Satans Fury
Well-Known Member
LOL, I already told Chris (guy at Comp) he’d be getting an angry call if the recommended cam is too tame!
Lemme know if/when you’re in town, would love to meet up.
'64 Fury Pro-Touring
- Thread starter carnalsupply
- Start date
Lemme know if/when you’re in town, would love to meet up.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Satans Fury
Well-Known Member
OMFG, I can't believe it's been nearly 2 years since I've worked on the Fury, but family life has settled down quite a bit since I last posted and I decided to SLOWLY work towards finishing the car. To that end I purchased the entire valve-train and have begun piecing it all together, so here's the progress I've made in the last month or so.
The first step was ordering a set of PRW offset rocker arms, specific to the Eddy Victor Max Wedge heads, and boy are those rocker assemblies gorgeous!!! And talk about service, I called PRW in the morning to check on inventory and was told they had the assemblies in stock and if I placed my order that morning they'd ship the same day, so I placed the order via Summit and sure enough the assemblies arrived the next day!
The rockers are 1.6:1 with bushed fulcrums, billet hold downs, roller tips, and hardened steel shafts. The quality and pricing is absolutely out of this world, I would recommend them to anyone in need of a set of rockers.
I quickly mocked up the rocker assemblies to check for fit and they were spot on, but it also showed the Eddy instructions about porting the pushrod holes to be an understatement, there is SO MUCH material that has to be removed, I'm stunned. I thought I'd have to take a bit here, a bit there, but it's obvious I've got a lot of work ahead of me.
The first step was ordering a set of PRW offset rocker arms, specific to the Eddy Victor Max Wedge heads, and boy are those rocker assemblies gorgeous!!! And talk about service, I called PRW in the morning to check on inventory and was told they had the assemblies in stock and if I placed my order that morning they'd ship the same day, so I placed the order via Summit and sure enough the assemblies arrived the next day!
The rockers are 1.6:1 with bushed fulcrums, billet hold downs, roller tips, and hardened steel shafts. The quality and pricing is absolutely out of this world, I would recommend them to anyone in need of a set of rockers.
I quickly mocked up the rocker assemblies to check for fit and they were spot on, but it also showed the Eddy instructions about porting the pushrod holes to be an understatement, there is SO MUCH material that has to be removed, I'm stunned. I thought I'd have to take a bit here, a bit there, but it's obvious I've got a lot of work ahead of me.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Glad to hear from you Bob!
Satans Fury
Well-Known Member
Hey guys, thanks for the well-wishes, it's much appreciated.
I'll be taking the heads back apart this weekend to clean everything, then reassemble them for installation, so I'll get some pix of just how much hogging out I had to do as well as the Smith Brother's pushrods I bought. BTW - if you EVER need pushrods I absolutely recommend Smith Brothers! This is the second time in a couple months I've ordered from them and on both occasions they under promised and WAY over produced, getting me both sets of custom pushrods within 3 days! Absolutely amazing service!
Here are a couple shots of the heads while I was laying out the rockers to see how they fit the heads and if you squint hard enough you'll see the roller tips line up perfectly with the valve guides, so that was a good first step.
While the heads were at the machine shop getting the spring seats cut to height I had them cut down the valve guides for Edelbrock's posi seals, which I have to say, I was impressed with. I've used some seals in the past that really deformed quite a bit as you tried to press them into place but these went on smooth and straight.
I have to run for now but I'll have more pix after the weekend.
Thanks again fellas, truly!
I'll be taking the heads back apart this weekend to clean everything, then reassemble them for installation, so I'll get some pix of just how much hogging out I had to do as well as the Smith Brother's pushrods I bought. BTW - if you EVER need pushrods I absolutely recommend Smith Brothers! This is the second time in a couple months I've ordered from them and on both occasions they under promised and WAY over produced, getting me both sets of custom pushrods within 3 days! Absolutely amazing service!
Here are a couple shots of the heads while I was laying out the rockers to see how they fit the heads and if you squint hard enough you'll see the roller tips line up perfectly with the valve guides, so that was a good first step.
While the heads were at the machine shop getting the spring seats cut to height I had them cut down the valve guides for Edelbrock's posi seals, which I have to say, I was impressed with. I've used some seals in the past that really deformed quite a bit as you tried to press them into place but these went on smooth and straight.
Thanks again fellas, truly!
Satans Fury
Well-Known Member
Here are a few more pix of the heads during the mockup process. The valves are from Hughes (another company that has GREAT service) measuring 2.20" I & 1.81" E, the springs are from Comp and are double w/ dampers rated at about 350lbs open with Comp retainers.
Had I known, when I bought these heads MANY years ago, just how unsupported they are in the aftermarket I probably would have bought something else, even something as simple as the valley tray needed for the Victors can be an issue. Oh well, I've been getting past those hurdles and will keep moving forward.
I hadn't mocked up the entire engine in a LONG time, and never with the complete EFI intake and system, so I figured I'd give it a try. Knowing how many distributors don't fit with aftermarket heads I thought it was a good time to see if Edelbrock's Dual-Sync (supplied with the Pro-Flo 4 system) would fit, I mean, they cast the heads and they make the distributor so you'd think they'd play nice together, but nooooooo! The distributor housing hits in a couple of different areas I had to cut back. If you look at the last picture below you can see just how tight the housing is to the head, and it only gets worse as you move around the back side of the distributor. It all fits now and I'll post some pix after this weekend.
Had I known, when I bought these heads MANY years ago, just how unsupported they are in the aftermarket I probably would have bought something else, even something as simple as the valley tray needed for the Victors can be an issue. Oh well, I've been getting past those hurdles and will keep moving forward.
I hadn't mocked up the entire engine in a LONG time, and never with the complete EFI intake and system, so I figured I'd give it a try. Knowing how many distributors don't fit with aftermarket heads I thought it was a good time to see if Edelbrock's Dual-Sync (supplied with the Pro-Flo 4 system) would fit, I mean, they cast the heads and they make the distributor so you'd think they'd play nice together, but nooooooo! The distributor housing hits in a couple of different areas I had to cut back. If you look at the last picture below you can see just how tight the housing is to the head, and it only gets worse as you move around the back side of the distributor. It all fits now and I'll post some pix after this weekend.
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Satans Fury
Well-Known Member
A little follow-up to a couple things I mentioned before about clearancing for pushrods and the distributor.
The outer exhaust pushrods needed a TON of clearancing but luckily there is more than enough material available.
The center intake pushrods also needed quite a bit but I had to be much more careful here because I was grinding directly on the intake port surface.
A secondary benefit of all this clearancing is increasing oil flow out of the head, which is always a good thing.
This is the part that surprised me, Eddy develops parts that don’t actually work together without modification; the amount of material I had to remove from the head in order for the distributor to fit was kind of startling. Granted, there’s plenty of material so no worries about breaking through anywhere but it’s, IMHO, very poor engineering. Yes, “Victor” series heads are sold as “unfinished” but how the heck does leaving the end of the head SO thick make any sense?
Oh, and I don’t have a picture of it but I have to cut 1/2” - 3/4” off the front of the intake mounting flange because it interferes with the distributor.
No whining about the size of the Max Wedge ports on these heads, these things are massive, but the Pro-Flo 4 intake isn’t made for MW ports so I ported the intake ports beginning about 2” inside the flange, flaring the manifold ports to match the heads. Since this is a port injected setup the intake ports only flow air, so I don’t have to worry about fuel falling out of suspension or turbulence.
For comparison I put a stock 440 intake gasket over a Max Wedge port; the difference is startling.
I wanted to get the entire engine assembled this weekend, run the valves, and button up some other little things but I damaged a valve spring and have to order a replcement. I don’t want to do the final assembly of multiple days so things will have to wait.
More updates to follow.
The outer exhaust pushrods needed a TON of clearancing but luckily there is more than enough material available.
The center intake pushrods also needed quite a bit but I had to be much more careful here because I was grinding directly on the intake port surface.
A secondary benefit of all this clearancing is increasing oil flow out of the head, which is always a good thing.
This is the part that surprised me, Eddy develops parts that don’t actually work together without modification; the amount of material I had to remove from the head in order for the distributor to fit was kind of startling. Granted, there’s plenty of material so no worries about breaking through anywhere but it’s, IMHO, very poor engineering. Yes, “Victor” series heads are sold as “unfinished” but how the heck does leaving the end of the head SO thick make any sense?
Oh, and I don’t have a picture of it but I have to cut 1/2” - 3/4” off the front of the intake mounting flange because it interferes with the distributor.
No whining about the size of the Max Wedge ports on these heads, these things are massive, but the Pro-Flo 4 intake isn’t made for MW ports so I ported the intake ports beginning about 2” inside the flange, flaring the manifold ports to match the heads. Since this is a port injected setup the intake ports only flow air, so I don’t have to worry about fuel falling out of suspension or turbulence.
For comparison I put a stock 440 intake gasket over a Max Wedge port; the difference is startling.
I wanted to get the entire engine assembled this weekend, run the valves, and button up some other little things but I damaged a valve spring and have to order a replcement. I don’t want to do the final assembly of multiple days so things will have to wait.
More updates to follow.
POMONAMISSEL
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is there enough floor on the intake to make a good seal on the gasket . looks very small gasket area . are you sure the floor drops that much from standard to mw ports .
Satans Fury
Well-Known Member
You’re right, it is a tight fit, but it looks like there is more than enough material left to make a good seal; I was concerned about this so tried to pay close attention while modifying.
Satans Fury
Well-Known Member
Spent the day finalizing the rocker shims, adjusting lash, and torquing the heads; real happy with how things are moving along.
My only little complaint with the PRW rocker assembly, and it’s a really minor one, is the quantity of shims supplied to set the side clearance of the rockers, it would be really helpful if PRW increased the quantity of the thinner shims. Small complaint, would just be nice.
Took an hour or so but got the temporary shimming done, pulled the rocker assemblies off, then inserted the shims into their final resting place(s). I then put the pushrods, bolted down the rockers, and ran the valves (.012 intake, .014 exhaust). Never a quick process with shaft rockers…
After getting the rockers shimmed I put the heads in place and torqued them down. Went down through the valley and applied a bit more cam lube (Isky Rev Lube) to all the lobes and will prime the pump and button things up tomorrow.
My only little complaint with the PRW rocker assembly, and it’s a really minor one, is the quantity of shims supplied to set the side clearance of the rockers, it would be really helpful if PRW increased the quantity of the thinner shims. Small complaint, would just be nice.
Took an hour or so but got the temporary shimming done, pulled the rocker assemblies off, then inserted the shims into their final resting place(s). I then put the pushrods, bolted down the rockers, and ran the valves (.012 intake, .014 exhaust). Never a quick process with shaft rockers…
After getting the rockers shimmed I put the heads in place and torqued them down. Went down through the valley and applied a bit more cam lube (Isky Rev Lube) to all the lobes and will prime the pump and button things up tomorrow.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Your rocker/shaft fun reminded me of what I went through when I put together a stroker W2 headed engine for my Duster in the mid 80's. Time consuming is right!
Satans Fury
Well-Known Member
Today was a BIG day, pretty much finished off the engine.
Got the Milodon 7qt pan with external lines secured onto the bottom of the engine, sandwiching the stud girdle between the pan and block. I don’t know of big block Mopars having issues with main web instability bit I figured having it in place was added security.
Notice the bare aluminum circle on the oil pump, that’s a plug we had to TIG into place then mill down because the pumps original configuration wouldn’t allow it to clear the frame/cross-member.
Spun the engine over and dropped the valley pan into place. Like so many other things with these MW heads the valley pan is a special piece, and one I actually like better than the factory piece. Takes a bunch of silicone to seal, and hopefully it’s sealed completely, obviously don’t wanr any leaks.
One thing I REALLY like, and one of those MW specific things, are the 4 bolts running along the head below the intake ports, they hold the valley tray SO securely, no slipping or moving around as well as making for a terrific seal.
With the valley platemin place I dropped on the intake, but if you notice the corner of the intake closes to the camera I forgot to cut off the corner (to make clearance for the distributor. Really pleased with how well the intake lined up with the raised intake ports, no alignment issues at all.
Most of the sensors for the Pro-Flo are nestled on the throttle body, save for the water temp and intake air temp, but I still needed to get my oil pressure and water temp gauge sending units in place.
I thought about running the gauge and PCM water temps from the same sending unit but decided that wasn’t a good idea; manufacturers run seperate senders for gauges and PCM’s so I did too.
Please ignore the alternator and crazy long bolt hanging out of it, they’re just a placeholders until I get a new alternator and 6” bolt.
About this point I noticed the tip of the intake I forgot to cut off :-( You also get a great view of how much material I had to remove from the end of the cylinder head to allow the distributor to drop into place.
Utterly ridiculous Edelbrock engineers allow this kind of crap.
You can see a small bit of the valley pan overhanging the end of the cylinder head, but I now now it doesn’t interfere with the distributor in the least.
Got the Milodon 7qt pan with external lines secured onto the bottom of the engine, sandwiching the stud girdle between the pan and block. I don’t know of big block Mopars having issues with main web instability bit I figured having it in place was added security.
Notice the bare aluminum circle on the oil pump, that’s a plug we had to TIG into place then mill down because the pumps original configuration wouldn’t allow it to clear the frame/cross-member.
Spun the engine over and dropped the valley pan into place. Like so many other things with these MW heads the valley pan is a special piece, and one I actually like better than the factory piece. Takes a bunch of silicone to seal, and hopefully it’s sealed completely, obviously don’t wanr any leaks.
One thing I REALLY like, and one of those MW specific things, are the 4 bolts running along the head below the intake ports, they hold the valley tray SO securely, no slipping or moving around as well as making for a terrific seal.
With the valley platemin place I dropped on the intake, but if you notice the corner of the intake closes to the camera I forgot to cut off the corner (to make clearance for the distributor. Really pleased with how well the intake lined up with the raised intake ports, no alignment issues at all.
Most of the sensors for the Pro-Flo are nestled on the throttle body, save for the water temp and intake air temp, but I still needed to get my oil pressure and water temp gauge sending units in place.
I thought about running the gauge and PCM water temps from the same sending unit but decided that wasn’t a good idea; manufacturers run seperate senders for gauges and PCM’s so I did too.
Please ignore the alternator and crazy long bolt hanging out of it, they’re just a placeholders until I get a new alternator and 6” bolt.
About this point I noticed the tip of the intake I forgot to cut off :-( You also get a great view of how much material I had to remove from the end of the cylinder head to allow the distributor to drop into place.
Utterly ridiculous Edelbrock engineers allow this kind of crap.
You can see a small bit of the valley pan overhanging the end of the cylinder head, but I now now it doesn’t interfere with the distributor in the least.
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Satans Fury
Well-Known Member
On, of, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, then repeat some more!
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Yup. Add in making pushrods too. Used the semi finished set from DC. Measure, cut, ream, press in cups.
Thermostat spacer with EFI sensor port | AR Engineering
Thermostat spacer with EFI sensor port | AR Engineering
Satans Fury
Well-Known Member
Many years ago I used one of their thermostat spacers on my injected Vette and loved it, but with the various ports available om the Mopar pump housing I decided to just stick with those. No, not as slick looking but also less $ spent.
Satans Fury
Well-Known Member
For the rest of today’s fun…
Here’s where I ended up mounting the temp senders; the wiring will run back along the valley tray along with the distributor and coil wiring.
Here’s the test fit of the distributor with everything ready to run, ie, 12 degrees btdc (as specified by Eddy) and #1 pole on the cap pointing directly forward (as is the rotor).
Below you can see just how little clearance there is between the distributor body and cylinder head, but they’re in. You cqn also see I’ve cut off the end of the intake runner rail.
I forgot I had an old pair of spark plug wires laying around and even though they aren’t cut for a Mopar I thought I’d toss them on to experiment. I love my Mopars butnbig block wire routing is horrible looking so I wanted to see what it looked like with the plug wires running under the intake plenum and exiting through the middle window and runningndown and over the valve covers. I really like it and would love your guys thoughts/opinions.
Here’s where I ended up mounting the temp senders; the wiring will run back along the valley tray along with the distributor and coil wiring.
Here’s the test fit of the distributor with everything ready to run, ie, 12 degrees btdc (as specified by Eddy) and #1 pole on the cap pointing directly forward (as is the rotor).
Below you can see just how little clearance there is between the distributor body and cylinder head, but they’re in. You cqn also see I’ve cut off the end of the intake runner rail.
I forgot I had an old pair of spark plug wires laying around and even though they aren’t cut for a Mopar I thought I’d toss them on to experiment. I love my Mopars butnbig block wire routing is horrible looking so I wanted to see what it looked like with the plug wires running under the intake plenum and exiting through the middle window and runningndown and over the valve covers. I really like it and would love your guys thoughts/opinions.
Satans Fury
Well-Known Member
Now for today’s bad news.
When I bought the Fury in what seems like a lifetime ago it showed up wearing a set of “Direct Connection” valve covers. When I was a youngster and bought my first car (‘68 Roadrunner) Direct Connection was THE source for Mopar go-fast goodies, so I’ve wanted nothing more than to get the engine complete and top it off with these VC’s, which are now VERY expensive. But wouldn’t you know it, those gorgeous PRW rockers are too large, extending well up towards the top vc rail, to allow the DC vc’s to fit.
If anyone is interested let me know cuz they’re going up on Ebay shortly
When I bought the Fury in what seems like a lifetime ago it showed up wearing a set of “Direct Connection” valve covers. When I was a youngster and bought my first car (‘68 Roadrunner) Direct Connection was THE source for Mopar go-fast goodies, so I’ve wanted nothing more than to get the engine complete and top it off with these VC’s, which are now VERY expensive. But wouldn’t you know it, those gorgeous PRW rockers are too large, extending well up towards the top vc rail, to allow the DC vc’s to fit.
If anyone is interested let me know cuz they’re going up on Ebay shortly
Looking good Bob, as always. Hoping you have better luck than I did with the Edelbrock valley pan. After the second one cracked I made my own out of 1/4” aluminum. Actually made 2 of them and the spare has now been reinforced. A couple of pics.
Amazing how much those valley plates implode when you put vacuum into the engine.
Amazing how much those valley plates implode when you put vacuum into the engine.
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