440 heating only on highway speeds

[josephqatarcarguy]

i just got a 69 superbee done with the same symptoms .... just think its too hot of a weather to drive a 440 under 220 temps ...

 

[WileE]

Didn't read all the posts but a high probability that your fans are acting like a baffle at highway speeds. Get rid of them & use a factory clutch fan. Also, w/pump should be overdriven 10-20%.

More info here: www.stewartcomponents.com

Agreed, I already mentioned that in #4.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Didn't read all the posts but a high probability that your fans are acting like a baffle at highway speeds. Get rid of them & use a factory clutch fan. Also, w/pump should be overdriven 10-20%.

More info here: www.stewartcomponents.com

That really depends on the design of the electric fan....Lately I've been looking at these for a project I'm working on... Less blockage than a clutch fan, close tolerance between the fan blade and the shroud, shroud effectively seals to the radiator core... And high CFM...

18" Brushless Fan Kit

 

[RJRENTON]

If the water flow is to fast it will not release its heat
Try driving at lower speed and gear so motor is at 3000 and see if same result if so add a restrictor or lower flow water pump

ABSOLUTELY AND TOTALLY INCORRECT B.S. ANSWER.......the higher the velocity of the coolant will move more heat.....in terms of Btu/gallon per minute (gpm) or whatever quantity you choose....you've obviously never heard of thermodynamics......the science of heat transfer.......
BOB RENTON

 

[Dan64]

Don't know what style shroud you have with the fans but if there aren't any "air doors" ( basically holes with rubber flaps over them) the shrouds can act as a air dam at speed , not allowing enough air to flow through the radiator. This happens more with sheet metal shrouds that cover the whole back of the radiator.

 

[68-500]

ABSOLUTELY AND TOTALLY INCORRECT B.S. ANSWER.......the higher the velocity of the coolant will move more heat.....in terms of Btu/gallon per minute (gpm) or whatever quantity you choose....you've obviously never heard of thermodynamics......the science of heat transfer.......
BOB RENTON

Ive often questioned the you can move the coolant though the radiator to fast theory.

 

[bm02tj]

It happens and I have only seen it one time

 

[Sixpactogo]

Normally the overheating problem comes up in stop and go traffic. If you are overheating at highway speeds, I'm wondering if you are missing the hood-core support seal allowing the air to not be forced thru the radiator.

 

[RJRENTON]

Ive often questioned the you can move the coolant though the radiator to fast theory.

Who's theory is it?? Where did you learn of this "theory"...Or is it just hearsay from some "buddy"? What about the coolant that remains in the block and heads ...getting hotter and hotter......the cooling system is a product of 2 heat exchanger systems: block/heads plus radiator plus water pump being the common component. The other most important factor is surface area.....the more area to collect heat (block/heads) the more surface area to dissipated the heat ( radiator) and the circulated volume (gpm) at a specific velocity (ft/sec) AND THE SPECIFIC HEAT CHARACTERISTICS OF THE COOLANT (rate at which the coolant adsorbs/absorbes and releases heat)......to be specifics.....numbers must be disclosed.....temperature in/out of the coolant and air temperature in/out of the radiator ........ as mentioned, thermodynamics is an exact science of heat transfer......
BOB RENTON

 

[68-500]

Who's theory is it?? Where did you learn of this "theory"...Or is it just hearsay from some "buddy"? What about the coolant that remains in the block and heads ...getting hotter and hotter......the cooling system is a product of 2 heat exchanger systems: block/heads plus radiator plus water pump being the common component. The other most important factor is surface area.....the more area to collect heat (block/heads) the more surface area to dissipated the heat ( radiator) and the circulated volume (gpm) at a specific velocity (ft/sec) AND THE SPECIFIC HEAT CHARACTERISTICS OF THE COOLANT (rate at which the coolant adsorbs/absorbes and releases heat)......to be specifics.....numbers must be disclosed.....temperature in/out of the coolant and air temperature in/out of the radiator ........ as mentioned, thermodynamics is an exact science of heat transfer......
BOB RENTON

Oh most definitely hearsay. I do know there isnt much bending of thermodynamics. But Im also not educated enough in them to draw a conclusion that you can or can’t move coolant to fast though a heat exchanger.

 

[RJRENTON]

Oh most definitely hearsay. I do know there isnt much bending of thermodynamics. But Im also not educated enough in them to draw a conclusion that you can or can’t move coolant to fast though a heat exchanger.

I suggest that you Google thermodynamics and their associated laws and precepts. Not sure if you've done the appropriate calculations but a fundamental knowledge may help you understand better. There a re 3 basic heat exchanger systems....gas to gas, gas to liquid and liquid to liquid. Each type requires a slightly different analysis. Automotive cooling systems are basic gas to liquid systems driven by the common circulation device (water pump operating at a variable RPM, which yields variable volume).
It all comes down to the basic fundamental: Q = M x Cp x delta T. Where Q = heat (in Btu/hr...convert HP to Btus per unit of time) x Cp (specific heat characteristics of the heat transfer media, both liquid and air) x delta Temperature (of both the in/out temperatures and volume of coolant circulated AND AIR, yes, air is a fluid, of the radiators component). It's not total function of the advertised total HP of the engine but only the waste heat.....80% of the heat, or energy generated by the engine motivates or propels the vehicle the balance (20%) is what the cooling system sees. Most vendors say, my system can cool a xxxx hp engine without any of the above information supplied. Satisfy your own curiosity....research the subject for a better understanding of thermodynamics.......just my opinion of course.....others will say too much info and just believe the vendor........or their buddy.......
BOB RENTON

 

[68-500]

Where does time spent in the exchangers come into play? Or does it even matter, as long as it is moved though the exchangers? The cylinder heads and cylinder walls are exchangers as much as the radiator I presume.

 

[Cranky]

Some years back my old 95 Dakota started over heating with the 2 core small tube factory radiator. A buddy gave me a used single but way bigger tubes and that thing is still in the truck and running too cool even in 100+ degree weather here in Texas sitting in traffic with the AC on full. The 'new' old single big core radiator came to me as an aftermarket aluminum that came out of a wrecked Dakota and is now much older than the original brass/copper radiator was when I pulled it out. I've posted before about 4 core (and even 3 core) radiators do not do a very good job and researched it. A large tube 2 core usually beats all the others with more rows of tubes. I'm convinced.

 

[hemifiedbird]

Not sure what pump your running. The Mopar aluminum HP pump the impeller fins are not correct. When you are running your engine the pump fins are bent in a way that they are not moving the coolant. The old cast iron pump the fins are totally opposite of the aluminum pump and moves coolant. Moving coolant gives you lower temps. Also you could install a 160 degree thermostat.

 

[RJRENTON]

Not sure what pump your running. The Mopar aluminum HP pump the impeller fins are not correct. When you are running your engine the pump fins are bent in a way that they are not moving the coolant. The old cast iron pump the fins are totally opposite of the aluminum pump and moves coolant. Moving coolant gives you lower temps. Also you could install a 160 degree thermostat.

The only pump to consider is: FLOWKOOLER. The impeller is designed to eliminate cavitation at high RPM and still provide high volume/velocity at lower RPM for maximum cooling.....DO NOT USE A 160° F thermostat for anything....180° F minimum tstat......remember, the high the velocity the cooling circulates, the more heat, in terms of Btu/Hr, is transferred......
BOB RENTON

 

[hemifiedbird]

The only pump to consider is: FLOWKOOLER. The impeller is designed to eliminate cavitation at high RPM and still provide high volume/velocity at lower RPM for maximum cooling.....DO NOT USE A 160° F thermostat for anything....180° F minimum tstat......remember, the high the velocity the cooling circulates, the more heat, in terms of Btu/Hr, is transferred......
BOB RENTON

I’ve run Hemi’s, 440s 383s 340s since the early 70s. 3 core rad cast water pump from back in the day and 160 thermostat. Never had a cooling problem in 50 years of building my cars

 

[RJRENTON]

I’ve run Hemi’s, 440s 383s 340s since the early 70s. 3 core rad cast water pump from back in the day and 160 thermostat. Never had a cooling problem in 50 years of building my cars

You've been lucky.....thus far.....I use a Flowkooler pump, with the GlenRay repro max cooling 3 tube brass radiator, # 2998956, torque drive clutch and shroud with Hemi aluminum 7 blade fan (steeper pitch angle than steel fan), and water pump sheave, driving the pump ~ 20% faster than stock sheave. I have no issues either.....my car is: RS23V0A****** 1970 GTX an original car......just my thoughts........fyi.....
BOB RENTON

 

[josephqatarcarguy]

Some years back my old 95 Dakota started over heating with the 2 core small tube factory radiator. A buddy gave me a used single but way bigger tubes and that thing is still in the truck and running too cool even in 100+ degree weather here in Texas sitting in traffic with the AC on full. The 'new' old single big core radiator came to me as an aftermarket aluminum that came out of a wrecked Dakota and is now much older than the original brass/copper radiator was when I pulled it out. I've posted before about 4 core (and even 3 core) radiators do not do a very good job and researched it. A large tube 2 core usually beats all the others with more rows of tubes. I'm convinced.

I think its just the weather here mate , took her for a spin last afternoon when weather here was like 114f and temps on the car hit 220 .... didnt go over and only at constant 3k rpms and AC on .... then took her out in the evening when weather was a bit more cool- 104f and she ran 200-210 all evening long with AC

 

[josephqatarcarguy]

You've been lucky.....thus far.....I use a Flowkooler pump, with the GlenRay repro max cooling 3 tube brass radiator, # 2998956, torque drive clutch and shroud with Hemi aluminum 7 blade fan (steeper pitch angle than steel fan), and water pump sheave, driving the pump ~ 20% faster than stock sheave. I have no issues either.....my car is: RS23V0A****** 1970 GTX an original car......just my thoughts........fyi.....
BOB RENTON

i too run a flowkooler pump and a 180 thermostat on all cars i build here in qatar , if you go to my webpage you can check out cars ive built here

www.qatarcarguys.com

 

[WileE]

i too run a flowkooler pump and a 180 thermostat on all cars i build here in qatar , if you go to my webpage you can check out cars ive built here

www.qatarcarguys.com

Would you consider a move to Antarctica ? A little cooler climate than your area.