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440 Build Dyno Results

great thread
I have a couple of comments on your articles- I'll write them up maybe while watching the dodgers this afternoon
your method is certainly easier than milling off the stock and building replacement stands
do you have cup type adjusters available?
Are you running an auto or 4 speed? I debated going with a larger double pumper but went with the 800cfm avs Edelbrock to keep it street friendly, mine is an auto. Highway mileage is 10.6 mpg so I doubt I could do much worse with a mechanical secondaries.
I have a 4 speed. I doubt I’ll get anything close to double digit mileage. I don’t have the vacuum advance on my distributor. And 60 mph is 3k rpm for me.
Anyone know of a shop near West Virginia that can dyno my engine? Almost done with my 505 everyone around here are mostly Chevy people
Nice job. Similar build to my 493 but i have less cam then you. Be interesting to compare results though as i have the 74cc heads.

My buddy just completed a dyno run on his new 505 stroker a week or so ago. 440 Source rotating assembly, 590ish lift solid Comp Cam. 1.6 Harland sharp, Stock six pack carbs / intake and trick flow 240 heads.

619HP at 6000 rpm / 650 ft lb at 4500 rpm . Pump fuel and idles nice at 750. My god it sounds mean at idle! Went for a spin and when the outboards kick in it is frightening with the 4 speed (yes its an 18 spline /dana 60) Cant wait to see what it will do on the track.
This build, including the 6bbl, and those power numbers is what I've been writing about for (too long) over a year.
Please check your conversation inbox.
Spock claims illogical
with a too tall valve for the stock or iron rocker or a roller tip the tip of the rocker is angled up when the valve is closed
This gives you less ratio when you have the least spring pressure
at open you have the most spring pressure and even more as the rocker is now closer to tangent where you have the most leverage (ratio)
while the cam is trying to slow down acceleration to go over to the nose the non optimized geometry is increasing ratio - exactly the opposite of what is required or desired
so we end up with valve float or hyd lifter pump up and compensate with stronger valve springs than would be necessary
There are issues- they're called losers
your comments do not make geometrical or mechanical sense
you do end up with more lift as the tangent is closer to max lift- but the trade off is not a good one
That and a lot of roller rockers are designed way wrong- just look at the angle of the adjustment screws and the pushtods
remember the LA valvetrain was designed for about .430 -450 lift- you go past .450 even .500 you can benefit by making adjustments as the valve closed position does not change- the change is all on the valve open side- the stock rocker ends up angling down (lash caps can help) ( and roller rockers are still way off but not off as much as without increased lift)
"Frankly, it simply amazes how tolerant the Mopar rocker shaft system is considering the amount of other really really dumb stuff people do with their valve train set ups and they still live." you got that right that's why the other guys pay extra for shafts
What would you consider ideal rocker arms for a .509" 292 hydraulic purple stripe cam? I'm using stock Mopar rocker arms. What about when I install TF 240s? A bigger cam is likely then.
Seems like most people use Harland Sharp or Crane.
This is a great read as I’m planning my 500+ hp build now and getting ideas of what works and what I need to do with the experience of you guys who have built many engines. I too would like to know what the “ correct “ rocker is to use. Also, at which point would someone need to upgrade the oil system? At 500-550hp I should be able to just run a hv pump and stock pickup or do I need to go 1/2”?
Dyno's don't "vary" much at all.... only the operator imputs & factors that the Dyno's calculate with changes.

From the subject Dyno Sheets.... the Camshaft hits a wall just above 5,000 rpm, some Head/Port matching would help because there is always a Huge port mis alignment when mating the RPM Intake with the RPM Heads, seems EDDY can't fit THEIR Intake to THEIR own Heads.... but nonetheless the Cam is pretty much all done.

Go Look.... slide the Intake "ahead" so the Ports 1 & 3 align with the Head and 6 & 8 will be blocking 1/4 of the Port.... slide backwards and others go outa whack..... RIDICULOUS !
Gotta "FIT" the rpm Intake to the Heads while they are installed on the particular Block they'll be used on because THAT changes as well.... then port in a good 2-3" to "match" as best you can and sometimes stuff gets thin or just plain goes "off in space" but still much better than as is.
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