66 charger 383 sniper help

[Loulang]

Has anyone installed the Holley sniper on there 66 charger and if so we’re did you run the pink wire? I can’t find anything that stays hot key on and cranking. I’m feeling not so good so maybe my brain ain’t working good today. I’m not that good with electrical but I’m trying

 

[BeepBeepRR]

I ran a wire all the way to the fuse panel and used a piggyback spade on the road runner. You should be able to check the fuses to see whats hot when the key is turned on. And whats hot all the time.

 

[Loulang]

The video I watched says it has to be hot in run and crank

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

What ignition system are running? Still using a ballast resistor?

 

[Loulang]

What ignition system are running? Still using a ballast resistor?

Yes and blaster coil and magnetic pickup

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Yes and blaster coil and magnetic pickup

If you were not running a ballast resistor, simply tie the ing1 and ign2 leads together for voltage in crank and run positions. To keep the ballast by-pass operational, you can add a diode as described in this discussion.

May want to consider running the Hyperspark distributor/ignition with the Sniper, let allows the Sniper control the timing as well and eliminates the ballast resistor.

 

[Loulang]

If you were not running a ballast resistor, simply tie the ing1 and ign2 leads together for voltage in crank and run positions. To keep the ballast by-pass operational, you can add a diode as described in this discussion.

May want to consider running the Hyperspark distributor/ignition with the Sniper, let allows the Sniper control the timing as well and eliminates the ballast resistor.

View attachment 1399190

We’re did you get your throttle and kickdown bracket? I bent mine similar to that

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Throttle bracket is a factory bracket for a ’71 B-block square-bore carb application. TP cable is a Bouchillon Performance kit.

 

[Loulang]

If you were not running a ballast resistor, simply tie the ing1 and ign2 leads together for voltage in crank and run positions. To keep the ballast by-pass operational, you can add a diode as described in this discussion.

May want to consider running the Hyperspark distributor/ignition with the Sniper, let allows the Sniper control the timing as well and eliminates the ballast resistor.

View attachment 1399190

Thanks, I’m trying to figure out if there is a certain diode I have to use. The suggested one on that website when I click on it it’s been removed from Ebay

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Not much current drawn by the Sniper ign sense I’m sure, I’d do a 3amp just for dependability sake. Likely a 1amp would be fine as well for that purpose. No need for a 10amp diode for that application.

 

[Don Frelier]

With any throttle body EFI you definitely want the EFI to control the timing. It needs to be a fully closed loop system to function well.

 

[Carcinogen]

I put a button under the dash on steering column for the starter. Just turn on key and press button for starter.

Also put a latched 12v solenoid on the column keyed start circuit. If you try to use key for the starter, the solenoid shuts down battery power until hidden switch is used to re-activate battery circuit. amazon latching solenoid

Separate starter button saved my buddy's car when his keys were stolen and they could not start car with key and did not know about starter button.

 

[Loulang]

I found these 2 articles and I’m leaning towards the ignition one. I will invest in the hyperspark distributor before spring. I still have about 4 months of winter lol so no rush to drive her just yet

 

[rmchrgr]

Ha, that second screen shot of the ignition switch is mine. That’s really the best (cleanest) way to do it. No need for the ballast resistor after doing that.

Also, as suggested already, get the Hyperspark ignition system (distributor, ignition box and coil) so the ECU can control the timing. The Sniper will work SOOOO much better if you’re not handicapping it by using a conventional distributor.

 

[threewood]

I'm running Pertronix III ignition with their coil, bypassed the ballast (gutted the back and ran a #10 wire) and soldered the pink wire right into the factory wire.