440 Six Pack intake, anyone familiar with this setup?

Engine, Trans & Driveline

  1. QOTHL

    QOTHL FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    I couldn't get the stock lines to work, it would block the inlet so I bailed to Nicopp line. What are popsicle sticks?
     
  2. 70chall440

    70chall440 Well-Known Member

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    IMG_1794.JPG
     
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    • 70chall440

      70chall440 Well-Known Member

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      I believe the STR type intakes typically required some mods to get them to flow well. The way to do this is to glue sticks inside to direct the flow.
       
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      Back in the 70's & early 80's Mopar sold technical bulletins covering details about how their engineers would modify parts to maximize the performance... The STR manifolds as delivered had allot of potential but were not optimized to provide equal mixtures to all eight cylinders.... Depending on which lid you used (They offered a single 4bbl & a Sixpack lid... There may have even been a 2x4 lid) Chryslers engineers literally would epoxy popsicle sticks to the lower manifold to form air diversion dams.... This is the Sixpack info...

      IMG_5994.jpg

      IMG_5995.jpg
       
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      • QOTHL

        QOTHL FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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        Glue sticks?
         
      • QOTHL

        QOTHL FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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        Wish my lines were as consistent as those...I had to bend each one the right way to fit in there - the center carb is THE BITCH FROM HELL! :)
         
      • 70chall440

        70chall440 Well-Known Member

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        Yeah bending the Nicopp tightly can be a pain. I have some high end benders and I even packed the lines with dry sand.
         
      • QOTHL

        QOTHL FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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        Yeah, someone suggested sand - that first bend right behind the nut is so tight, I was afraid the line might split. I'm almost there and have a few spares in case I need to bend another one. My bender is good but that one bend is just a pain. You're lucky you don't have any like that.
         
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        • QOTHL

          QOTHL FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          What's in there? I have no idea. I'd have to take it apart to see if someone did any of that stuff. Other than needing to do that for the race track, not really necessary for me. It's a frickin beast as it is.
           
        • QOTHL

          QOTHL FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          It may not show in this photo but it's running and no leaks. I've been told by someone with a lot of experience that a fuel line is like being pregnant. It either leaks or it doesn't, there is no in between. The rear line and line for the center carb I made worked. The others didn't probably because I couldn't make good enough double flairs. Luckily the "old" line connecting from the center line to the first carb and the connecting line fit up and I was able to use the new stock line to the fuel filter.
          Niccop line is the way to go especially with this setup. Thanks, 70chall440! And thanks to ALL of you who helped me get this car running and were willing to take time to give me advice.


          DSC_1804.jpeg
           
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          • 70chall440

            70chall440 Well-Known Member

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            Congrats glad it worked out.
             
          • Daves69

            Daves69 Well-Known Member

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            A "how to" for the back pocket..............
             
          • ckessel

            ckessel Well-Known Member

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            I have an OLD Blue Point one of those units. I've found over the years that after you got done flaring, you needed to take a file to the backside of the flare and remove the two ridges left from being in the unit. Otherwise its hard to get the unit to stop leaking. I now have one of the hydraulic units from Mastercool.
             
          • QOTHL

            QOTHL FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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            Thanks! I'd like to fix the Niccop lines I made that didn't work.
             
          • QOTHL

            QOTHL FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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            What did you pay for that? Eastwood has them for about $168. I couldn't see spending the money for just that job.
             
          • ckessel

            ckessel Well-Known Member

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            Don't remember, got it off Amazon. It does quite a few different jobs besides inverted flare. The Eastwood one only does inverted, single or bubble[import car brake]. They do have an adaptor set you buy seperatly for AN flare. Eastwood does show another unit, which is like my MC one, for $300. Thats probably around what I paid for the MC unit. For AN flare, especially stainless, I have a unit from Parker Hanifen that has rollers in the cone for the flaring. Looks similar to the Blue Point unit I got back in the 70's from the Snap On dealer at the time.
             
            Last edited: Jul 18, 2021
          • QOTHL

            QOTHL FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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            The vast majority of projects I have will use stock lines I can get already made. This turned out to be something custom so even the Eastwood double flair tool for $160+ would be a lot to spend for just one job, maybe 6 flared lines. Thanks for all of your help!
             
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