63 Electrical Issue

[JPrusinows]

Hey guys,

New issue this weekend that has me baffled at the moment. Just starting the diagnosis so more to follow.

Cold weather caused me to run over add some antifreeze to the mix and start the cars. Forgot to remove the battery tender on one and created a mess somehow cooking the starter relay.

Replaced relay and reattached all wires and now no power entire car and even from the battery to the starter cables.
Removed all wires from relay and now have power back to the cables on the starter.

Looks like maybe something is causing a ground fault beyond the relay?

Here is my plan of attack next weekend.

Check all fuses.

Hook up only the one (small) red wire from the starter to relay and check for power.

If we have power, hook up neutral safety switch and check for power.

If we have power, hook up black solenoid wire and check for power.

If we have power, hook up black solenoid wire and check for power.

Hook up violet and red wire to relay and power disappears problem is beyond relay?


Thoughts and suggestions?


Thank you,

Jeff

 

[khryslerkid]

 

[JPrusinows]

View attachment 1612390

Yes sir, we are exactly the same setup. Neutral Safety top left, ignition switch top right (yellow), horn switch is violet and red with it is ammeter. So far my guess is ammeter or ignition switch? Hope to find out this weekend.

Thank you Kid

 

[khryslerkid]

Yes sir, we are exactly the same setup. Neutral Safety top left, ignition switch top right (yellow), horn switch is violet and red with it is ammeter. So far my guess is ammeter or ignition switch? Hope to find out this weekend.

Thank you Kid

Check the ole bulkhead connector too.

 

[JPrusinows]

Check the ole bulkhead connector too.

Will do. Its crazy. Losing all power with all the wires hooked up, took them off and full voltage at the starter. Ran out of daylight to troubleshoot.

 

[Dave6T4]

'62 and '63 had actual buss bar on firewall connection for black and red ammeter wires. These were a better set up than later Packard connectors and rarely give any trouble. You might have cooked a fusible link. If you still have the original points-type voltage regulator, the fusible link is inside there. If you replace the mechanical regulator with a newer solid state one, you should add a fusible link wire to your circuit for protection. Good luck tracking it down.

 

[khryslerkid]

If you still have the original points-type voltage regulator, the fusible link is inside there. If you replace the mechanical regulator with a newer solid state one, you should add a fusible link wire to your circuit for protection

I didn't know this! Learn something new everyday

 

[JPrusinows]

Success! Always last place you look! LOL. It was the alternator. After studying the schematic for the 100th time the Ammeter gets power from the starter relay then goes to the fuse block and also back to the Alternator. Pulled the Black wire off the alternator no more short and restored all the power and cranked it over. Have to replace the alternator now (pulling and installing the max wedge pulley again) wire it in and maybe the voltage regulator if it ate that too.

B body guys please beware the Battery Tenders when starting. It is not supposed to do anything but it sure as heck does, trust me. Several years ago (before early onset) I remembered burning up a fuseable link by not removing the battery tender. I now have hang tags on every vehicle ignition switch "Check Battery Tender"!

Hope this helps somebody in the future. If you ever lose power or voltage drops to zero when any switch is activated (Dome light, door switch, etc.) check the alternator first.

 

[khryslerkid]

Thanks for the update

I'm not getting the whole thing about using a battery tender. The only time I found the need for one was on my Harley that had a jell battery. It would loose charge in a couple of weeks.

I have an Exide in my '62 and it's a three year battery going on five years. The only time I had a charger on it was during a compression test and I don't think I really would have needed it then. It cranks up fine after a couple of months of sitting unused. I do disconnect the negative cable when it's sitting to prevent any lost amperage through the wiring and any corrosion in any terminals. I figure if the battery is in good shape and you're not loosing any parasitic voltage why use one?