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These are hard as fudge to bend or I'm a big lame-o. If they leak, I'm gonna pitch'em.
That nicopp is nice stuff, i bought a couple lengths to plumb in a line lock, but i was amazed how expevsive it was! Maybe i just got it at the wrong place.
Bending pre-made lines without damaging the flare is "challenging".. But there are tricks... I make sure the fitting is tightened down against a spare inverted flare fitting, I clamp that spare fitting in a vise & I use a wrench on the flare nut to control where the bending occurs...
I put a round piece of stock in there which seems to have worked ok but not happy with the job. Like I said, if it leaks, I'm gonna pitch it. Thanks! Got any photos?
Photo's? I don't take time for pictures.. I'm happy just to get stuff fixed.. LOL... Heck, just space the carbs up slightly & run the stock lines... Here's the perfect spacer set.... A Vintage Nitrous Oxide Systems plate system.... Okay, how about without the nitrous? https://www.competitionproducts.com...-1_2-2-Hole/productinfo/JOM5080/#.YM2CUy2ZPBI
Those STR manifolds were an interesting piece. I knew a couple guys running them in the mid '70's. They had lots of problems getting them to run decent. Put the 1/2" spacer under each carb. On my OEM 6 BBL manifolds I tried the stock lines & quickly switched to three braided lines going to a fuel block. Still need to get the proper shape ends though.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/164485462783 Imperial-Eastman makes good stuff. 93-FB is the kit for double flare. The thing is, regular 5/16 or 3/8 steel fuel line is hard, so it's a bit more difficult to flare. I'd spend the extra money on the cooper-nickel tubing and start there.
My 45 year old Lisle $15 single flare tool still works great on soft tube, copper & aluminum. Over the years I used it on plain steel. Sometimes worked OK. Sometimes cracked the steel. I'll have to try some of that copper-nickel tubing if I can find it.
I have to take a lot of photos so I can make sure I fix it right. I WILL be happy when this fargin think is fixed! Can't use a spacer, the hood lays right on top of the air cleaner lid as it is - rubbing the paint off. Thanks for the advice. I'm gonna have to find a way...
This car runs GREAT! Has been a pain to start but once running, it runs really well. Just need to put it back together. I may bail and try the Nicopp lines to solve the problem. The OEM six barrel I have has stock lines and it looks like an enormous pain to work with those - the line goes right over the manifold bolt, really. tight spacing. Who comes up with this stuff?
I just bought one at Harbor Freight for $15 in clearance. Figure I have nothing to lose if it sucks. Nicopp will be the alternative if this all goes to crap. Thanks!
Lol, this doesn't look like 65 bucks worth to me but when all else fails similar might be an option for your hood ...... 1968 426 Race Hemi K-Frame Spacers Hurst Dart Barracuda | eBay I'm guessing the 3/8" chevy tri line would run into the front pod even if the spacing was there......... There's this.......... Edelbrock 1288 Triple Deuce Fuel Log Kit | CJ Pony Parts
I've done braided steel with AN fittings on another car and I'd probably do that even though they are kind of a pain before I go to rubber, no offense.
I made up hardline when I had my Sixpack setup. Pain in the butt to do with tight areas and multiple bend angles. I ended up making them later on with AN fittings and braided line. Did not care about oe look.
I am going to have to bail on OE lines, got them to fit up but now it's blocking an inlet and cannot get the rubber hose on with that line there. It's not an OE intake, just thought I'd try to get the lines on. In reality, when I used braided line with AN fittings, it worked a lot better, seemed to get gas to the carb much better. I just bought the Nicopp line, 60" for $15.00 which should be plenty unless I really screw up. If I can't get that to work, I'll bail again and do braided steel and AN. Thanks for the post!
The line for the primary, when I made the hardline, I filled it with sand to bend as one of the bends was close to the nut. What a pain.
Yeah, no shit! Interesting idea, using sand. May not work as well but I bought a set of punches to shove in there. I'm also bailing to Nicopp line.
When I did the sand, I put tape on the ends to keep it contained while bending. The fitting nuts were on then too.
Best (F'ing) video for making (F'ing) AN lines I've ever seen.
Thanks for the advice! Even though it's easier to bend, all I have to say is...A-A-A-A-A-A-A-A-A-A-A-A-A-A-H-H-H-H-H-H-H-H! ! ! ! ! It'll probably leak like a sieve...