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440 Rebuild Advice

CoronetSCO

Well-Known Member
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Sep 5, 2011
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Location
Burlington Ontario
Hello everyone, I have been on here for a bit now but I will confess my sins and promise to correct the errors of my ways and post a few pics soon! I have read a fair number of threads related to my question but nothing exact. What I am doing is rebuilding a 76 440. I have a nice original one owner 68 Coronet I found last year in New Jersey that is a 318 car. I bought a 69 New Yorker for the powertrain but only after buying the 76 440. I have yet to pull the 69 440 as I am hopeing to find someone who can uses the New Yorker instead of crushing it as it's a really solid car and I have no room for it to sit in my yard not drivable (I have it stored now)

So i was looking to do a refresh build on the 76 motor but found that 1 cylinder had a little rust from sitting for many years. I cleaned it up but it's pitted enough that a honeing won't clean it and will require .30 over. So what I was hoping to do is find reasonably priced pistons that can bump my compression. Also, what about the heads? Are they ok to use with a higher piston? I do know the 76's had low compression. I used to work on/ build these 30 yrs ago but it's been a long time in between. I can research it like everyone else but nothing beats the horses mouth and honesty!

I dont need this to be a screamer as I have bigger plans for the 69 motor down the road but would like this to be over the 400hp range. I will be changing the cam, and putting on headers. Any advice/suhgestions are appreciated. Thanks in advance and to everone I have purchased items from and dealt with on here to date. A great site with great People.
 
KB icon pistons I have used twice they seem good, go for ones with smaller valve reliefs and while they are boring your cylinders get the deck honed to bring the pistons upto 0 deck height for some more compression
 
Thanks for the info and tip. Yes i was wondering which option would be better, to do the block and or the heads. It's the 452 heads and I have read they are good when the compression issue is addressed and probably an economical option for this build. I have an old school machine shop guy about 20 minutes away and will be seeing him tomorrow to look at some options etc. Agaian I appreciate the info.
 
Look up my build of my 77 440 in the 12 second combo. Simple, cheap and works!
 
Hey Meep Meep, I had not found yours in my previous searches so I'll give that a read.

Thanks very much!
 
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As promised a few pics of my car. I bought it last year from the nephew of the original owner. A really nice honest guy who also had all of his aunt's original documents in mint condition including the original bill fo sale etc etc. as you can see he even left the classic items in the trunk. A real time machine. I bought the car in New Jersey. Some of you guys may have seen it on the old ride website back when. It shows it's age up close but really incredible for an all original unmolested car. I drove it from New Jersey to my friends house just north of NYC. I returned a week later after US Customs cleared it for export and tuned it up and then drove it home (7.5hrs). In the pic the tarp was precautionary as my Buddy just had his driveway done but it was dry after a week. Again amazing given this car sat for 15yrs except being started and driven a few times around the block.
 
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That's a nice looking car and a good find!
 
Thanks Meep Meep. the inside of the trunk photo is how I got it as well and as you can see really clean for a not ever having been touched. I really don't want to change it much outside of the powertrain upgrades etc. I will be making it my own to enjoy but being an older classic car guy I also like mostly original cars as well. The nice thing is lots of members here have posted their projects and some great ideas to help out.
 
if your using open chamber iron heads (906, 346, 902, 452) then the only logical piston is the kb 184. you'll need the quench dome for unleaded fuel and they will raise the compression form 8:1 to 9.3:1.
 
if your using open chamber iron heads (906, 346, 902, 452) then the only logical piston is the kb 184. you'll need the quench dome for unleaded fuel and they will raise the compression form 8:1 to 9.3:1.

X2. That slight bump in compression will allow him to run a slightly aggressive cam without compromising low end and throttle response.
 
Here is some parts you mat want to consider:
Pistons, Flat top with valve reliefs - The flat top is easier to setup than a quench dome, and allows you to install closed chamber heads if you plan upgrades later on. The valve reliefs are nice to have if your future plans include a larger cam. The KB-237 Hypereutectic is $442 from Summit, but the Speed Pro H143cp Hypereutectic is only $338. I would use the speed pro piston if using a Hypereutectic and use the savings to mill the block for zero deck height. I found that Sealed Power makes a light weight version of the forged L2355 six-pack piston, the number is LW2355F, and Summit lists a set for just $410 which is a pretty good deal for a forged piston. Both the H143CP, and LW2355F pistons use the 1/16" thick rings. The KB-237 and the standard (heavy) L2355 pistons use the 5/16" thick rings.
All the pistons above will get you around 10:1 compression with a 84cc head and 0.040" quench distance.

I don't know your exact intended use, but for a cam kit, I would use the Lunati 1020704LK kit. It specs out as 276/284 advertised, 234/242 @ 0.050" duration, 0.513”/0.533” lift with 110 LSA and cost $229.95.
This is a 3-bolt cam, so you would need to get a 3-bolt timing chain gear set.

If you are looking at performance and not concerned with an original looking engine, the Edelbrock RPM heads will really bump the power up. The 440 source stealth heads are also a consideration and look more like an original head. If you plan to use the iron heads, price out the cost to rebuild them and do a price comparison to the new heads, usually the new heads are not much more money than rebuilding the old heads.

The Edelbrock RPM intake works great, but the height will be an issue unless you have a deep dropped air filter base or a hood scoop. The Holley Street Dominator works and will sit lower.
 
Thanks to all for your tips and advice. I'm really just looking for a solid street runner, nothing crazy with this engine and wanting to run pump gas. I was originally looking at 440 source heads and trying to machine the block height and the usual cam, timing chain and refresh upgrades as the block had little wear. Then i found that one cylinder with a bit of rust and pitted enough to have to be bored out and now I'm having to do that including the new pistons so again everyone's advice is greatly appreciated. I'm not trying to be cheap but looking at this build as sensible and then taking the 69 motor down the road and building that one with much better upgrades.
 
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Not sure if this helps but Im doing a similar build

1967 440 bored .03
forged crank turned .01/.01
Probe SRS Forged Pistons flat top
Comp Cams XE285HL 285/297 0.545 lift
Edelbrock RPM heads 84cc and RPM performer intake
Harland Sharp Rollers 1.6 ratio
750 Holley Carb
Hookers 5209-1 (2" primary)
Going to pro billet MSD and ignition
727 TF with 5 disc clutch upgrade and shift kit
BTI convertor 2000-2500
3.91 gears with 489 casing
Going into a 1967 Plymouth GTX (been over 2 years in the making...trading, saving, begging wife...)
 
Hey 1967 Joe, thanks for taking the time to share your info. The 1967 engines would have had better compression right from stock over the 1976 so you are going to have quite a set up there. And I believe there are more of us on here gathering parts and working with various budgets etc to get the best bang for the buck. Right now I'm shopping around for a machine shop. I found a couple but boy it seems the cost of the work has gone up significantly.
 
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Make sure you put a good bolt in sprag ( over running clutch ) in you 727 it is the most important part in them !
 
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