440 6-pack overheating

[am3rican]

bought my fixed fan blade at summit... Part No. FLX- 5719 it´s a huge 19 " fan.. with 6 blades

Greetings Juergen

Thanks Juergen. This is what I was looking for.

 

[brasil]

you are welcome

Greetings Juergen

 

[Clay Dots]

yep you have to have a fan shroud and I would upgrade the radiator to, had this same problem on one of mine replaced the radiator and everything was dandy even on the hottest days.. best wishes..

 

[am3rican]

Juergen, Do you know if the Hayden 2765 fan clutch is compatible with the fan you use? I'm a little worried about clearance.

 

[brasil]

The FAN I use now...is a FIXED one.... this type of fan will not work with a fan clutch. The only FAnclucht that works is a FLX-5555 because the total hight is only 3.03 " the clearace from the WP to the radiator is aprox. 3.6 " so the 2765 Hayden should be to " large".. 3.30" afaik...
Greetings Juergen

 

[johns]

have the same "problem" ... my 440 runs great on the "Autobahn" ( highway... ) about 185 °F with a 180 thermostat... FlowcoolerPump, 180 highflow thermostat... New aluminum radiator... Fan shroud ... 7 blade Flex a lite... timing @ idle 10 deg btdc all in @ 38 deg ..
normaly everything should be o.k......... until I slow down...like in city traffic "She " goes up to 210 °F
Tomorrow I will recive a 6 Blade 19 inch race fan with steel blades.... hope this one will cure the problem...

Greetings Juergen

10 degrees at idle is nowhere near enough. Try advancing until the engine revs stop increasing as thats what the engine wants and check what it is there. If your engine turns over and starts fine recurve the distibuter so all in doesnt pass the degrees you had at 38 if it was all ok at that. If it is hard to turn over or kicks back, retard the timing until it is ok to turn over again.

 

[brasil]

....I think I found the reason... I discribed it in the Thread "Flowkooler a good choice?"...

I hope that I am on the right trak now.... I removed some coolant ( 1.5 quarts ) ..and throw away the overflowtank.... because the radiator was so full of water ( up to the very uppest level...) that I was thinking the water couldn´t move well. ... because of the overflowtank, the radiator sucked the water back in the system when the engine cooled down...unfortunatly also until the radiator was 100,1 % full.
I removed some water... ( as I discribt ) and went for a ride...10 mls ... Temp : 180/85 °F ...fine.... then after the ride.... I let the car idle for 6-7 minutes..... Water temp : 190/95 °F FINE !!!!!

Greetings Juergen

P.S I ll keep my fingers crossed...that the problem is resolved now !

 

[am3rican]

The FAN I use now...is a FIXED one.... this type of fan will not work with a fan clutch. The only FAnclucht that works is a FLX-5555 because the total hight is only 3.03 " the clearace from the WP to the radiator is aprox. 3.6 " so the 2765 Hayden should be to " large".. 3.30" afaik...
Greetings Juergen

Maybe because its so late. But I am confused.

I have the Hayden 2765 clutch. Now I need to know what fan to buy. All I need is a steel / alunimum clutch fan part #. I dont want a flex fan (where the blades fix).

 

[brasil]

you need a FLX -5718 in your case, this is a 18 " Fan blade for your fan clutch .

Greetings Juergen

 

[am3rican]

Update on this: the timing is off. The engine has been idling high. I strongly suspect pre-detonation. It has been ticking when hot when off the throttle. Only hear it when engine is hot and when I'm decelerating. Have not noticed while throttle is applied. Will be switching to 20w-50 because I'm thinking it may be be lifter noise too. Going to take it to Herbs parts for tuning.

Carbs were rebuilt by PO few years ago.

 

[mikeyfrano]

don't mess with a 3 core go ahead and get a 4 core its worth the money

 

[cwhubb]

the engine was engineered to run @ 200ish or slightly more in traffic, I wouldnt worry about it. the thermostat number only dictates at what temperature it opens not how cool its going to stay. our cars dont run well at all until they get hot, heat allows proper fuel atomization, allows for correct cylinder pressures, etc, the affect of heat has been engineered into everything to do with the motor, with the right antifreeze mix the boiling temp of the water isnt 212 anymore, its more like 240 degress, of course overheating is detrimental but I wouldnt worry unless it runs 220 and over.

 

[super-bee_ski]

205 for that engine is FINE!

Get a shroud!

 

[am3rican]

Timing from few years ago when engine built. will be taking in to re-check next week.
Intake Opens -1 ATDC
Intake Closes 35 ABDC
Exhaust Opens 48 OBBDC
Exhaust CLoses -4 OBTDC

Duration
Intake 214 deg
Exhaust 224 deg

Lobe lift
Intake .297
Exhaust .311

 

[am3rican]

Update on this: the timing is off. The engine has been idling high. I strongly suspect pre-detonation. It has been ticking when hot when off the throttle. Only hear it when engine is hot and when I'm decelerating. Have not noticed while throttle is applied. Will be switching to 20w-50 because I'm thinking it may be be lifter noise too. Going to take it to Herbs parts for tuning.

Carbs were rebuilt by PO few years ago.

I guess another update. I pulled the spark plug for #8 and there is no sign of pre-ignition or detonation on the plugs at all. It appears to be wearing normal. I would have checked all the other plugs but cant find my gapping tool so this will have to wait until the morning. Pretty sure timing is okay.

Regarding overheating, the fan clutch and fixed blade fan appears to have solved the problem. I am bumping the fan from the 18 inch to the 17 inch so that I can fit the fan shroud on without any clearance issues.

 

[coloradodave]

The 'timing' you're showing (post 34) is actually the specifications for your camshaft. These show at what degree (out of 360*, and in relationship to top dead center (TDC)) your cam opens and closes the valves, as well as how much they open. They are not something that you normally 'adjust' after the engine is built.
Ignition timing is another subject, and is adjusted as part of a tune-up, typically expressed as 'so many degrees before top dead center'. There is initial timing and total timing as well as timing added by a vacuum advance unit. Neat stuff to learn if you're interested in getting the most from your ride.

 

[am3rican]

The 'timing' you're showing (post 34) is actually the specifications for your camshaft. These show at what degree (out of 360*, and in relationship to top dead center (TDC)) your cam opens and closes the valves, as well as how much they open. They are not something that you normally 'adjust' after the engine is built.
Ignition timing is another subject, and is adjusted as part of a tune-up, typically expressed as 'so many degrees before top dead center'. There is initial timing and total timing as well as timing added by a vacuum advance unit. Neat stuff to learn if you're interested in getting the most from your ride.

Thanks for sharing that. I was reading that 'timing' sheet I had and was wondering why it didn't make sense. I'll have to read up on it. Tbh, adjusting the timing is one thing I am not comfortable doing only because of the perceived level of difficulty. Got any good resources that'll help me get over this discomfort?