about 9.5 comp and 906 heads to make about the same power and it runs around 13.0s in the 1/4. My goal was to run on pump gas and use up some old unused parts I had on the shelf like an old DC Purple hyd cam. I have about the same cranking pressure as you, and now suspect another point of compression would have worked with that cam, made more power and I still would be able to run the pump gas.
That's pretty cool how does it run on the street? What kind of car do you have? Do you have any gears? is it automatic? I wish I knew my compression rate but I don't know
 
Good question, yea I guess I drove it over 500 miles last year testing, having fun, and driving to Pacific Raceways about 20 miles freeway drive each way. Was full exhaust until two days ago. Rebuilt my old trailer this winter, had clearance issues loading, so pulled exhaust. Yesterday trailered for first time to the other "local track", Bremerton, which would be too far to drive.

Cooling; alum 3 row radiator I bought on eBay, started with belt drive everything, reg fan, (no room for a clutch fan), some sort of factory shroud I had, and it worked pretty good, except when I got stuck in traffic on 90 deg day on Hwy 18 when there was a wreck and stop and go for about half an hour. Switched mid-summer last year to electric WP and Fan after winning a few rounds, and then loosing when we couldn't get it cooled down between, later, quicker round time.

It's a Dart, 3.9 gears, just getting ready to switch to 4.30s. Full auto with about 5k shifts done by my old buddy Pat Blais. Has a 9" converter made by a local rebuilder, around 3.6k stall.
 
That is a nice power/worthwhile improvement with just a head swap imo.
Yah I guess it is. But nowadays with the price of parts that 40hp gain cost $2,000.00. I know it’s a required step for a total package and other future upgrades But I can’t help to wonder what a few bits for 40 bucks and some die grinding would produce on the 346 heads.

to the OP it would be interesting to give the oem one’s a good home port and see what they do again, good excuse to learn how to port too! - the next thing you do if you want a lot more power could be a cut down 440 crank and some new pistons, with a larger cam. That‘ll really wake it up! But it sounds good right now and should feel peppy at what you’ve achieved so far.
 
Yah I guess it is. But nowadays with the price of parts that 40hp gain cost $2,000.00. I know it’s a required step for a total package and other future upgrades But I can’t help to wonder what a few bits for 40 bucks and some die grinding would produce on the 346 heads.

to the OP it would be interesting to give the oem one’s a good home port and see what they do again, good excuse to learn how to port too! - the next thing you do if you want a lot more power could be a cut down 440 crank and some new pistons, with a larger cam. That‘ll really wake it up! But it sounds good right now and should feel peppy at what you’ve achieved so far.
I was thinking of doing that To port my stock cylinder heads 346 Also i'm thinking of putting bigger headers
 
It might be worth the gasket cost to measure the deck height and know the actual compression. I'd suspect you may be able to reassemble with a thinner gasket and get close to a true 10:1 and pick up power, if it works out that way.
 
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