440 overheating help

Heating, Cooling & AC

  1. yannick47

    yannick47 Well-Known Member

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    my 440 hits 210-220 while driving.i can idle forever and the temp wont go past 180 but if i start moving the temps climb up??highway around town doesn't matter
    if i shut the car down at 215 temps about after 5 mins the temp gauge reads 230??
    running down here in qatar at 106 °F
    440 engine edelbrock rpm heads lunati 60304 cam initial timing 14 degrees(i think) 28" 3 row stock radiator 180 thermostat dual electric fans which come on at 175°F
    cars got a/c

    what could be wrong?
     
  2. black64

    black64 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    Bottom rad hose could be closing off from suction of water pump at higher speed. Does lower hose have a spring inside to prevent collapse?
     
  3. yannick47

    yannick47 Well-Known Member

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    yes new hoses on top and bottom ..both with springs
     
  4. Bolt-Action

    Bolt-Action Well-Known Member

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    It's normal for a vehicle's temp to climb slightly after its shut off.

    Are you using the correct fan for your 440's rotation?
     
  5. yannick47

    yannick47 Well-Known Member

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    there are dual electric fans which flow 3500cfm

     
  6. Bolt-Action

    Bolt-Action Well-Known Member

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    Are they pushing or pulling?
     
  7. krowbar

    krowbar Well-Known Member

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    You're in Qatar that's the problem...No jk. Do you have the fans turning the correct way when they come on? If they are turning the wrong way it can cool at idle, but at road speed the fans would be pushing the air away from the rad. not through it.
     
  8. 69a100

    69a100 Well-Known Member

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    Do you mean 28" or 26" radiator? If it truly is a 28" rad, you shouldn't have any problems at all with cooling. Sounds to me like there's a flow problem through the radiator, may need a good flushing out. Is there a fan shroud on the car?
     
  9. Hemirunner

    Hemirunner Well-Known Member

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    It's an airflow issue as indicated by the highway only issue. The dual electrics are probably blocking more air than they move. Those things are 80's car show technology and never have worked well. Go to a stock style 7 blade fan/clutch combo with a shroud.
     
  10. yannick47

    yannick47 Well-Known Member

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    2 electric fans with a shroud and its pulling air..ive got another 16" electric fan as a pusher in front of the condenser
    and yes a 28"factory radiator
    before i change to a 7 blade fan/clutch combo any less expensive suggestions?
     
  11. Sweet5ltr

    Sweet5ltr Well-Known Member

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    I purchased a jag clutch and a universal clutch fan. 160° thermostat may help to. My mopar runs 165-180 while driving, May climb to 190° @ idle on hot summer days in Florida. I run a pusher electric as well, but it mainly is just a backup and hardly ever ran. No shroud on mine btw. Too much total timing could be an issue. Lots of potential gremlins.
     
  12. Budnicks

    Budnicks You Can Just Thank Me Later FBBO Gold Member

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    Good luck I hope some of my suggestios help

    Maybe try Evans Waterless Engine coolant... It aint cheap @ something like $32 a gal. & you will need more than 2 gal.'s, it won't boil over unless you have a thermal melt down, helps drops temps considerably because of fluid friction dynamics, the military uses it supposedly also... Also driving around in ambient temps like 106* F in the "dry Qatar desert heat", It will always be hard to keep it cool !!, especially if it's modified... IMHFO there's absolutely nothing wrong with running electric fans, I do & I don't have any overheating problems at all "ever", I live in Calif. where it gets to 110* in the summer & average 90*-95*, it's not just old technology either, as long as they are supplying enough cfm of air flow... But too me it kind of sound like a fluid flow issue & not an air flow issue, because it's happening at speed, not at idle... does it have headers ?? maybe some header wrap... is the hood sealed to the radiator support ??, making sure all the air goes thru the radiator & not all around it, if not replace the seal.... Maybe you could also add a chin spoiler, looks pretty good too {69 Camaro front chin spoiler, $39 from Summit Racing works very well, on many 60's-70's B-Bodies} to help re-direct the air that would normally go under the car, thru the radiator & front end instead of away from it... Good luck & thank you for your service overseas...
     
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    • Hemirunner

      Hemirunner Well-Known Member

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      Think about what you just said. You have a sandwhich of Two electric puller fans/radiator/condensor/pusher fan and you have an air flow problem. It's a wonder that any air is getting through those fans. Take all the electric crap off and take it for a spin on the highway and watch the temp stay down.
       
    • furyus

      furyus Well-Known Member

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      JMO, but every time I see an overheating complaint, there's an electric fan in there somewhere. I know it isn't cheap, but I would put on the biggest fan with the most blades that will fit while using a fan shroud. I don't use a clutch, and the rad is a 26' from a 69 RR and I have no issues.
       
    • Budnicks

      Budnicks You Can Just Thank Me Later FBBO Gold Member

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      Maybe the radiator is full of bugs &/or sand in the fins, possibly too...
       
    • Hemirunner

      Hemirunner Well-Known Member

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      Could very well be and the condensor as well.... probably some white shiek robe in there too I suppose lol....who knows over there. They might have flying sand bugs the size of a shoe!
       
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      • bigblock

        bigblock Well-Known Member

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        Take all the fans off the car. Fire it up and drive 60 mph or 120 kph (lol) and see what happens.
         
      • yannick47

        yannick47 Well-Known Member

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        ordered a new champion aluminium radiator ... hopefully it gets better
        another thing i wanted to clear out is after my oil change there was a bit a valve train noise(on both sides of the engine)almost like the rockers were hitting the valve cover??could this be causing it??
        but the cars runs very strong starts right up burns my 295s every time no misses etc

        http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/en_1130.html?Opendocument&land=DE
         
      • krowbar

        krowbar Well-Known Member

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        What kind of oil pressure gauge do you have and what's the psi.
         
      • yannick47

        yannick47 Well-Known Member

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        sorted out the valve train noise..took the car to the garage today and turned out to be the distributor was set a bit retarded ...he turned the distributor a bit to increase timing and bang the noise just went away.

        HOW MUCH DAMAGE WOULD I HAVE CASED MY ENGINE?I RAN WITH THIS NOISE(which sounded like a sewing machine quite loud) FOR ABOUT 200 MILES:angryfire::angryfire::angryfire::angryfire:

        and oil pressure was always
        30 psi at idle(210 temperature) and 65-75 while cruising
        autometer gauge
         
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