440/727 Parts Car vs Buying 440 Separately

[Kern Dog]

You'd be better off if you found a 75-78 Cordoba or Charger. You're going to need either a big block K frame or conversion motor mounts, so one of those would be perfect for you. There's a better chance of finding a 400 car, but everything will fit a 440.

Mark

No.
The 70-72 K member is the same for LA and B/RB engines. The mounting brackets are different though. The 73 and later cars used a totally different K member and mounts.

 

[Master Gunner]

Sorry, my bad. I thought he said 73. That said, he'd still be better off sticking to a B body if he wanted to swap disk brakes, and some of the other suspension pieces like an axle, if he has a 8.25 in the car now. Lot of stuff will swap from the latter B bodies.

Mark

 

[SlinktRR]

Yes but you won't find a b body for 1500 dollars complete with big block drivetrain.

I would get the parts car 74 just to avoid pulley hell. I have been there. Yes the accessory brackets and pulleys are repopped but try calling the parts line at bouchillon about them and they will give you hell for just asking about buying them lol. I still remember those conversations when I was trying to piece together a 383 and no accessories with it.

 

[OKDart]

If you're on a budget, the '74 Chrysler would be the way to go, as long as you have room at your place. But you'd have to hack in the Chryslers radiator to your Charger due to the water pump inlet on the wrong side (or buy one that would fit your Charger). You'd also have to get a different kickdown setup as the one from the Chrysler will hit your firewall. 66-72 big block mounts/brackets are easy to find these days and not very expensive. The 727 shouldn't need any mods except to shorten the driveshaft. I think 904 uses a different yoke, so you'd need the use the yoke (or whole driveshaft) from the the Chrysler. Then there's the exhaust, the manifolds should work, but I personally wouldn't use them. I'm sure the head pipes will be different. I'd budget for a new exhaust system.

But, IMO, the bulky front accessories on the later engines look out of place on the earlier cars. I would be on the lookout for period correct front accessories, but the ones from the Chrysler will work fine until you're ready to swap. And when you do swap, you need to take the timing cover off and get rid of the nylon coated timing gears.

You can also put your 318/904 in the Chrysler and sell it as a running/driving car! I did a swap like that on a 1968 Chrysler 300 and a 1968 Dodge Coronet.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

I don't believe any of the disc brake parts interchange off the c bodies onto a b..

Get your pulleys from 440 source, brackets for power steering. Oil pan also.
Motor mounts should be available. Get the best usable short block you can and buy parts if you can't find the right era car.
Whole car is a much better find 68-71 vintage. Even if it has a 383 and doesn't run. All the parts bolt on to a 440. Unlikely you will find hp manifolds so just get headers.
A big bonus for a 68-70 c body the 8 3/4 will be a nice additon for your 71. 74 c rear doesn't fit much.
A 74 c body needs to be cheap or its likely not worth it. Maybe if it's a low mileage engine. Bolt in transmission is about the only gain on a car vs rv engine.

 

[1967coronet]

The 74 C body and the motor home engines will have similar compression.
If your hunting a use it as is long block the RV engines .most times have lower miles and better maintance.
If you going to do a rebuild get the c body scrap price is up right now, strip it and get the carcass hauled in and get a few bucks back.
There are other things to consider like swapping 14 for 15" steel wheels , all the ignition parts, like mentioned radiator and shroud, locks and keys, lap belts if good.

 

[joemish]

Hello All,

I am interested in converting my 71 Charger 318/904 car to a 440/727.

I am looking at either buying a parts car complete with a 440 and 727 and all original accessories, or buying a 440 and 727 by themselves not in a car.

For example, I have found a 1974 Chrysler New Yorker for $1500 with a supposedly running 440 and 727 transmission with all original belt drive, accessories, etc. I would think that having a complete parts car to draw needed parts from would be beneficial and help save money, but the car would have a low compression 440. I could also sell parts off the car and maybe the body to recuperate some of my expenses. (Hopefully)

Or, I have found RV/later year 440s with 727 transmissions for around $600-$800 (engine and transmission both - $600 seemed like an unusually good price here in CA) with most of the accessories and presumed to be running. Out the vehicle.

Or, I can get a bare block with or without a crank, pistons, oil pan, harmonic balancer for around $150-$300. No transmission included with this option.

I have never done an engine swap before, and I know many of you have with countless avenues of doing so.

What option(s) would you guys recommend/not recommend?

Any other good options that I did not list?

Please point out any dumb thoughts/ideas in this post, as I am trying to learn.

Thanks everyone!

Foe example the 1974 Chrysler New Yorker is NOT a HP motor. it is a low economical powered engine.

 

[joemish]

Hello All,

I am interested in converting my 71 Charger 318/904 car to a 440/727.

I am looking at either buying a parts car complete with a 440 and 727 and all original accessories, or buying a 440 and 727 by themselves not in a car.

For example, I have found a 1974 Chrysler New Yorker for $1500 with a supposedly running 440 and 727 transmission with all original belt drive, accessories, etc. I would think that having a complete parts car to draw needed parts from would be beneficial and help save money, but the car would have a low compression 440. I could also sell parts off the car and maybe the body to recuperate some of my expenses. (Hopefully)

Or, I have found RV/later year 440s with 727 transmissions for around $600-$800 (engine and transmission both - $600 seemed like an unusually good price here in CA) with most of the accessories and presumed to be running. Out the vehicle.

Or, I can get a bare block with or without a crank, pistons, oil pan, harmonic balancer for around $150-$300. No transmission included with this option.

I have never done an engine swap before, and I know many of you have with countless avenues of doing so.

What option(s) would you guys recommend/not recommend?

Any other good options that I did not list?

Please point out any dumb thoughts/ideas in this post, as I am trying to learn.

Thanks everyone!

I would buy a Crate 360 Motor, they have 410 HP and would drop right in your car as is