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5.7 Crate - which one...

I don't have a running 5.7 with the 6.4 cam but have the pieces. hotroddave on moparts has done it a byunch of times including in trucks and he likes it.
 
I am liking the 6.4L more and more but i need to find out if they all have the provision for a pilot bushing
 
392 vs 6.4 take out prices vary a lot - you might find a truck 6.4 for 3500-4500 but 392's seem to be more 6-7000 as I've tracked off and on, vs $1500-2500 for truck 5.7 +09. I'm turbocharging so I don't need to spend the money on cubes.
392's come with sticks, 6.4's don't, not sure about any differences in cranks
 
furious70 said:
392 vs 6.4 take out prices vary a lot - you might find a truck 6.4 for 3500-4500 but 392's seem to be more 6-7000 as I've tracked off and on, vs $1500-2500 for truck 5.7 +09. I'm turbocharging so I don't need to spend the money on cubes.
392's come with sticks, 6.4's don't, not sure about any differences in cranks
Click to expand...

Some confusing info here... a 6.4 for is a 392 see here

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_Hemi_engine#:~:text=It features the same 4.09,L; 376.3 cu in).

You can buy a brand new 6.4 long block for like $3600

https://www.factorychryslerparts.co...3w3GFo_KkKFrEIZv8bkU6juy5iVe6UZBoCJKEQAvD_BwE

I realize that take out 6.4's cost more than 5.7's and I am not stock on the 6.4, but given a nominal difference I would definitely go that route all things being equal. Of course, just like the 5.7 long block, still have to source all of the parts/pieces but as mentioned, perhaps I could buy an engine or even a whole vehicles for parts that has a wounded motor (speaking about a 5.7 as they are much more available).

Again, the one main issue is that of the pilot bushing. I need to find someone who knows.
 
I understand they are both 6.4L.
You will see the truck engine called a 6.4 or BGE and the car engine called a 392 to denote the difference in the 2 (there are differences in cam, intake, etc)
 
The truck 6.4 is a very different engine then the car one, you want the car one.
The truck 6.4 is built VERY STRONG, (think towing at max load all day every day)but its like 410/420hp, VS the car's 485HP.
Guys LOVE the BGE truck engine as a starting point for building a boosted engine, as the block is also stronger.
For your build I would go with the car engine for sure, nothing wrong with the truck 6.4 they are just differ from what you are after.
 
So it looks like auto 5.7 and 6.4 cranks are drilled for a pilot bushing, BUT they have a auto bushing pressed in the end, once this is removed, the pilot bushing, for manual trans can be put in.
I have heard of guys removing the automatic hub/ring with a die grinder and chisel, or welding on it to shrink it, let it cool it will fall ring out.
 
More awesome information across the board, thanks all. I promise it will not be posted in vein... lol I have a lot on my plate right now and cannot work on any cars but I will hopefully get through it soon. I need to get that wagon done and gone before I can begin on the 71. I am however putting my 70 RR on the back burner until I get the 71 done bc it is a lot closer than the RR (the RR is heavy fab work).
 
Man I am really looking forward to this build!!!
I like the kits that Indy sell that hide the coils, and have the black valve covers, make it look similar to the gen 2!

Mancini Racing has engine mount kits for aprox $150, they allow use of stock k frame and engine mounts, they require TTi headers.
Schumacher creative services is among some other options.
 
I bought my mounts and oil pan from Bouchilon. Them, Mancini, and Holley all have a lot of stuff now and you should price match components you need, some are cheaper on different parts.
https://www.bouchillonperformance.com/inc/sdetail/669/740
For whatever reason I had to grind on the driver's side mount to fit my K member, though I've since decided I'm going to use Moroso solid bottoms instead to reduce flex for the turbo setup.
 
Bad B-rad said:
Man I am really looking forward to this build!!!
I like the kits that Indy sell that hide the coils, and have the black valve covers, make it look similar to the gen 2!

Mancini Racing has engine mount kits for aprox $150, they allow use of stock k frame and engine mounts, they require TTi headers.
Schumacher creative services is among some other options.
Click to expand...

Actually so am I, I just have to get to it. I know there is a lot of options and support out there for these motors and the swap. I am pretty sure I will be running TTI's, don't know if there is much of an option.

Schumacher is no more, they closed up shop.
 
I think its kind of "funny" that Mopar will run ads and sell the 5.7 and 6.4 as crate engines to install in vintage muscle cars, but the engine is set up with an oil pan that wont fit on cars and the straight oil filter. They will gladly sell you all the correct parts, but I feel the ads are misleading a bit.(at least, with Classic industries)
How pissed would you be if you got you new crate engine, and motor mount kit and while it was hanging on the engine lift, you discovered you need a different oil pan. So you order the pan, and filler tube, go to drop it in for second time, and now you find out you need a 45 degree filter adaptor.
I know guys will most likely do their home work before placing the order, but why not at least throw in the correct oil pan and filter adaptor with the engine, as I am sure people will still be having to buy the front accessory drive parts through Mopar.
I was very happy to see when Mopar released the engine controller kit, it really simplified installation.

What type of intake manifold, and fuel delivery system do you plan on going with, on your build? (factory style efi, a carb, or throttle body efi?)
 
Well I guess that is the nature of salesmanship... LOL

I will definitely be running EFI, which style or brand I am not sure. I would be happy to use the factory stuff.
 
Pricing out engines as we speak, man there is a huge difference in the crate motors, I'd love to have a 392 crate motor but at around $9K I don't think I can go there especially since a 5.7 crate is like $6K. Of course the long blocks are a lot closer but then you have to source all the parts. I will have to get a pan and mounts regardless of which why I go but I can buy a lot of stuff for $3K. On the long block side we are talking from $1K to $K depending on who you get them from.
 
Yes it sucks so bad that (Mopar)speed cost so much, but even a 5,7 will be GREAT fun!!!!
If you feel a 6.4 may be worth the money, try a take out engine, you can find them for about the price of a crate 5.7 or a touch less. I am sure these are things you are finding out for yourself.
If you have the time, try and drive a new 6.4 car from a friend or go to dealer and play like you may want to buy.
This may help sway you, into going for the 6.4 or the 5.7 may be plenty.
Although, that was a BAD idea for me, LOL, as I saw how much more power the 6.4 had over the 5.7.
The other thing is with a manual transmission and your 5.7 Hemi , it will be a monster!

I am guilty, as most of us are of getting part/HP fever when building up a project.
In the first project out line you pick just what you need to make it happen, and by the 4th or 5th revised list you have added every fancy, go fast goodie under the sun, and the project tripled in price, and is now out of my budget!!:lol:

If you go by factory HP rating a 440 was 375HP, and the 5.7 gen3 is 383HP, so if looking at it like that, you cant loose!!
My issue with my 69 Charger, is not the HP, its the instant torque, the big blocks have, and that low rpm snap your head back, throttle stab I love.(in stock form the 383 has more torque at lower rpm, then the 5.7 Hemi, even thought the Hemi has about 80 more HP!!)
I am not trying to drive around at 90MPH every where, all day anymore, doing the speed limit on back roads is fine for me now, I just want to get to that limit, quick!!!
 
Bad B-rad said:
Yes it sucks so bad that (Mopar)speed cost so much, but even a 5,7 will be GREAT fun!!!!
If you feel a 6.4 may be worth the money, try a take out engine, you can find them for about the price of a crate 5.7 or a touch less. I am sure these are things you are finding out for yourself.
If you have the time, try and drive a new 6.4 car from a friend or go to dealer and play like you may want to buy.
This may help sway you, into going for the 6.4 or the 5.7 may be plenty.
Although, that was a BAD idea for me, LOL, as I saw how much more power the 6.4 had over the 5.7.
The other thing is with a manual transmission and your 5.7 Hemi , it will be a monster!

I am guilty, as most of us are of getting part/HP fever when building up a project.
In the first project out line you pick just what you need to make it happen, and by the 4th or 5th revised list you have added every fancy, go fast goodie under the sun, and the project tripled in price, and is now out of my budget!!:lol:

If you go by factory HP rating a 440 was 375HP, and the 5.7 gen3 is 383HP, so if looking at it like that, you cant loose!!
My issue with my 69 Charger, is not the HP, its the instant torque, the big blocks have, and that low rpm snap your head back, throttle stab I love.(in stock form the 383 has more torque at lower rpm, then the 5.7 Hemi, even thought the Hemi has about 80 more HP!!)
I am not trying to drive around at 90MPH every where, all day anymore, doing the speed limit on back roads is fine for me now, I just want to get to that limit, quick!!!
Click to expand...

I completely smell what you are stepping in... LOL This is what I call "mission creep" and I get it every time I build a car. It goes something like this

1. I decide what I want or am going to do and I have an idea of budget
2. as I look for the item/s I see other "better" items that don't seem to cost a whole lot more
3. then I find even better items and so on for a while until I realize that what I was first looking at was probably what I needed and what I ended up looking at (and trying to justify) was probably way more than I am willing to pay

In this case, there are a number of issues to consider with cost being pretty high. I am now looking at take out engines on eBay and there are some deals to be had. My only problem there is that many have a 90 return window and there is no way I am going to know whether or not there is a problem in 90 days. I would really like to find something local that I can actually go an talk to someone in person and this might be possible I have not searched around all that hard.

What I am thinking is that I would like to get the drive train basically put together for $10K; thats engine, trans (which I have), bell housing, flywheel, clutch and PP, throw out bearing, mounts, engine harness/ECU and potentially exhaust manifolds (headers) which after some stubby pencil work leaves me about $7K for an engine (give or take). I am sure I can find a 6.4 take out for that and perhaps even new engine if I am in the right place at the right time.

Of course like all things, I have the hunger before I have the resources, so I need to wait until I get done with the current work project and get paid for that before I can seriously look for an engine.
 
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