400 big block dyno run

Michael400

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Hi I'm Michael I'm new here and I'm currently working on a 73 Dodge Charger done some modifications took it to the dyno just want to see if these are good numbers what do you think it'll run on the quarter mile or 1/8 of a mile

400 big block 30 over
7194 Edelbrock cam Camshaft Specifications: - Duration @ .050 Intake: 238 degrees - Duration @ .050 Exhaust: 246 degrees - Lift @ Valve Intake: .480" - Lift @ Valve Exhaust: .495" - Lobe Separation: 110 Degrees - Intake Centerline: 105 Degrees

750 Edelbrock Performer Series Carburetor 1411
Edelbrock RPM intake manifold 7186
TTI headers 1-3/4
Two and a half inch exhaust with MagnaFlow mufflers
High top pistons don't know the actual compression last time I checked the crank pressure they were at 145 to 155
323 rear end gears
Accel ignition coil
NGK XR5 spark plugs
Stock cylinder head [346 not ported]
Timeing at 35
Firecore spark plugs wires
Mopar distributor stock version
Torque converter TCI stall 2400 - 2600
180 thermostat
Power steering AC installed but not working
Stock crank stock fan clutch stock 727 with a shifter Improvement kit
It made 286 hp and 330 tq
Rear tire 275 60 r15
michael73b.png
 
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ruffcut

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Weight of car and driver will also be a factor. ruffcut
 

davek

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welcome to the site and we love pics. Hope someone can tell you. You did not mention the back tires or if you had a sure grip.
 

Jerry Hall

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Welcome from Alabama. 145-155 cylinder pressure doesn't equal 11:1 compression to me.
 

RemCharger

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My 67 runs 13.60-.90 with 383 and 3.23s.
I would think you'll be around there or low 14s.
Mt question is, what pistons did you find to get that kind of compression in a 400??
What's the deck height?
 

slepr1

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My heavy Cordoba weighed in at around 4200 with driver. My first 440 rebuild had 3.91 sg gears, purple shaft cam and everything else similar to your build. For that build I did not dyno but I guessed it has around 400hp and maybe 340hp at the rear wheels. Quarter mile times were between 14.4-14.8 with slicks. I think you'll be high 14's or low 15's in quarter.

Your 3.23 gears are a good street/highway gear. If you want better acceleration you'll need more gear. My latest build I finally chucked the heavy iron heads and went with Edelbrocks aluminum heads. A few other mods and it dyno'd at 500hp.
 

Michael400

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My heavy Cordoba weighed in at around 4200 with driver. My first 440 rebuild had 3.91 sg gears, purple shaft cam and everything else similar to your build. For that build I did not dyno but I guessed it has around 400hp and maybe 340hp at the rear wheels. Quarter mile times were between 14.4-14.8 with slicks. I think you'll be high 14's or low 15's in quarter.

Your 3.23 gears are a good street/highway gear. If you want better acceleration you'll need more gear. My latest build I finally chucked the heavy iron heads and went with Edelbrocks aluminum heads. A few other mods and it dyno'd at 500hp.
I was actually thinking about putting 3:55 you think that'll be a good Street Highway gear I don't really use the highway that much freeway
 

33 IMP

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I was actually thinking about putting 3:55 you think that'll be a good Street Highway gear I don't really use the highway that much freeway
I wouldn't bother with a change to 3.55, from 3.23. That less than 10%change, and wouldn't be worth the expense, in my opinion. If you had a 2.76, then yeah, It would transform the car!
If you want a gear change you can feel, that MEANS something, i would put 3.91s in it. 21% difference! Just be aware your cruising rpm will go up 21% too.
As for performance, if you weigh 200 lbs, I'm betting your charger will be around 4100 at the starting line. Also, if you have 280hp at the wheels, I assume 330 at the crankshaft (somewhere around 20% drive train loss). Wallace says a mid 8, 1/8mile, and a mid 13 quarter. I think that is wildly optimistic. With good tires, (t/a's arent!!) I would be very happy with a high 13/low 14 with your combo, as it is with 3.23.
 

Paul_G

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My 72 Charger weighed 4200# with me in it. 3.91 gear sure grip, automatic, 275/60-15 tire. Dynoed at the tire 255HP, 350 TQ. Ran low 15's quarter mile. Best run ever in Vegas was a 14.9. You are very similar in weight and power.
 

Michael400

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I wouldn't bother with a change to 3.55, from 3.23. That less than 10%change, and wouldn't be worth the expense, in my opinion. If you had a 2.76, then yeah, It would transform the car!
If you want a gear change you can feel, that MEANS something, i would put 3.91s in it. 21% difference! Just be aware your cruising rpm will go up 21% too.
As for performance, if you weigh 200 lbs, I'm betting your charger will be around 4100 at the starting line. Also, if you have 280hp at the wheels, I assume 330 at the crankshaft (somewhere around 20% drive train loss). Wallace says a mid 8, 1/8mile, and a mid 13 quarter. I think that is wildly optimistic. With good tires, (t/a's arent!!) I would be very happy with a high 13/low 14 with your combo, as it is with 3.23.
What's considered a good tire then?
 

33 IMP

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What's considered a good tire then?
As t/a's age, they become hard as a rock, and useless as a drag tire. I would consider any of the drag oriented radials as a good tire: M/T et street, ss or r, Hoosier drag radials, M&H drag radials, Nitto nt555, etc. If it were me..... I'd find a cheap pair of 9x28 stock eliminator slicks (the stock eliminator guys change slicks as soon as they slow down, probably get a hundred more runs on your car) and whatever wheels you like that will fit, (I would probably go with a pair of cheap steelies)and change to the slicks at the track. Of course, if you go to drag radials you won't have to do that. They just won't last forever like t/a's
 

Michael400

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As t/a's age, they become hard as a rock, and useless as a drag tire. I would consider any of the drag oriented radials as a good tire: M/T et street, ss or r, Hoosier drag radials, M&H drag radials, Nitto nt555, etc. If it were me..... I'd find a cheap pair of 9x28 stock eliminator slicks (the stock eliminator guys change slicks as soon as they slow down, probably get a hundred more runs on your car) and whatever wheels you like that will fit, (I would probably go with a pair of cheap steelies)and change to the slicks at the track. Of course, if you go to drag radials you won't have to do that. They just won't last forever like t/a's

Thanks for the information definitely will be switching out these tires once these go bad... definitely need to put the charger on a diet... I'm going to try to find aluminum and replace it
 

Runcharger

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I would expect mid 14's. If you buy some sticky tires, get some shorter ones.
Do you know what your initial timing is? You want as much initial as it will take without pinging to add some snappiness to it. If your T/A's are a bit old rubbing them with gas sometimes will soften them up. The 3.23, tall tire and relatively low stall speed all combine to slow up your ET.
 

Michael400

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I would expect mid 14's. If you buy some sticky tires, get some shorter ones.
Do you know what your initial timing is? You want as much initial as it will take without pinging to add some snappiness to it. If your T/A's are a bit old rubbing them with gas sometimes will soften them up. The 3.23, tall tire and relatively low stall speed all combine to slow up your ET.
I don't know the initial.. I just put a to 35 on the dyno.. my t/a tires are pretty new.. maybe like 5 months or 4 months.. you think a better torque converter would help faster ET??
 
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