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62 Fury Dashboard assy removal ?

Yes it can , I replaced the entire dashboard in my '63 dodge , it's a bit of a PITA but not that hard . You start by removing all of the windshield inner reveal moldings (you'll see the screws that hold the upper part of the dash in place), the kick plates (there are two bolts here , one per side, that clamp the lower dash to the "A" post ) , the steering column plastic cover plate. There are the shift cables (If you have an automatic) the speedo cable , the parking brake release handle . Once you remove the steering column retaining bracket you can loosen the steering column jacket retaining clamp (provides a bit of flexibility of the steering column ) Then above the column you'll have the brake pedal pivot bracket with two bolts per side and then there are a few struts coming from the firewall that require removing. Don't forget about the defroster tubes coming from the top of the heater box and the heat control cable going to the water control valve on the heater box. IF you are taking the dash with all the wiring you are best to unplug all the wiring at the bulkhead connector and pull the inside portion down inside the car(don't forget to unplug the wiring that runs to the back of the car from the inside harness on the left side (you'll see i once the Kick panel is removed ) . The steering wheel should also be removed and the jacket covered with thin card board to prevent from getting scratched etc. Once everything is clear push the seat back as far as it will go and lift the dash up over the column and out the passenger side of the car. Work slowly and deliberately ensure all is clear prior to moving it! I think that's all of it....
 
Yes it can , I replaced the entire dashboard in my '63 dodge , it's a bit of a PITA but not that hard . You start by removing all of the windshield inner reveal moldings (you'll see the screws that hold the upper part of the dash in place), the kick plates (there are two bolts here , one per side, that clamp the lower dash to the "A" post ) , the steering column plastic cover plate. There are the shift cables (If you have an automatic) the speedo cable , the parking brake release handle . Once you remove the steering column retaining bracket you can loosen the steering column jacket retaining clamp (provides a bit of flexibility of the steering column ) Then above the column you'll have the brake pedal pivot bracket with two bolts per side and then there are a few struts coming from the firewall that require removing. Don't forget about the defroster tubes coming from the top of the heater box and the heat control cable going to the water control valve on the heater box. IF you are taking the dash with all the wiring you are best to unplug all the wiring at the bulkhead connector and pull the inside portion down inside the car(don't forget to unplug the wiring that runs to the back of the car from the inside harness on the left side (you'll see i once the Kick panel is removed ) . The steering wheel should also be removed and the jacket covered with thin card board to prevent from getting scratched etc. Once everything is clear push the seat back as far as it will go and lift the dash up over the column and out the passenger side of the car. Work slowly and deliberately ensure all is clear prior to moving it! I think that's all of it....
Thank you so much for that information. Some cars are almost impossible to do without removing the windshield first.
 
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I would like to add to this thread: if you already have the front glass out, and the dash removed, Install nutserts in the fastening holes instead of the original hardware. Then use socket head cap screws with flat washers to retain the dash assy. The use of a Bondhus brand, angled "Allen" wrench makes the screw pretty easy to use.
Mike
 
As others have said, it can be done but is a PITA. I reinstalled the dash in my '64 Polara after I had the headliner and windshield replaced. I had to make up a short socket with a 7/16" head screw in it to screw the original bolts in. It took me about a week, and a lot of cussing. Because of the angle of the windshield and bolt pocket in the dash, I could only do short turns with open end wrench.
 
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